Various questions

[Frodo]

Hi everyone, another FNG here with questions. I have purchased a HH 135 (220 volt is hard for me to get). I have not used it yet, but plan to practice soon.

1) I found this site on the web: www.wirepropellant.com It sells a system to modify your MIG welder and claims to feed aluminum wire as well as a spool gun. I was wondering if anyone has any input on the system. It sells for $195 which is a lot cheaper than a spool gun.

2) I see that the HH 135 has a setting for 1/8" aluminum, but not for 18 or 16 guage. I don't understand why it could not weld the thinner stuff.

3) I want to build a welding table, but it needs to fold up and tuck away in the garage so I want it light. I am thinking of using a fireproof floor backing (sort of like sheet rock, but made out of some kind of concrete deriviative). I understand that it will not work as a ground for me, but are there other reasons for using steel tops that I am not aware of?

4) I haven't been able to find a welding course here in Las Vegas, so it looks like I will be self taught for awhile. Anyone have advice on videos and books that I should check out?

5) Anyone know of a good welding supply store in Las Vegas that I should check out?

I'm sure that I will have a lot more questions when I start practicing my welds, but that is all I have for now. Thanks for your time.

Frodo
http://www.wirepropellant.com

[Aaron]

I don't know that the wire propellant system will do anything but empty your pocket. I was never able to get a very stable bead going (using aluminum) with my HH175, so I wonder how well the HH135 will do. I weld 1/8" and up with my MM251 all the time now, no spool gun or special liner required.

The primary reason you don't see settings for welding thin aluminum with the MIG is because typically that is done with a pulse-MIG or a TIG machine. It's hard to control the puddle in the thin aluminum stuff. I still want to try it, but I'm having a hard time locating material.

Maybe MAC will jump on here soon. He is right in your area.

[Wyoming]

Frodo,

I'll let somebody with more knowledge answer most of your questions. On #3 I'll say that the cement backer board might not be the best choice. The reason I say this is that cutting or welding on a cement floor will often cause the moisture in the cement to violently convert to steam and "pop" concrete chips outward. Whether the backer board would do this is open to question....try it on a test piece and it may perform with no problems whatsoever.

Biggest reason with going with a steel top is for the ability to securely clamp the work to the tabletop. Any distortion you can keep out of the welding process the better. Clamping to a cement backer board probably won't give you what you are hoping for as far as longevity and rigidity go.

[Bob Sigmon]

You can also drill the steel top to be able to bolt things to it (Vise, scroll benders, etc).

You can also tack weld items to it during fabrication and then cut it loose and grind the tack off the top when complete.

It will also act as somewhat of a heat sink. (Probably the least important issue)

Just some thoughts.

Bob Sigmon

[cutter]

I am not very impressed with companies that are ashamed to show pictures of their products. I scoured wirepropellant.com and they refuse to display whatever the heck it is they're selling.
Send them 200 bucks so I can see it? Screw them. But then I don't buy lottery tickets, either.

[JoeHobart]

I'd save your 200$. I feed aluminum with my HH175 all the time, its just a matter of getting a new liner, and being very diligant on keeping the cable and machine oriented to never bend.

Aluminum is very difficult to weld, and the MIG process makes it darn near impossible to do on thin stuff. When i was in MIG class, we had a very nice machine with all the fancy feeders, pulse and all that jazz, and i was never able to get a weld on anything smaller than 12g. The problem is the heat, it will just blow through it or goosepoop with no fusion. If you need to do sheet aluminum, you'll need to investigate another process like TIG or OA.

I use a wood workbench as my primary welding bench. I scavanged a 20x40 peice of 1/8" plate, which i use as a surface topper for work that requires laying flat on the bench. There are many many many black marks in the top of my bench though. You WILL ignite the wood if you weld anywhere near it. I have to have the dual-purpose equipment (woodworking) due to space. Someone said they use an aluminum flashing skin on thier worktop, keeps the metals from sticking. I agree with the other posts, you want a surface that is rigid, for clamping purposes and general ..er.. adjustment with mallets. If you build a good solid table, you will be able to use it for the large amount of 'beating' on it you will be doing.

Check this video out http://www.weldingvideos.com/video4.html I have the OA ones, and i found them very well done. Others have posted shining reviews for the MIG video.


Trust the door chart, use proper stickout (3/8") and work on your travel speed and gun positioning. Take some pics once you get comfortable with the system, and we can give you some advice.