My employment of a tad more than two years now puts me in
anywhere from 10% to 50% involvement in welding.
In other jobs over the years this would have been mig instead of tig.
Stick in some cases too.
I'm convinced that you can get into more trouble as a welder
attempting machining, than a machinist attempting welding.
This due to the limitation inherent to the lack of welding skill
and experience, limitting the usable outcome severely.
Machining can allow you to get quite a bit further allong
before you realize you have damaged your work, your machinery,
your tools, or even set yourself up for a significant injury.
Found a Bridgeport or a Tree or maybe a surface grinder.
"Stoning" the table / chuck is just another area that can be
done "ALL WRONG"!
First is the wrong stones.
Soft stones will take too much off before you know it.
Use only hard stones like these.
http://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/No...ne-P69C25.aspx (6" max !!)
Use these only for stoning your machine workholding surfaces.
The stones must remain flat.
Second, stone the entire table / chuck, not just the area to receive a part.
DO NOT bare down! just move uniformly over the entire table "feeling"
for any indications of nicks, dents or gouges. ONLY then rub a tad harder,
untill the stone again feels uniform in the amount of drag.
use only the fine side (brown) and only the course side (black)
having found a high spot, to begin to brake into it.
As soon as prudent switch back to the fine side.
If you do not first thuroughly clean your table, your stone will load up with debriss.
A little debriss in the stone actually helps prolong the life and flattness of the table.
BUT only just a little.
I love 409 (red lable) applied to my stones, it clears the stones and makes a great
"glide" feel, so as to best "read" the table. Once done, spay WD
or fave preservent on your table or risk rusting.
Where to Buy
Service & Support