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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Ohio
    Posts
    6

    Jeep ZJ bumper build

    My factory bumpers have always been something I didn’t like. And, the aftermarket tow hitch was always hanging too low in the rear, dragging on everything. So, I finally decided it was time to do something about this.

    I started this whole project by heading out to the store, and coming home with a Hobart Handler 187 MIG welder. After adding a C25 gas bottle to it, and a 10lb spool of solid wire, I was all set to start on my bumper build.

    I had 3 main requirements with this project. First, I wanted to try to maintain a visual appearance similar to the factory plastic cover. Second, I wanted the hitch receiver integrated into the bumper, and raised to regain ground clearance in the rear. Third, it had to remain removable in case of damage that may need repaired, or upgrades/modifications.

    The build itself began with removing the rear plastic cover, to find the metal bumper completely rusted off and falling to the floor. That just made the removal easier for me, and everything was tossed in the corner. I then removed the hitch, completely opening up the rear end. Now I had something to start with.

    After wire brushing the hitch’s mounts and repainting them, I reinstalled them, using a ¼” thick backing plate inside the unibody rails, rather than the original studs. This should help distribute the loads much better underneath. I used ½” grade 8 hardware everywhere requiring a bolt on this project.

    I then took ¼” plate, and made two main arms that will come off these mounts, and run clear through the bumper to hold shackles (or D-Rings, if you prefer). This will provide for a straight pull to the unibody rails, hopefully minimizing any potential of ripping the metal down there. These plates also provided the location to weld the 2x2 ¼” wall square tube that will be the main attachment point for the receiver tube. I tacked all of this together on the vehicle to make sure all the measurements were accurate, then pulled everything off to do the finish welding. Since this will make up the entire support framework, I wanted this all fully welded before moving any farther.





    Once I had the framework welded, I mounted it back on the Jeep and started cutting and tacking what I would call the ‘skin’ of the bumper. This is all made out of 3/16” sheet steel. This took a lot of cutting, grinding, staring into space, and rework to get everything how I wanted it, and clearanced properly. I think the pictures can speak for themselves for a while…









    Once everything was tacked how I wanted it, it came off the Jeep and went on the jack stands (broke man’s equivalent of a welding table…) to be welded. Every seam was welded from both sides to guarantee penetration, and make sure it could be ground flush. Plus it was an excuse to use the welder more and get used to it.





    After a couple of solid evenings of welding, it was ready to be ground smooth on the exterior. Two days of grinding later, I could be seen re-welding on half the seams when I found all the spots I missed, or made swiss-cheese instead of a solid bead. Another day of grinding, and it was ready for primer and paint.



    And so the finished product ended up looking like this, all mounted.


  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Gulfport, Florida
    Posts
    1,960
    Well now you're a professional grinder.
    I think the design looks good. I would have used heavier flat bar or channel for the frame and shackle mounts tho, maybe even 1/4" for the skin and reinforced it around the sides, that would help if the sides got pushed against.
    But over all you done a good job..

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Ohio
    Posts
    6
    Thank you urch55. I have to agree about becoming a pro with the grinder!

    I agree on the frame, and actually figure on redoing that portion at some point. I will most likely use 2x3" tube for the frame, which fits inside the unibody rails nicely. And hopefully be able to find some 1/2-3/4" pieces I can use for the shackle mounts.

    As far as the skin goes, 3/16" is what the local steel supplier had in cheap drops Plus, I looked at what some of the big manufacturers were using, and it seemed to be 3/16" overall. I figured if that's good enough for them to sell to me at $600+ for a bumper, why not use it?

    I do have some gussets behind everything, but noticed I need a few more, specifically around the sides where you mentioned. That will probably be taken care of some evening in the next few weeks.

    Being that this is my first bumper build, and really my first major welding project, I definitely learned a lot. Next on the list, the front bumper...

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    155
    Nice work very professional job.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Wichita, KS, USA
    Posts
    4,106
    Looks nicely done, and a good choice for a first project. That said, I agree that the strap where the clevises are attached could be a little heavier. I don't think they are going to break real easily unless you try to yank on them real hard with a chain, but they will certainly bend to whatever direction suits them. Simply bolting a piece of heavier material alongside it will help with that, but it will provide a place for moisture to accumulate in time.

    My thoughts on the thickness are that you can make the skin thicker, but when you hit something hard, something, somewhere is going to give. It may as well be the bumper that can be removed and fixed rather than the "frame" of the Jeep. You also have to consider that anything you add is going to make the whole vehicle heavier, so you could build it out of 1" plate and it won't bend, buy you'll need extra suspension to keep it from dragging!


    Dave
    Still building my new old truck - see the progress!
    http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/65...-coe-idea.html
    http://www.hobartwelders.com/weldtal...ad.php?t=27017

    Red (not lincoln) inverter TIG/Stick
    MM180
    SP125+

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Jackson
    Posts
    673
    Nice project, nice fab work, looks good man!

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Posts
    12
    Looks like a pro
    Iron Man 230
    Ac/dc stickmate

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Ohio
    Posts
    6
    Thanks for all the replies everyone. I've definitely taken everything into consideration on the front bumper I have begun to build for this Jeep. Hopefully that will be completed in a couple of weeks here...

  9. #9
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Suffolk Virginia
    Posts
    1,737
    Looks very good. Exactly what you want and you built it. As blacksmiths, we can hammer or file to get it right; hammering is more fun. Same for welding, you can weld or grind and I suspect your welding will improve.
    Blacksmith
    Stickmate LX AC/DC
    Big cheap (Chinese) Anvil
    Hand cranked coal forge
    Freon bottle propane forge
    HH 210 and bottle of C25

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Posts
    12
    Did you use a plasma torch to make such nice cuts?
    Iron Man 230
    Ac/dc stickmate

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Ohio
    Posts
    6
    Quote Originally Posted by daniel1381 View Post
    Did you use a plasma torch to make such nice cuts?
    Actually, the entire rear bumper minus 2 somewhat complex cuts was done with a cutoff wheel on a 4.5" angle grinder. Went through a lot of cutoff wheels...

    The front bumper I built (and still need to get pictures posted of) was 99% plasma cutter, and made me wonder why I didn't find a way to do that the first time around.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Mo. Via Lancs. England
    Posts
    20
    Re mounts, these are the mounts I make for the rear Range Rover bumpers I make...
    The clevis (1" solid stock) gets through welded into the brackets, and the brackets have nuts welded onto them for easier removal.
    mounting-bkt.jpg
    new-style-bumper.jpg
    My XJ bumper is along the same lines as your rear one though.
    bumper1.jpg
    bumper-gif.jpg

    Martin

  13. #13
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Gulfport, Florida
    Posts
    1,960
    Quote Originally Posted by leftlanetruckin View Post
    Re mounts, these are the mounts I make for the rear Range Rover bumpers I make...
    The clevis (1" solid stock) gets through welded into the brackets, and the brackets have nuts welded onto them for easier removal.
    Martin,
    That's a nice looking bumper. What thickness did you use for the 'skin' of the bumper??



  14. #14
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Mo. Via Lancs. England
    Posts
    20
    Thank you!
    The main section is actually 2x6x3/16" box IIRC. It is welded for future duties as an air tank.
    The other "trim" pieces are 1/8".
    Now you can tell me how to make the pics click free!
    I did the upload deal, as I do on JF, RR.Net, and others, but it didn't display the picture directly.......
    That was taken with some "little" 35's that I installed for DD driving, this is what is wears now, as I sold the 35's and wheels due to the need for wheel adapters (made the wheels stick out too far IMHO)
    xjdirty-web.jpg
    There, figured it out....I hope! Or not....
    Martin
    Last edited by leftlanetruckin; 07-13-2012 at 07:13 PM.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Gulfport, Florida
    Posts
    1,960
    The jeep don't look bad, does it have the adapters on in the picture??. The mud adds a bit of character don't you think??


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