New Oxy Acetylene Rig = Lots of Q&A

[Ohio Mike]

I managed to buy myself a early Christmas present this week. I found a Oxy Acetylene rig for sale with a set of customer owned bottles. The cylinders are a 125 Oxy and 145 Acetylene. The torch handle is a Harris 1000 and may be OK but the regulators (Firepower 150's) are well abused and the gauges are all mashed up and the hoses need replaced but for the price of the package I can't complain at all, I know what the tanks cost.

So basically I started to shop for a new torch outfit rather than try to fix what I have and piece it together (I also need tips etc). I don't want cheap junk I want something brand name but I don't want to spend a fortune either. I was thinking of a Victor Performer which includes Victor's ESS3 Edge Series Medium Duty Regulators and a 100FC Torch Handle and grade T hoses (priced at about $220). But it is quite a bit more money than the Victor Firepower Medium Duty set that includes the 250 Medium Duty Regulators and a WH270FC-FS Torch handle (Priced at $160). What I don't know is how much difference is there between those two torch handles? I'm guessing the 100FC is more main stream (better parts support). I also saw a Smith priced pretty good and I know Smith is great equipment but I don't know what kind of tips a Smith uses. I know I can get the victor tips locally even on weekends. That is important to me as most of my work is weekend stuff. So I'm open to suggestions.

Also of interest is the tip size. It would appear by using a 145 tank if I apply the 1/10th run for burn rate I could use a tip that would consume 14.5 SCFH or less correct? That would translate into a maximum of a #1 cutting tip (3/4" capacity) which is all I could possibly ever what to do. Mostly it will be 3/8" or less maybe the occasional 1/2 inch stuff. Still trying to find a chart to see how big of a rosebud I could run, I know those are gas hungry.

So guys let me know what you think. I also have a birthday coming up and a new outfit may be coming my way.

[monckywrench]

If someone gave me a set of Edges, I'd sell them and use classic style regs instead. They are a cosmetic redesign which is more complex but uses less brass. I can get classic regs rebuilt cheap all day if I don't feel like doing them myself.

I buy spare tips online in advance to get them cheaper. No need for weekend purchases that way.

I have much love for the Smith Toughcut, but the Firepower should serve you well. Smith uses Smith tips which don't interchange with Victor.

I'd get an LP rosebud rather than acetylene, but you may not need one. You can heat with cutting tips too.

Try the largest LP cutting tip you can run and don't hit the cutting oxygen lever.

I cut off the fittings from old hoses. They make very good torch and regulator fitting thread protectors!

Throw up pics of the stuff you don't want in the For Sale forum. It's a way to get more torch money you can use elsewhere.

[Ohio Mike]

I was actually considering using LP for some operations but somehow left that out. That's why I considered the "T" grade hoses a plus. You're probably right about the Firepower setup, however it appears to be back ordered at many locations. And I'm still wondering about the WH270FC-FS torch handle. If I go with the Smith it would have to be the cheap set. I can't see spending $300+ on something I'll use occasionally.

In doing my market research I found out Harris is owned by Lincoln, Victor is Thermadyne, and Smith is owned by Illinois Tool Works (ITW) which of course owns Miller and Hobart. From that I'd guess that the Hobart kit is a Smith outfit, however the description for it says "Medium Duty Victor Style Cutting Tip". I may have to call Hobart and ask. I just don't want to buy something that will be hard to get parts and accessories for.

[monckywrench]

Hobart, Harris, Uniweld, and others etc make Victor-compatible kits. The patents which gave rise to different tip designs are long-expired.

If it doesn't say "Smith", it isn't. They prize their brand identity.

None of the listed items will be hard to get parts for.

[usmcpop]

A few years back, the Hobart kit was a Smith (at least had their part numbers on it). Just when we got around to buying one, they discontinued that in favor of the Victor style.

Keep your eye on Craigslist. I just got a near-new Victor 315FC handle with CA2460 cutting attachment for $40. Awhile back, bought two heavy-duty Victor regs, a new T-rated hose, a pair of Koike quick connects and a Uniweld torch handle with a Victor straight cutting attachment for $75. Just missed a Smith torch for $40.

[Roger]

Victors new now more than 5 years old cutting torch looks like a Smith torch design to me. It even has mixer in torch tip that Smith uses.

[Northweldor]

"Also of interest is the tip size. It would appear by using a 145 tank if I apply the 1/10th run for burn rate I could use a tip that would consume 14.5 SCFH or less correct? That would translate into a maximum of a #1 cutting tip (3/4" capacity) which is all I could possibly ever what to do. Mostly it will be 3/8" or less maybe the occasional 1/2 inch stuff. Still trying to find a chart to see how big of a rosebud I could run, I know those are gas hungry."

It's 1/7, not 1/10, and using large rosebuds with small bottles can give you all sorts of problems. Search this board for "Acetylene Maximum Draw", and "Rosebud".
With a medium-duty Victor outfit, you can do occasional severance quality cuts on 3/4".

[usmcpop]

1/7 is old school, 1/10 is the new rule. Take your pick.

EDIT: Found this:

... the Compressed Gas Association (CGA) has changed the withdrawal rate (see CGA G1 5.3.3.13):

To minimize the withdrawal of liquid solvent, acetylene should be withdrawn from the cylinder at a rate not to exceed one-tenth (1/10) of the capacity of the cylinder per hour during intermittent use. For full withdrawal of the contents of the cylinder on a continuous basis, the flow rate should be no more than one-fifteenth (1/15) of the capacity of the cylinder per hour.

[Northweldor]

1/7 is old school, 1/10 is the new rule. Take your pick.

Thanks. Didn't know that.

[Stick-man]

I quit using acetylene all together. I use propane. I don't have to worry about withdrawel rates, it's alot cheaper, 20lb BBQ cylinders last a LONG time and are easy for mobile jobs, and on sunday you can find an exchange ANYWHERE. I keep a 100lb'er in the shop. I did however keep a small 75 cu ft acetylene, in case I ever want to try gas welding.

[Sberry]

I used LP a lot back in the day before we had plasma, in the shop had 100# bottle. I used and still do one unit on my pickup, small bottle, occasional use but agree that 20# goes a long way but you still have withdraw issues, get cold enough in the winter and 20# is about all it will do to feed a number 1 tip and if its really cold can easily starve it.

[Stick-man]

but you still have withdraw issues, get cold enough in the winter and 20# is about all it will do to feed a number 1 tip and if its really cold can easily starve it.

You're absolutely correct. I was not thinking of the extreme's, like the extreme cold. But then you just throw the cylinder in the truck by the heater for a bit. But I personally don't like working outdoors when it's cold enough to starve a torch!

[monckywrench]

But I personally don't like working outdoors when it's cold enough to starve a torch!

If I want to see snow I'll Google it.