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Thread: Hobart 120

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    San Francisco Bay Area (California)
    Posts
    12

    Hobart 120

    Friends,

    My neighbor brought over a Hobart 120 that he got free. I'm the area's backyard welder and he wants an opinion. He thinks it lived its previous life in a muffler shop. It is set up for .023 wire. The drive mechanism looks just like my Hobart 190's except for the way the drive roller is attached to the shaft.
    * When plugged in, the fan runs.
    * When the trigger is pulled, the solenoid for the shielding gas sounds like it is opening/closing.
    * When the trigger is pulled, the feed motor does not run.
    * It has a mostly full, 10-pound roll of wire installed. This wire is R-U-S-T-Y (as in the machine has been sitting around not running for a L-O-N-G time)
    * When I unscrewed the tip and pulled the wire out through the end of the gun, I had to use pliers for the entire pull, the wire was not sliding well at all. (maybe the fork lift ran over it?)
    * The door on the wire-spool/feeder-roll side is missing.
    * The cover plate on the opposite side of the feeder side has been pop riveted into place.
    * The framework at the lower rear of the machine is loose/broken although still somewhat in place.
    Is this thing repairable? My bad attitude is hanging out I guess, but I'm inclined to suggest that he snip off the work lead/work clamp and recycle the rest. Anyone want to chime in? Any other parts that should be saved?
    Thank you for your concern. All best wishes. ~0le
    "If a problem can't be solved, enlarge it." (The 34th president of the United States)

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    1,451
    Sounds like pretty beat machine, but I would dig a bit deeper and see if the wire feed motor is not just suffering from loose connection or something simple... IF motor is available as a part, then cost may have something to do with trying to restore it to operation or not.... The whip and gun seem to be available as replacements, and maybe wire guide is just extremely dirty from people trying to pull rusty wire through it... IF it were me, would tinker with it a bit more to see how dead is dead...

    https://www.hobartwelders.com/om/6di...10088d_hob.pdf

    Dale
    Lives his life vicariously through his own self.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    ohio
    Posts
    633
    check the voltage selector switch if it's not in the correct position you will not have power to the drive motor if you take a voltmeter and check across the output studs you should see a DC output with the gun trigger pulled if you have no voltage I would suspect the contactor or voltage switch would be the problem should be a simple fix and of course a new liner for the gun.
    DrIQ

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Location
    Northern Colorado
    Posts
    117
    If you had to use pliers to pull wire thru hose that should tell you a lot. Sounds as tho the liner has been pinched. That would be the first area I would explore. Disassemble the gun and remove the liner.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    San Francisco Bay Area (California)
    Posts
    12

    Voltage selector

    Friends,

    Oh yea, the voltage selector. I forgot to mention that. The knob is missing; the shaft is broken off. I might be able to poke in with a pair of long-nose pliers and see if it will turn. I'll give that a try tomorrow. Thank you for your suggestions. ~0le
    "If a problem can't be solved, enlarge it." (The 34th president of the United States)

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    1,451
    Quote Originally Posted by ~0le View Post
    Friends,

    Oh yea, the voltage selector. I forgot to mention that. The knob is missing; the shaft is broken off. I might be able to poke in with a pair of long-nose pliers and see if it will turn. I'll give that a try tomorrow. Thank you for your suggestions. ~0le
    Beginning to sound a little more like maybe not worth tinkering with... IF if you can get motor to run, it may be worth investment in liner and selector switch...

    Dale
    Lives his life vicariously through his own self.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    San Francisco Bay Area (California)
    Posts
    12

    Feed motor runs when voltage selector switch is diddled

    Fellow welders,

    Thank you to DrIQ for explaining how this system works. When I put a spring clamp on the gun trigger and diddled the voltage selector switch, the feed motor ran! Woo woo. It is not my decision to fix this unit or not, but it certainly looks savable.

    Thank you for everyone's help and interest. ~0le
    "If a problem can't be solved, enlarge it." (The 34th president of the United States)

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    San Francisco Bay Area (California)
    Posts
    12

    Hey Neighbor

    Diyo,

    Check out what my colleagues at the Hobart welding discussion board had to say about your wire-feeder welder.

    https://www.hobartwelders.com/weldta...178-Hobart-120

    As it sits, it is set up to be a MIG welder, but all the necessary parts did not come with it. To get it running as a MIG welder you would have to obtain a cylinder of shielding gas, a regulator, and a hose (approximately $250). Plus, of course a roll of MIG wire (starting at about $10). The wire that came with it is too rusty to be reused. To get it running as a FluxCore welder would be less expensive. You would need only to buy a roll of (self-shielded) flux core wire (about $25)

    In either case as discussed in the thread, you will need to buy and install the voltage selector switch and a liner for the gun (cost unknown, but I'd guess in the vicinity of $50). You will also want a new tip for the welding gun (perhaps $6 for a card of 10) . And, of course, a welding helmet (about $30) and some gloves.

    There are, of course, no guarantees, but it looks like this welder has some life left in it.
    Once you get the machine running, there will be learning curve to get around before you are actually welding with it. This unit, the Hobart Handler 120, is good to single-pass up to about 1/8" steel and multi-pass MAYBE up to 1/4" depending on the skill you have developed through practice. You won't want to be welding on trailer hitches or trailer frames or any other critical stuff with a machine this small.
    Give me a call or come over and we can discuss this in more depth. I'll be happy to help you get this baby running again.

    All best wishes, ~0le
    "If a problem can't be solved, enlarge it." (The 34th president of the United States)

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