Bolting to concrete?

[Bodfish]

Say, what is your experiences with bolting machine type bases to concrete? I've just finished a vise stand. It's welded to a piece of 1/4" plate and I already drilled 4 1/2" holes in it.

I've thought of using the Red heads, but they look kinda frail.

Thought of using regular epoxy, I've got a gallon.

Thought of using some kind of concrete patch. (no experience).

Lead anchors with lags?

Anybody got any real experience here and kin hep me??

(accent from living in Houston once, Amarillo twice, and Gatesville twice

[Rocky D]

I like Hilti expansion bolts...you can get em from the orange apron guys, now. Drill your hole pounde em in and tighten em up...simple....I like simple.

[Chipmaker]

The expansion bolts are by far the strongest overall. Or even the threaded studs with a slit tapered skirt that wedges in the concrete. I have a piece of 5/8" plate 16 x 20 inches in size bolted to my shops floor, with an assortment of various sized drilled and tapped holes in it, so I can use it to secure my various tools etc to as I need them. I also use it as an anchor point and thread in a forged eye that I can attach a chain block or comealong to to pull in machine tools or vehciles that do not run. The expansion bolts have yet to come loose and that plate has seen some pretty heavy loads put on it. Its mainly used to secure my HF bending tool to.

Lag bolts and shields aways seem to pull loose after a while.
Patching material (the type used for setting bolts etc) will work. Epoxy seems like a very popular method as well. but a good old expansion stud or bolt is hard to beat.

A vise typically has a lot of hard stresses put on them due to its uses, so it would not take long for lead anchors to work loose. I also like to drill the holes in the mount plate as close to the size of the bolt or stud as possible, so the anchors wedge or skirt can not work its way up through the hole, and keeps it in the concrete where it belongs.

[bobad]

You're right Redheads are wimpy.

Here's what I use. Don't know the name, but they're easy to spot. Here's a picture of a half incher.

[Mike Sherman]

I have started using Simpson Brand Titan HD anchors. These are screw in anchors that use a standard masonry bit. (1/2" anchor = 1/2" bit) I have done extensive research and extensive field trials and I must say that I have been completely won over. I was initially very skeptical of a screw in reusable anchor, but this brand works exactly as advertised. They have superior holding strength when compared to a wedge type anchor of the same diameter and length. I have confirmed this in my own field tests. (No I do not own stock in this company).

[Sberry]

No matter which ones you use, blow the dust out of the holes first. I have used lots of Hilit's so its a known quanity. The Hilit's use a hardened bolt and properly installed you cant pull them out. Mike, I would certainly like to see the Simpsons. Are they similar design to a Tapcon?

[dda52]

Bodfish
You've been given solid advice on the wedge anchors. IMO, they would be the best bet, tons better than a sleeve anchor. We have used those type anchors to brace 20 to 30,000 lb concrete panels. They can hold that and more depending on base material and anchor size. That said, I want to see Mike Shermans Anchor. Sounds intresting.
Epoxy anchors would be the strongest of the bunch, and the most difficult to use. Holes have to be super clean etc. The ones that have the epoxy capsules work well, not as messy. That type usually requires a setting type anchor that needs to be installed with a big honkin' roto hammer. Some don't. They change these all the time... you know, new and improved. They seem to be getting better all the time. Some are a colossal pain, some aren't. It depends on the brand and how you hold your mouth when installing them.
The problem with epoxy is later. If you decide to change things up a bit, you have to cut them out with a torch or grinder. The wedgies, however, can be knocked back in with a sledge or mini sledge. You just have to drill the hole deeper to start with to accomplish this.

[Sberry]

His application isnt critical, most of them would work, I would stay away from lags and sheilds though, other than that its moot.

[Aaron]

Originally posted by bobad
You're right Redheads are wimpy.

Here's what I use. Don't know the name, but they're easy to spot. Here's a picture of a half incher.

Redhead is a name brand for several styles of concrete anchors. Your statement is the rough equivalent of saying Hobart welders are wimpy. (Hobart and Redhead are both ITW companies by the way )

Personally, I would change your statement only by saying that redhead sleeve anchors are wimpy. Redhead wedge anchors are very similar to the one in your photo, and I use them often and prefer them over many other options.

[AV8OR]

Hummm, more intel on Mike Sherman's Titen HD Anchors

[Aaron]

Those look promising.....

[Bodfish]

Originally posted by bobad
You're right Redheads are wimpy.

Here's what I use. Don't know the name, but they're easy to spot. Here's a picture of a half incher.

Ok, I took your photo to the Borg, and got some that look just like that. but they ARE Redheads........

Anyway, I went ahead and put them in, and it seems to me I couldn't put much torque on them. Instructions say to tighten 3 turns, and I did. but it sure don't feel very tight........

To get these out, do you just take off the nut and base, but the washer and nut back on, and turn them down? Will this pull them out?

I couldn't find anything else close at my local Borg store, BTW. And thanks a bunch to all who replied!!

[bobad]

Originally posted by Bodfish
Ok, I took your photo to the Borg, and got some that look just like that. but they ARE Redheads........

Anyway, I went ahead and put them in, and it seems to me I couldn't put much torque on them. Instructions say to tighten 3 turns, and I did. but it sure don't feel very tight........

To get these out, do you just take off the nut and base, but the washer and nut back on, and turn them down? Will this pull them out?

I couldn't find anything else close at my local Borg store, BTW. And thanks a bunch to all who replied!!

Get them out?

If they're fully tightened, you just saw them off and grind them flush with the slab, and drill some more holes.

If I recall corectly, you tighten until they quit feeling "mushy" and really tighten up. Depending on the hole clearence, debris in the hole, hardness of the concrete etc. I suppose that could vary by a turn or 2. The ones I used got very solid. They felt like J bolts that were poured into the slab.

[Aaron]

A few thoughts that come to mind.....

1) did you use a sharp bit? A dull bit drills oversize holes.
2) did you pre-drill the hole? Starting with a slightly smaller hole helps the final bit maintain the proper diameter. (like a reamer)
3) did you blow the dust out of the hole?
4) did you have them at the proper depth?

I use Redhead branded wedge anchors frequently. I have to beat them in with a hammer, and I have yet to have one slip or fail.

[Bodfish]

Originally posted by Aaron
A few thoughts that come to mind.....

1) did you use a sharp bit? A dull bit drills oversize holes.

A new 1/2" bit. But I don't have a hammer drill, so I used a abit of water and had to use a chisel, too.

2) did you pre-drill the hole? Starting with a slightly smaller hole helps the final bit maintain the proper diameter. (like a reamer)

NO, the ones I drilled were all I wanted to do!

3) did you blow the dust out of the hole?
Yup.

4) did you have them at the proper depth?

Yes, again. 3.5 " if I recall.....Some were 4".

I use Redhead branded wedge anchors frequently. I have to beat them in with a hammer, and I have yet to have one slip or fail.