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  #1  
Old 07-03-2005, 11:58 PM
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Passport test pics.

Dan,
I got around to trying some weld cut pieces.
Not the best beads but you can get a general idea.
I kind of missed the mark here and there.

The top piece is CO2 and the bottom is C-25.

Everything was factory settings except with the .250 I had to use the high inductance tap.
The wire would stub into the work at a setting of # 8.5 volts and # 8.5 wire feed when using C02 gas and the low setting. It was fine with C-25 either way.

The first one is C-25 on .125 at #4.5 voltage and #5 on the wire with .030
The second is both CO2 on top and C-25 on the bottom. .125
The last is .250 CO2 top and C-25 on the bottom.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg .125 C25.jpg (95.5 KB, 351 views)
File Type: jpg .125 both.jpg (81.4 KB, 313 views)
File Type: jpg .250.jpg (84.4 KB, 307 views)
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  #2  
Old 07-04-2005, 02:05 AM
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Exclamation

To me it looks like "no penetration"........thats odd. Attachmnet :Hobart Penetration 101 on C-25 and Co2
Attached Images
File Type: gif diagram2.gif (2.9 KB, 272 views)
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  #3  
Old 07-04-2005, 02:33 AM
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I am sure your would want to run higher settings on the 1/8 but I was going by factory settings for a baseline.
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  #4  
Old 07-04-2005, 04:46 AM
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Something is really wrong with those welds. Too much buildup, and almost zero pentration on both sides.
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  #5  
Old 07-04-2005, 09:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brand X
Dan,
I got around to trying some weld cut pieces.
Not the best beads but you can get a general idea.
I kind of missed the mark here and there.

The top piece is CO2 and the bottom is C-25.

Everything was factory settings except with the .250 I had to use the high inductance tap.
The wire would stub into the work at a setting of # 8.5 volts and # 8.5 wire feed when using C02 gas and the low setting. It was fine with C-25 either way.

The first one is C-25 on .125 at #4.5 voltage and #5 on the wire with .030
The second is both CO2 on top and C-25 on the bottom. .125
The last is .250 CO2 top and C-25 on the bottom.
Scott,

Looks from the pictures like CO2 would be the gas to use with the Passport, well I guess that makes sence as thats what they tuned it for.
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  #6  
Old 07-04-2005, 11:29 AM
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Don't think I'll be in the market for a passport.
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  #7  
Old 07-04-2005, 02:22 PM
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Here is one with CO2 gas on 120 volt input .120 fillet.
I turned the volts to # 5 and the wire to #6 It was the 3/16 setting.

Please cut up test pieces from your machines with .125 so we can compare them.
210 with .030 wire and the 120 volt machine with solid wire.
I would like to see the difference in profiles between machines.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg .125 higher.jpg (79.3 KB, 237 views)
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  #8  
Old 07-04-2005, 02:38 PM
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That is a good idea Brand X, would make for some interesting comparisons. That looks good, I wish I knew what your voltage is though.
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  #9  
Old 07-04-2005, 04:17 PM
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What acid does one use to show the penetration . I did some cuts and its solid steel , cant see the penetration area.
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"remember, spark production is not welding,
a nice shiny cold bead, piled high, that i can knock off with a banana does not make you a weldor."
Pumpkinhead

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  #10  
Old 07-04-2005, 04:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roospike
What acid does one use to show the penetration . I did some cuts and its solid steel , cant see the penetration area.
First I would grind or smooth the weld cut area,and Then I ran over it with a red roloc scotchbrite wheel to polish it some. Then the only acid I had was some aluminum metal prep
type stuff. I am sure just about any phosphoric or muratic would work. Home Depot would have some in the paint section.
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  #11  
Old 07-04-2005, 04:41 PM
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File it smooth and polish with emery cloth. Battery acid will work, nitric is supposed to be the best. I don't have any to experiment with.

Here is one, I forget what the parameters were.
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File Type: jpg weld etch.JPG (52.1 KB, 194 views)
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  #12  
Old 07-04-2005, 06:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roospike
What acid does one use to show the penetration . I did some cuts and its solid steel , cant see the penetration area.
Cut, polish, then dip in a 50/50% of water and muratic acid for about 30 seconds for good results.

Scott, that last one looks very nice from where I set,.
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  #13  
Old 07-04-2005, 06:33 PM
Bigger Valves Bigger Valves is offline
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We got a lotta rookies around here giving advice now. The .250" weld looks pretty good. In a short circuit transfer fillet you'll never see very much "penetration" into the root. And don't get me started on the "penetration" thing I've already mouthed off about it before.

Brand X,
The .250" is looking like a sound weld for most all applications given the process. In the first two pics I don't like how the original line of the base metal is visible. IMO we have a problem of fusion. I know you're just testing baseline settings so no harm, and good test.
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  #14  
Old 07-04-2005, 06:36 PM
Bigger Valves Bigger Valves is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roospike
To me it looks like "no penetration"........thats odd. Attachmnet :Hobart Penetration 101 on C-25 and Co2

Time to quit readin' the books and go cut up some test pieces of your short circuit welds on some fillets.
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  #15  
Old 07-04-2005, 06:38 PM
Bigger Valves Bigger Valves is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brand X
Here is one with CO2 gas on 120 volt input .120 fillet.
I turned the volts to # 5 and the wire to #6 It was the 3/16 setting.

Please cut up test pieces from your machines with .125 so we can compare them.
210 with .030 wire and the 120 volt machine with solid wire.
I would like to see the difference in profiles between machines.
that looks purdy!
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