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  #1  
Old 04-10-2005, 08:42 AM
carl_stevenson carl_stevenson is offline
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Replacing coolant nozzle on the Turn-Pro saws?

Darrel said:
Quote:
Originally Posted by darelldd
The only time there's a "light end" is when the saw is verticle. When down, both ends are heavy! Those wheels looks great! Time for some four-wheeling! But I'll bet you have an even harder time of turning it...

I'm going to mount mine to a horizontal hand truck. Havne't gotten that far yet. If you missed my shots in the other thread, here's mine, still on the stock wheels, but with the new Loc-line coolant nozzle.
http://darelldd.com/tool/band_saw.htm
Darrell - It is not easy to turn, but it while it stays in place where you want it, it cal also be rolled (in the line it wants to roll in, once you have it pointed right) with one hand. As I said, I'm thinking I need to design some sort of wagon-like swivel carriage for one end (or a fixed plate with appropriate-sized heavy duty swivel casters - I can always use the 2nd pair of wheels for another project

On the cooland/lock-line issue - you sound like you know more than me about this (I fave to admit that I didn't even know what lock-line was until you mentioned it and showed me), but I have the following observation/question:

The way the stock brass tubing places the coolant flow, it moves with the left blade guard, cooling the bearings and the blade from that point to the right. I've noticed that the correct(?) adjustment of the ball valve causes the coolant to not spray all over ****'s half acre, but rather to form a "ball" at the top of the blade where it comes out of the bearings that then disperses over the blade and the material it's cutting.

Looking at your pic with the lock-line, it seems that you're placing the coolant way to the right near the right bearings, where it may not cool everything that "wants" cooling (including the left bearings and a lot of blade), particularly for wide stock, where a significant width of blade will be in material, or the kerf.

Again, I may be all wet on this, but I'd be curious to hear your answer/explaination and the comments of others.

(BTW ... where do you get "lock-line" if I should decide to do use some?)
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Carl
Reading books, watching here, and practicing to become proficient.
Dynasty 200DX w/ 120 and 80 cf Ar tanks
HH180 w/ 120 and 80cf C-25 tanks
AirForce 400 plasma cutter
Victor Super-Range II OA set w/cart and 80cf tanks
HF 14" chopsaw
Turn-Pro 3195 3-speed gearbox 7"x12" bandsaw
About 8 HF 4-1/2" angle grinders (I hate changing wheels
Misc other shop tools
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  #2  
Old 04-10-2005, 11:42 AM
whatatrip whatatrip is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carl_stevenson
Darrel said:

On the cooland/lock-line issue - you sound like you know more than me about this (I fave to admit that I didn't even know what lock-line was until you mentioned it and showed me), but I have the following observation/question:

The way the stock brass tubing places the coolant flow, it moves with the left blade guard, cooling the bearings and the blade from that point to the right. I've noticed that the correct(?) adjustment of the ball valve causes the coolant to not spray all over ****'s half acre, but rather to form a "ball" at the top of the blade where it comes out of the bearings that then disperses over the blade and the material it's cutting.

Looking at your pic with the lock-line, it seems that you're placing the coolant way to the right near the right bearings, where it may not cool everything that "wants" cooling (including the left bearings and a lot of blade), particularly for wide stock, where a significant width of blade will be in material, or the kerf.

Again, I may be all wet on this, but I'd be curious to hear your answer/explaination and the comments of others.

(BTW ... where do you get "lock-line" if I should decide to do use some?)
I tend to agree with you cal. I plan to add a second coolant nozzle to my saw as shown on the saw at at the following link: http://www.shopoutfitters.com/BandSaw.html

My thoughts are that the fluid lubricates, flushes filings off the blade and cleans the blade before going through the blade guide. More importantly it is a coolant designed to cool the blade and help retain blade hardness.

I, too, may be all wet on this but at this point this is the way I see it.
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  #3  
Old 04-10-2005, 02:57 PM
darelldd darelldd is offline
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OK, first off, with the Loc-line nozzle, it can be aimed ANYWHERE. I can put the coolant stream on the upper bearings, the lower bearings, before the cut, on the cut, behind the cut... ANYWHERE - including right where it used to go. I may put a T in and restore that stock coolant hose to those upper bearing guides AND have it availble for other redirection as I have it now. Seems to be plenty of coolant pressure available for two lines!

This is the very first response I've heard on adjusting that flow pet****! I wasn't ever sure if I should leave it wide open or adjust it to where it makes the most sense. Was afraid of back-pressure on the coolant pump. That's not a problem?

Now, about the stock flow location being great for flushing chips and all that - this is before the cut! So after the cut, nothing washes chips away except the wire brush before the lower guide bearings. And nothing "cools" those lower bearings which now has the hotter blade coming through them. If that wire brush doesn't do a good job of chip removal, then you get chips through those lower bearings, and then on through the big drive wheels, and back around to the upper guides, where, in theory, the coolant flow then removes the chips just before the next cut is made. ??? And if the wire brush DOES do a good job, then the whole chip washing before the next cut is moot, yes? But hey - I'll be the first to admit that I don't know what the heck I'm doing either. If putting coolant on the blade well before the cut is the best idea, I have no problem doing that with my setup. I have a wee bit of background with CNC mills, and we always squirted the coolant (with about five Loc-Line nozzles) directly onto the cutter right where it was making the cut. A saw, of course, is a different animal. Seems to me that I want to wash the chips away right at the cut - and my setup makes that easy and affective.

As for buying the Loc-line stuff, I know it can be purchased at many machinery places, though I don't have them at my finger-tips right now. Mine has always been purchased online. I buy in bulk, so don't do it very often! There have been many cheaper knock-offs as well, but to the best of my knowledge, none of them have been the same high quality. The stuff is useful for many applications. I make flashlight necks out of it as well.
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HH180, Cutmaster 38, Miller Xlix Elite, TurnPro 7x12 Horiz bandsaw.
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  #4  
Old 04-10-2005, 06:48 PM
carl_stevenson carl_stevenson is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by darelldd
OK, first off, with the Loc-line nozzle, it can be aimed ANYWHERE. I can put the coolant stream on the upper bearings, the lower bearings, before the cut, on the cut, behind the cut... ANYWHERE - including right where it used to go. I may put a T in and restore that stock coolant hose to those upper bearing guides AND have it availble for other redirection as I have it now. Seems to be plenty of coolant pressure available for two lines!.
I agree ... with the ball valve wide open, the darned thing REALLY squirts too much - it splashes all over the place. I think you could T off a 2nd line for your lock-line and still have lots of pressue/flow volume. You could even use a 2nd ball valve after the T to allow the stock port and your added one to be independently adjusted.

Quote:
Originally Posted by darelldd
This is the very first response I've heard on adjusting that flow pet****! I wasn't ever sure if I should leave it wide open or adjust it to where it makes the most sense. Was afraid of back-pressure on the coolant pump. That's not a problem?
Nobody's said anything. Wide open seems to be WAY too much pressure/flow volume - beyond reason by my thinking. The pump look plenty beefy ...

Anyone else have thoughts on this???

QUOTE=darelldd]Now, about the stock flow location being great for flushing chips and all that - this is before the cut! So after the cut, nothing washes chips away except the wire brush before the lower guide bearings. And nothing "cools" those lower bearings which now has the hotter blade coming through them.[/QUOTE]

Seems to me that with ample flow along the blade, the blade gets cooled pretty well and the chips find their way out of the kerf - though an additional port as you suggest certainly wouldn't hurt anything at all ... I may do that, too, with separate ball valves as I suggested.

QUOTE=darelldd]If that wire brush doesn't do a good job of chip removal, then you get chips through those lower bearings, and then on through the big drive wheels, and back around to the upper guides, where, in theory, the coolant flow then removes the chips just before the next cut is made. ??? And if the wire brush DOES do a good job, then the whole chip washing before the next cut is moot, yes?[/QUOTE]

The brush looks pretty formidable to me ...

QUOTE=darelldd] But hey - I'll be the first to admit that I don't know what the heck I'm doing either. If putting coolant on the blade well before the cut is the best idea, I have no problem doing that with my setup. I have a wee bit of background with CNC mills, and we always squirted the coolant (with about five Loc-Line nozzles) directly onto the cutter right where it was making the cut. A saw, of course, is a different animal. Seems to me that I want to wash the chips away right at the cut - and my setup makes that easy and affective.{/QUOTE]

I agree on the milling machines ... there, the coolant is put directly on the cutter at the cut. But isn't oil usually used in milling/drilling?

QUOTE=darelldd]As for buying the Loc-line stuff, I know it can be purchased at many machinery places, though I don't have them at my finger-tips right now. Mine has always been purchased online. I buy in bulk, so don't do it very often! There have been many cheaper knock-offs as well, but to the best of my knowledge, none of them have been the same high quality. The stuff is useful for many applications. I make flashlight necks out of it as well.[/QUOTE]

Thanks ... I'll see if I can google up some sources.
__________________
Carl
Reading books, watching here, and practicing to become proficient.
Dynasty 200DX w/ 120 and 80 cf Ar tanks
HH180 w/ 120 and 80cf C-25 tanks
AirForce 400 plasma cutter
Victor Super-Range II OA set w/cart and 80cf tanks
HF 14" chopsaw
Turn-Pro 3195 3-speed gearbox 7"x12" bandsaw
About 8 HF 4-1/2" angle grinders (I hate changing wheels
Misc other shop tools
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  #5  
Old 04-10-2005, 09:42 PM
asad asad is offline
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Worse come to worse, you can get loc-line from McMaster-Carr.

Asad
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  #6  
Old 04-11-2005, 01:48 AM
whatatrip whatatrip is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carl_stevenson
Nobody's said anything. Wide open seems to be WAY too much pressure/flow volume - beyond reason by my thinking. The pump look plenty beefy ...

Anyone else have thoughts on this???.
I see no reason why the volume can't be turned down as long as you don't turn it all the way off with the pump still running.

QUOTE=darelldd] I have a wee bit of background with CNC mills, and we always squirted the coolant (with about five Loc-Line nozzles) directly onto the cutter right where it was making the cut. A saw, of course, is a different animal. Seems to me that I want to wash the chips away right at the cut - and my setup makes that easy and affective.{/QUOTE]

The centrifical force on the liquid on a milling machine cutter is much greater than the simple gravity of a band saw blade traveling in a straight line. A rotating cutter flings liquid off quite easily so the best way to get any benefit from the coolant/lubricant is to direct the liquid at the cutter just before the cut begins. That way the liquid is forced through the cut and the chips fly off the cutter because of centrifical force and the lubricant.
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  #7  
Old 04-11-2005, 07:03 AM
TJJ TJJ is offline
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Location: Lafayette, La
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saw coolant

The coolant for the saw can be throttled down without harm to the pump. Were not talking precision, high pressure pump here guys. There won't be any flashing and cavitation even if the pump were deadhead. The coolant cools and lubricates the blade to extend blade life. Its not really meant to cool the bearings although it does somewhat. Its not meant to flush away chips, although it does a little of that too. If you have only one nozzle, put it on top of the blade where it enters the part to be cut. If you have two, then use it as a blade wash as it leaves the cut part.
We use two nozzles at the shop. The way we adjust is opening it up til coolant makes a mess on the floor, then back off a little. The more the better until you lose coolant on the floor.
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  #8  
Old 06-13-2005, 12:53 AM
darelldd darelldd is offline
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HELP! Need to resurect this thread.

My saw has been idle for about a month. Today I turn it on and no coolant. Nada, zilch. Anybody have this problem with the Turnpro? It appears that the pump is just not running. Didn't have time to do a thorough check, but the hose is clear, the coolant level is good, the wire nuts are all in place, the coolant switch is on, the nozzle is open... just no juice! Tomorrow I'll make sure there is power to the pump, and see where we are. ****.

Any other great suggestions!?
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HH180, Cutmaster 38, Miller Xlix Elite, TurnPro 7x12 Horiz bandsaw.
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