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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Connecticut
    Posts
    14

    110 Volt Mig Welder - Info ?

    Hi...


    Looking for your input on 110 volt Mig welders... up to 20 amp draw... (or stick welders if they come in 110 v)

    Don't want 220v... want portability and to run off a 110v gas powered generator...

    Which ones are the best ? Key things to look or look-out for ? What they will and won't do...

    I previously had a lower-end 220 volt Lincoln AC stick welder... and a set of oxy-acetylene torches... so I have some welding experience...


    Thanks...

    Dave...

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    Clark County, NV
    Posts
    5,078
    The 120V MIGs are great for GMAW up to 1/8" material. On FCAW, they are great up to 3/16".

    If you go SMAW and have to "stick" with 120V, the only viable option is an inverter, which can be pricey. My Maxstar 140 STR has the ability to stick most projects from 120V power, even though I mostly feed it 240V. Pay close attention to duty cycle when shopping different brands if this is the way you go.

    Can you give us more of an idea what you will be welding? You are really limiting yourself if you can't get 240V power.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    ct
    Posts
    1,392

    Thumbs up NUTMEG STATE

    hey whats up ?

    here are some questions for you..

    how much welding have you done ?

    how much $ do you have to spend ?

    what do you plan on welding ?

    let me know, brian
    God Bless America

    [

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    NY
    Posts
    41
    I have a Millermatic 135. I like it a LOT. The basic deal is that you can't weld thick stuff with it. I have no problem welding 1/8th inch and you can make a pretty substantial gizmo with 1/8th. It's about perfect for thin stuff. I use with the shielding gas. Haven't tried it without. We, my son uses it too, have made grindrails for skateboards and misc stuff for go-karts. It runs off of a 20 or 30 amp outlet in the garage. If you also weld in the garage be SURE you avoid flammable stuff like gasoline cans. Explosions bad, though I haven't tried it myself.
    Millermatic 135

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Connecticut
    Posts
    14
    how much welding have you done ?

    Took a gas-torch welding/brazing class... Brazed with that and welded with a consumer grade 220v Lincoln AC stick welder occasionally for 4 years...


    how much $ do you have to spend ?
    Up to ~$1,000... I no longer have any welding accessories... like a helmet...

    what do you plan on welding ?
    Jigs/fixtures for woodworking... storage... lawn & garden equipment repair... maybe some for a compact utility tractor add-ons...

    Can the 110v Mig weld over 1/4" thick with multiple passes ?


    Thanks...

    Dave...

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Bulverde, tx.
    Posts
    3,178
    DAVE IN CT
    I have a mm135 too. I sometimes run it off my generator ( Honda EB 3500 ). I run it off the full power plug. It works fine as long as you're not too hot ....say # 7.5 or below on voltage. For the thicker stuff, you'd have to use fluxcore wire. I suppose if you were careful, you could burn 1/4" with a couple of passes. The weld would be a cold one I think- wouldn't do anything important or critical with it on 1/4 or up. The mm135 has infinite voltage while the hh135 is tapped. Some say the taps are easier to use. Either one could be picked up for under $600.00 I believe. BRWELDER.COM has the mm135 & cart for a little over $600.00 and the hh135 for $498.00 with free shipping on both. Hope this helps.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    Albuquerque, NM
    Posts
    4,986
    You said you have 1000$, My OPINION would be HH135 (500), or a MM135 (600) you will need a C25 tank, a 80CF would be a good size and run you about 150$ (or less), I would recommend an auto darkning helmet and you might as well get a good one (200-300). That would get you to 950-1050 and then there's gloves, wire, metal to get a cart built with and other misc stuff. You could lower that if you got a deal on the welder, a decent Hobart/Miller helmet can be had for about 150 (or you could go with a fixed shade #10 or so for about 30) and shop the tanks at some place you would like to trade in the future, cause you will be needing gas every so often. I started with a HH135 and would have never upgraded but I had a need to do 1/4" fairly often and didn't want to have to use flux wire. Let me qualify that by saying there is certinly nothing wrong with flux wire, it's just not my preference. Good luck and have fun.....
    Last edited by Sundown; 02-18-2004 at 07:52 PM.
    Regards, George

    Hobart Handler 210 w/DP3035 - Great 240V small Mig
    Hobart Handler 140 - Great 120V Mig
    Hobart Handler EZ125 - IMO the best 120V Flux Core only machine

    Miller Dynasty 200DX with cooler of my design, works for me
    Miller Spectrum 375 - Nice Cutter

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    ct
    Posts
    1,392

    dave

    check out the comparo chart on millers site, i have the hh135 and its good but i much rather have the mm135 ( its built better)

    for your needs the 135 machine will be GREAT

    i would get the welder first, and a good 4 and 1/2 grinder to go with it

    if you are only going to be welding once and awhile i wouldnt recomend the 300.00 helmet, put that money into tools

    good luck, brian
    God Bless America

    [

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    Whitehall Michigan
    Posts
    32

    110 Volt Welder

    You didn't mention the wattage output of your gasoline powered generator. That will have an effect on your weld output.
    rlc

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Brethren, Mi
    Posts
    11,282
    I tend to find the need to be portable highly over rated. If the genset doesnt have 240V on it there may be a problem anyway as most anything with enough power to run one has it. If I was stranded and the machine was free I would use a 135. But if I had to buy one, even one for light utility it would be the 175. By the very nature of its design its soooooooo much better. Its actualy got near twice the power,, an air compressor there is no substitute for HP.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Connecticut
    Posts
    14
    Thanks for the great info. folks !


    Generator I'm considering (Yamaha YG2800) outputs 2,600 watts continous... ~21 amps... has 20amp & 30amp outlets...

    I have an unimproved lot w/ no electricity that I'll be working on for a few years... thinking being able to weld there will be a plus... but not an absolute necessity...

    Maybe a MM 175 is a good alternative if I keep the welder in the shop only...

    I'll check out the specs on that... already checking the MM & HH 135's...

    If I go 220v shop based... might be better off with an AC/DC stick welder...
    Already have some AC stick experience...


    Thanks again...

    Dave...
    Last edited by Dave___in___CT; 02-19-2004 at 06:49 AM.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Bulverde, tx.
    Posts
    3,178
    Dave,
    Here are some specs that might help with the generator question. According to Miller a MM135 would need 2900 - 3000 watts @ 120v 20 amps - MM175 -4500w @ 240v 20 amps.
    Hobart- HH135- 2900- 3000w @ 120v 20a - HH175 4600w @ 240v 20a. Yamaha's,like Honda's, are pricey. You could go to a Generac and get double the output for half the $$$$. I had a Generac 4500XL for 8 years and couldn't kill it! ( Well not untill a tractor ran over it, but that's another story. ) Hopefully this will help you. There is nothing worse than having a generator that can't handle the load. Mainly because you never find out untill it's too late.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Location
    Connecticut/Pennsylvania
    Posts
    35
    I would definately recommend the HH135. I have been using one for about three years and it works great. As it has been said before, it is great up to 1/8-inch with C25 and 3/16-inch fluxcore. This machine works excellent unless you move outside of this range.

    You could weld up to 1/4-inch with multiple passes, BUT the weld will definately be cold. I have done this before for ornamental, NON-LOADED components ONLY. Welding above the unnits capability does not produce a strong weld at all.


    Chris
    Christical

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