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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Ft. Worth Texas
    Posts
    30

    Hobart Cyber-Wave 300 S

    I got this welder of all places at a local scrapyard. There were a bunch of City work trucks bringing in various metal scrap. I am not sure if they were gutting an old facility or what but it sure looked like it.
    But anyways it was complete and looked to be in good shape. I am setting up a 25hp rotary phase convertor to test it.
    There is a cover for the remote missing and it has to be there to "energize" the unit the label says.
    I figure before I can test it I have to come up with one of those covers or the remote? Or would it work in stick mode without it so I could test it?
    Any idea what that part is called or maybe a part number and/or source?








  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Aiken SC
    Posts
    320
    Again, nice find Scalli. Took you long enough to drag your butt over here. BAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAANZAI!
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  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Ft. Worth Texas
    Posts
    30
    Thanks for the heads up about this forum. Hopefully somebody here will have the answers and be able to look beyond the envy and give a bro a hand Maybe I should not have mentioned where I found it. But it did cost me $195.80 so it's not like it was free..... this may not be helping my cause.... I will shut up now

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Boulder, Colorado
    Posts
    167
    The Cyberwave is a very unique machine. It is one of the only 3 phase AC/DC tig welders. If your willing to tune it regularly, i think that you will enjoy it.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Ft. Worth Texas
    Posts
    30
    I got the rotary phase convertor working yesterday and I fired the welder up after work in stick mode!!! It welds like a champ!
    At first only the fan hd come on and signs did not look that good.
    Then we pulled the top cover and looked at the schematic and found it was set for 440V We changed up these little flat copper strips to bridge the correct connectors as well as moved a spade connector on a transformer and BAM!!! we was cookin!!!

    I will take action pics later. I had brought my daughter's car to the shop to fix a brake problem and forgot to grab the camera out of my truck

    I had a 1/8" 6011 rod and because we were so unfamliar with the settings I blew through a 5/16" plate like it was a carbon arc (gouger)!!!
    Once we backed it down it burned smoother than any stick I ever ran. **** near effortless.
    Am I happy? **** I am so ecstatic it is not even funny
    I need to pick up a TIG torch and get a manual.

    Anybody have a manual that covers this beast?

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Ft. Worth Texas
    Posts
    30

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Aiken SC
    Posts
    320
    Is your right foot a little warm in that pic?
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  8. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Ft. Worth Texas
    Posts
    30
    Fortunately that was not as bad as it looked because I didn't feel it at the time

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    Clark County, NV
    Posts
    5,078
    You did that right in front of your old pal Stickmate? You have no heart.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Ft. Worth Texas
    Posts
    30
    Well he took it real well. He knows he at least doesn't have to have an alternate power source fired up just to buzz a bead

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Location
    SW VA.
    Posts
    89
    Did not see a shorting cap in your flick. It is the same Mil Spec connector that is used on remote (pedal/finger) cord without cord and instead of strain relief it just has a cap on end where so cord goes. As for pin-out and fixed resistors you need to check for any special mods for that serial#, however the shorting cap from my cyber wave (and pedal) works just fine on the cyber tigs (all three). I had all this written down somewhere, if it turns up I will post. Yes, I have a cap on dasboard of truck, got it same place (different state) you got your machine, however I was a few hours too late to save that machine. Nevertheless, try and find some documentation. Have fun.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Ft. Worth Texas
    Posts
    30
    Originally posted by lranch
    Did not see a shorting cap in your flick. It is the same Mil Spec connector that is used on remote (pedal/finger) cord without cord and instead of strain relief it just has a cap on end where so cord goes. As for pin-out and fixed resistors you need to check for any special mods for that serial#, however the shorting cap from my cyber wave (and pedal) works just fine on the cyber tigs (all three). I had all this written down somewhere, if it turns up I will post. Yes, I have a cap on dasboard of truck, got it same place (different state) you got your machine, however I was a few hours too late to save that machine. Nevertheless, try and find some documentation. Have fun.

    A company called Cantwell here in FW that repairs welders did not have the cap but they found the pinout and told me to short pins A and B. That was for the Model 100 series panel. I guess that is wht you mean by special mods by serial number because they had to know which slide in panel it had to find the pinout.
    They didn't mention resistance and it would suck if that was a oversite.
    I would be willing to buy your extra cap

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Location
    SW VA.
    Posts
    89
    If you plan to Tig you will need a footpedal or fingertrol (the shorting cap allows you to tig without either) however you will not have any fine control, the most important aspect in percision welding. You will be better served locating one or both of these and worry about the cap when you restore that dragon. By the way, a Hobart "Starsky and Hutch" era pedal might prove difficult to locate and then buy. As my waver is at work#1 I will confirm the pot value and Mil Spec#, then you can, and this works fine, convert a pedal for that machine. This is as simple as changing the "pot", this is a potentiometer (lika a volume control only with a linear tapper instead of an audio). Typicaly a Burns single turn, about 10$. Also, the pot in the pedal you can locate might be pretty close and will not require changeout. Solder three wires, high side, low side, and wiper. Two wires on reed switch. Then solder on Mil Spec, five wires at machine end. This sounds very complicated but any welding supply shop,.........well, a dirty looking one with thugs at the counter, could rig this for you or get you one madeup. I have a Miller pedal so done. If you cannot find anything, I have 27 miller foot pedals (the good ones, no plastic) we can get you one.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Boulder, Colorado
    Posts
    167
    I also have a bunch of foot controls. Most are the big bad aluminum units that were original to that machine. If you want one, let me know.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Ft. Worth Texas
    Posts
    30
    **** I am still laughing about the "thugs behind the counter"!!! Those are the ones I like to deal with. Those clean cut sales guys got their knowledge from everywhere but the real world
    I like dealing with the guys that know what they are talking about even if they do have a shoot from the hip way of telling you
    As far as pedals go I appreciate the info on that. The factory Hobart pedal is the most tempting. PM me on how much you will take for one with shipping to 76148. I could PayPal the money if you have an account.

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