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  #1  
Old 07-16-2005, 11:33 PM
ASOD ASOD is offline
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Here is a closer look at one of my welds, showing HAZ in detail.


Here is a diagram explaining my technique.

The video starts out a bit unsteady...sorry, but after watching a few times you should have a better understanding my technique.

The video is about 6 meg in size. Let me know if you have any problems viewing it. I will be taking more footage with a better cam this week.

MIG Welding Footage - Crown Technique
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Old 07-17-2005, 12:06 AM
TOMWELDS TOMWELDS is offline
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WoW! that video is an awesome demo. I noticed the 'pause' and how it creates the ripples. What gas were you using and wire size?
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Old 07-17-2005, 12:25 AM
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own6volvos own6volvos is offline
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Getting some good beads with that, but I still end up making some pretty tall mounds on flat metal just running lines. Would they end up being a bit flatter if I first use a grinder and put long notched down?

Also, I noticed the spacing between your waves is pretty wide, is there a reason for doing that over tight ripples? And lastly, what are the brown oil like globs? I have been getting those on my pieces, and it looks almost like it will wipe off, but its hard like the welds.
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Old 07-17-2005, 12:51 AM
ASOD ASOD is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by own6volvos
Getting some good beads with that, but I still end up making some pretty tall mounds on flat metal just running lines. Would they end up being a bit flatter if I first use a grinder and put long notched down?

Also, I noticed the spacing between your waves is pretty wide, is there a reason for doing that over tight ripples? And lastly, what are the brown oil like globs? I have been getting those on my pieces, and it looks almost like it will wipe off, but its hard like the welds.

I recommend setting up a t-joint, 3/16 to 1/4 in thickness, tacking both ends in prep for a destructive test. Run a bead from end-to-end, using my technique. When completed lay the welded t-joint, weld-side facing up on a metal/solid surface. Then using a BFH, proceed to beating the crap out of it, trying to flatten it down. Once, flat, look on the opposite side of the weld, verify whether or not you have any joint seperation. Either the t-joint will fail or it will hold. Sometimes the beginning will start to separate, while the rest holds.

Continue to do this until you have successfully produced a pretty - sound weld. For some individuals it takes a while to catch on. The more experienced you are the quicker it comes together.
Once you have this technique down, you can graduate on to other positions, such as, horizontal, vertical down, vertical up, and finally overhead. Once you are proficient with the t-joint, we can help you learn how to weld butt-joints and then on to lap and corner. The butt-joint all poisition will be your biggest challenge if you want to go that far...

The "ripples" are actually quit tight and uniformed, it just looks different close up.
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Last edited by ASOD; 07-17-2005 at 01:11 AM..
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Old 07-17-2005, 01:06 AM
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Roospike Roospike is offline
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Thats about the same style i did these welds a long wile ago working on "sexy beads" as some one call it. i had a ton of poeple here tell me that kind of weld wasnt strong and not to do it. Whatever , i do it anyway and the parts i do it on gets high regards from the buyers. I did a lot of tests on these welds and they are just as strong as any other bead i have used. Keep them beads rolling ! ....... ...................
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Last edited by Roospike; 07-17-2005 at 05:02 AM..
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  #6  
Old 07-17-2005, 03:44 AM
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own6volvos own6volvos is offline
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If you are getting a weld that goes to a hissing sound, and sends crap everywhere, and then leaves horrible black dust/film on the metal after you lay down a bead what does that mean? Also, the very edges of it look like that are just "resting" on the metal, similar to molten solder dripped onto the floor. This happened after I turned the voltage up one notch trying to dig in deeper and flatten out the weld. Even cranking the shielding gas up didn't help.

Was this just a sign of too much voltage?

Also, picking up some new play metal from the store tommorow, and hoping to get some pictures up of some real welds, and not just beads down some flat stock
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Old 07-17-2005, 03:51 AM
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Mike W Mike W is offline
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Talking

Here are some pictures:
http://www.thaikobe.com/corp/article...=en&id_news=11
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  #8  
Old 07-17-2005, 12:27 AM
ASOD ASOD is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TOMWELDS
WoW! that video is an awesome demo. I noticed the 'pause' and how it creates the ripples. What gas were you using and wire size?
Thank you!

Wire size is .035 using a 90% Argon to 10% CO2 mixture.

Machine used was a MM175 - setting @ 19.9 volts -- wire speed @ 302

Gas pressure, (in a HOT...HUMID shop) was set @ 27 CFH.
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Old 07-17-2005, 10:37 PM
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Roospike Roospike is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ASOD
Thank you!

Wire size is .035 using a 90% Argon to 10% CO2 mixture.

Machine used was a MM175 - setting @ 19.9 volts -- wire speed @ 302

Gas pressure, (in a HOT...HUMID shop) was set @ 27 CFH.
He has a MM 175 as he stated.
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"remember, spark production is not welding,
a nice shiny cold bead, piled high, that i can knock off with a banana does not make you a weldor."
Pumpkinhead

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