Paint booth

[Sberry]

I have a good system. Its nice to be able to roll the walls up to manuver parts in and out.

[mrimpact]

you using auto grade enamel?...curious what kind?

[Sberry]

here it is down, the fan pulls the curtains shut causing negative pressure on the booth, I open a building door so there is no neg on the building and the warm air from the ceiling goes over top of the end tarp causing downdraft.

[Sberry]

I use Dupont Industrial Imron on the things that work or sit outside. I use Dupont Corlar epoxy primer on most things. It fills real good and has super adheasion even if the topcoat gets chipped. 83$ a sprayable gallon, green, factory pak color. It has super weathering properties and is highly chemical, gas and oil resistant.

[Sberry]

I moved the parts near the stove now that they have dried some. I rigged a fan on a ladder after this pic was taken that will blow warm air across them and to the tractor in the booth. I am going to let this harden a couple full days, probably have my man come in Friday for reassembly.

[Sberry]

this isnt a great pic of the front weight. But it was nice to have it on a wheeled cart to paint and roll near the stove.

[Sberry]

This was going to be tonights little job but it got too late. This is most of the misc black stuff for the job. There are some items on the tractor yet but they will get brushed on. I go back with a touchup brush and paint the knobs, etc, really makes them look sharp as does masking properly, such as the grommets on tie rod ends and hoses, belts and certqain fittings on the engine. Takes about an hr or so. If it is sposed to be a black piece of rubber then I mask,, it dont get green. I take a lot of the stuff right off,, the starter and alt. Its going to get a new plastic nose hood that has been broke for 20 yrs, 2 new tie rod ends, a bushing in the front end, its all been loosened, we ran ou of time, new seat and stickers. Also a battery box liner and a new custom rear wire loom.

[Ryel]

Very nice; How did you set up the fan system and how does it work without getting over-spray throughout the room?

[PaintAnything]

Looks great. I'd like more details on how the walls actually work and how the fans are setup.

I thought negative pressure wasn't great because it pulls dust into the booth?

Whatever works though!

-Scott

[Sberry]

I believe the code calls for neg pressure on the booth with no neg pressure on the building. I have very little overspray problem as its easy to make enough wind to move it right out. I also start at the back and work my way up toward the fan, it is installed in my loading dock door which I rarely use and the whole fan panel removes via 4 screws. The curtains work by having a rope attached the ceiling then it goes down around there pipe and curtain then back to the ceiling and on thru a pully. the pipe rolls winding up the curtain, kind of like a yo, yo. I used 3 ropes on the long one, a 40 footer. I wanted a system that allowed one piece plastic. I could have easily used 2 ropes, its light. I used 3/16 nylon. You want neg pressure on the booth so it is drawing the fumes out. If it was pressure or none the fumes would go out everywhere. I havnt put a magnometer on it but I can tell its working from the way the curtains pull in when I kick the fan. A commercial booth would have filters on the intake, to keep dust out and to help build some neg pressure. I will see if I can post a pic how it rolls up. The curtain is taped to the ceiling and at the bottom to the pipe. The ropes just go under t and saddle it making the pipe tumble and roll the plastic. One reason I used 3 ropes was to keep the plastic bunched up, but its not a problem, it rolls nice and even on the pipe. Had a bud did this with a 2x4 on a small scale, the board tumbled well enough to work, but the alum pipe is the thing, straight and light.

[PaintAnything]

Thanks for the additional info. I think I'll pick up some PVC pipe and try that setup in my garage.

Thanks-Scott

[ScottDFW]

Originally posted by PaintAnything
Thanks for the additional info. I think I'll pick up some PVC pipe and try that setup in my garage.

Thanks-Scott

Hey Scott...

Very cool name for the website...i looked over the samples and think your stuff looks really good. I paint in my garage as well...car stuff, mod parts, my mower ... what I did was get sections of that foam insulation (for free since they are still building in my neighborhood...and put them in a simple wood frame about 24" high which the door closes down and seals on. There are 2 fiber a/c filters in one side, and a good box fan in the other (with a filter on it too). I run a .99 drop cloth from home depot down the majority of the middle of the garage (2-car) and the draft system works really well.

Just another idea for everyone...

btw, Those tractor parts sure look bright!

-scott[IMG]pic[/IMG] [IMG]http://[/IMG]

[Sberry]

Yes that is an excellent idea. I was jus looking at the panels I had painted flat and I had them next to the curtain, they should have been more to the middle of the room, I must have kicked around a whiff of dirt. Even though I am not real sanitary I dont usually have much dirt problem.. Scott. I am sure your setup works good and I would like to see a couple pics. There may be a room for a blend of systems, I forgot where you were from? Ideally there would be a curtain seperating the paint area with air filters above it so the air drawn in is as warm as it can be and up off the floor to minimize dust. About 4 filters wide would be great. You could have heating equipment in the shop side safely as long as it was vented. Then use the box fan setup under the door you are using, but use 2 of them. Open your walk door for air inlet for the building. This is going to give downdraft. Now, turn on fans and keep blocking the air intake filters off untill the curtain is sucking in, like a sail. That should be the right pull. The large intake to the building is going ot insure no neg pressure there but there will be a vacuum effect on the booth. We need an engineer here to tell us if this assumption is correct. Especially about guaging the pressure, but it should be visable. Here is a pic with the endwall of mine about half way down, maybe you can see the rigging. The amount of air intake above it matches the fan that I am using - any leakage around the perimeter. Could install intake filters up there also.

[Sberry]

The reason I was thinking of this is that there is alot of painting in small buildings and it certainly could be done better and safer if there was a good cheap setup for it. Some designs to copy. I am going to tune my own some. I want to put manual shutter control on and variable speed motor to slow down the velocity when I dont need it so it doesnt gobbe so much heat and am planning on putting a 100,000 btu infared tube heater in. I was contemplating a light bar with flo's on it so the elevations could be changed. Better yet might be a couple vapor lights of 400 watts ea in there instead of the 15 spotlights I have now,, ha.

[big rig guy]

Nice setup Sberry, wet the floor if your having dust probs.

Go with the flo lights as the quartz lights get hot, also a fire hazard with the overspray. Supposed to be enclosed so as to be explosion proof, same as heaters and fan motors etc. Ive done it a thousand times like your doing there, but just wanted to point out the safety hazards.

Like the idea of the variable sutters and exhaust motor speed so you can fine tune for negative pressure.

Optimum would be air flow in to equal air flow out. Whereby the air flow out would be replaced at the same amount of air coming in, preferably with dry, warm and clean filtered air.
Our booth, feels like a slight breeze when operating. No rush of air, but exchanges the air in the booth rapidly.
Filter your air out, with furnace filters if you can, cheap to replace and will stop the overspray on the truck parked outside.

Imron can be accelerated as well. Check with your jobber.

Your paint work looks good, shop looks good too. Post most of your painting jobs etc. Keep up the good work.