Off Topic - Garage Renovation Resources?

[Teeps]

You guys have any resources on Garage renovation? IE, Enlargement?

I have an acceptable sized, two car garage, but it doesn't have a ton of room for tools.
And I have one big darn car I'm working on in there.

Basically, all I have room for is 1 car and tools, and I still have quite a few more tools I plan on getting.

I think the easiest thing would be to bulldoze the whole thing down, and start from scratch.

Its easier for me to learn-understand the building of a new structure from scratch, compared to knowing all the ins and outs of load bearing stuctures, keeping within supportive limits, building code, and how to add-on to create a larger structure, in a sense enlarging it. The other fun part is that the roof is pyramid shaped, so the roof trusses would probably have to be done from scratch. I don't know if I could get it approved but a loft is definately an interest.

I will not be living on the property forever, if I could spend $3-8k-ish on enlarging the garage that might be doable. If I have to doze it, and start fresh, I'm pretty sure I'm looking at a 15-30k project, (15k on materials maybe if I do most of it myself).
I cannot justify a 15k project for only 3-4 more years of residence.

I may end up trying to get a contractor to come by to get started some feasible options for possible planning, and cost estimates of those plans.

However, I would likely benefit from learning as much about structures (and adding to them) as possible, so I can make sure I'm asking all the right questions.

Any good books, or resources on the subject?

Thanks for your insight,

Don

[Brad54]

If you aren't planning on staying there for a long time, then keep it simple. My suggestion would be to put a "shed" style room attachement onto one wall of the shop--either the back wall or a side wall. You can put a wide archway--a six-foot wide archway wouldn't be too difficult to add, and you can reinforce the "door case" with several studs and a thick header across the top, and it should be fine. Don't waste time and resources with windows in it (but I would put an exterior door going out of it for a fire-escape.) This way, you'll have a tool room with benches and equipment, and will have room to work around your car.
You'll also only be adding on three walls and a simple roof, so you won't have to worry about a ridge, shingles on the ridge, vents, and all the other things that will add time/frustration and cost. If you did one 8 or 10 feet wide along either the back wall or side wall of the shop, that'd be plenty big for a shop you plan on leaving in 4-5 years. Plus, it's a lot less time to pour a 20x8 slab of concrete and then erect three walls and simple roof joists that starting from scratch. And it's easier than doing a full-on home-style addition because you aren't really worried about changing the roof line, etc.

Go to Home Depot and look at the books they've got there on building backyard structures, framing basics for house building, etc. You'll find something in those that will give you a better understanding.

Also, if there are any houses under construction around you, stop by and just look at how they frame in doors and windows to get an idea of what you'd need to do to put a 4-6 foot opening in a wall.

-Brad

[Teeps]

Thanks for your insight, forgot to mention, it's a detached garage.
Also it's block wall.

There is already a window at the back wall, so the most logical would be to add on to the back wall of the garage.

Not sure, but I think the walls are load bearing, so not sure the safe/proper way to maintain support. Probably buiding a super sturdy frame around the door, after cutting the block out.

Did the home depot thing, but nothing really applies to my unique structure.....
I won't have any problem building a shed footing and floor, and base board, and I can figure out the framing, or block if I decide to go that route. But not sure how the roof is going to work out, totally seperate from the garage?

I like your idea, I think I might try it, but on a larger scale, I think I could add another structure, possibly the same width as the garage, and extend it out maybe 15 feet further back, The garage roof could still extend further down... maybe? the angle is relatively flat, so it could extend a ways before making the roofline too short. Or maybe just a new roof, at the same angle that sort of looks like it's close to attached.

I''ll have to draw up some plans and see how it will all look.

Thanks,

Don

[toolaholic]

I.m a carpenter [40 yrs ex. gen contr.] send photos and dimensions. need set back info. i will help, with advice!

[Brad54]

Does the ridge of your garage run front-to-back, or side-to-side?

Either way, it can be done. I've never done it, but you see farm buildings (particularly) where they added a shed with roof, and I've seen it on other buildings as well (home remodels, etc.).
-Brad

[MadMetalMax]

I.m a carpenter [40 yrs ex. gen contr.] send photos and dimensions. need set back info. i will help, with advice!

hey my father is planning on extending our garage ouf a good meter or two do you think you could help us out with plans as well???

[Teeps]

Tool a holic, you are the man.
Your experience is much appreciated.

to address the question about the roof, it's a pyramid, so the peak is a point, and there
are four sides shaped like a triangle. One flat side at the rear, and one block wall with a window in the center.

I'll take some pictures, in the daylight tomorrow, and get some dimensions.
A little design info, goes a long way at the start of these projects!

Thanks!!!!!!!!

Don

[toolaholic]

one of the considerations we have is, the footprint in relation to property lines.
it's always easier to extend the ridge on a structure ,unless u're up against a neighbors fence. adding rafters is easier than putting in an I beam or parralam under existing rafter tails.

teeps you have a hip roof, and the flat roofed area probably was an addition

people usually, don't add enough sq. footage one way to figure what you need is, to draw seperate work station areas out on indivudal peices of paper ,then join them togeather in different configurarions. for a new house you can make scale papers of bedrooms, kitchen, livingrooms, studies, baths, and then arrange them in many combinations! have fun

[Mike W]

Thanks for the help offer toolaholic, I may have a question for you one of these days.

[James D. Clark]

If you are planning on moving to new accommodations in a few years, consider buying a temporary or portable shed and placing it next to your garage and connect it with an enclosed walk through (tunnel?). You should be able to keep tools and some equipment in the shed, out of the way, when they aren't needed.

[tonyclifton]

Put the car under an exterior car port - they are available fairly cheap, or you could build one coming off the garage. A man needs all the space in a 2-car garage for his stuff and tools and it is not place for a car. I keep my motorcycle in there, but thats different!

[toolaholic]

any time mike , also my friend is a bechtel engr. that does my retaining wall and beam calcs. we do lot.s of retaining walls in hilly marin co. wide flange iron beams in 18" dia holes 11 ft deep set in cocrete. 7 ft on cented 4x12 pressure treated #1 fir and that's for a 5 ft wall with an up slope sur charge. big bucks!

[qualls]

The metal (chicken-house type) trusses are a fast and easy way to make or add onto a building. They run from $90 to $140 per truss and span 24 to 40 feet (or more, with higher cost). Truss bolts to a post on each side, which also gives frame for walls. The bays are 8 to 12 feet. We can span 12 feet in the sunny south, but snowy states need a smaller spacing ot accomodate ice and snow loads. 2x6 purlins span on 2 foot centers set in cups on the trusses. There are a million places in Alabama making these. You can also use a bar truss (half of one of these) and hang one end of the bar on the block wall and the other on posts. The only downside is that the trusses drop down 16 to 20 inches and are head bangers on lower roof designs. This is the fastest, cheapest and easiest pole building to put up to make a new or enlarge an existing building. Many of the places offer "kits" with trusses, purlins, roofing and siding already cut ( even doors if you want).

[realhfd]

Hey Toolaholic, since you are being so helpful, I put up a steel building for my shop/garage and have about a 22 foot span that I want to set up an old 1 1/2 ton yale chain hoist. Any idea of the size of the I-beam I would need to span that an support the hoist?? thanks

[toolaholic]

on that, i would defer to the engineer. i.ve bought a lot of I beams real cheap when the're demoing buildings. [ beams for my own shop ] once for retaining walls i got about 8- 20 ftrs for $100 and loaded on my truck . if you find something a little light -- box the sides. i.ll see my friend over the weekend and ask if he'll run some quick ##s for you, no guarantee!!!!!