metal saw blade

**raleigh** · 02-15-2011, 10:47 AM

I bought a saw blade for a circular saw to cut 11 ga. cold steel, which works very well. Is there a similar blade that I can put on my chop saw to replace the abraisive blade? I know it would be expensive, but on the circular saw it works so good and fast.

**Jim-Tx** · 02-15-2011, 01:32 PM

I don't remember the brand, but there is (or was) a blade for what you are describing. However, I know a guy that tried one and it didn't work like he wanted and he ended up buying a new cold cut chop saw. The problem is that the abrasive saws turn too fast for the cold cut type blades.

I searched and here's the thread I'm talking about.

http://www.hobartwelders.com/weldtal...ad.php?t=28027

**GEM** · 02-15-2011, 03:43 PM

Be careful - those cold cut blades are meant to be run on saws at a lower RPM than wood-cutting saws. I just bought a DeWalt DW872, which is a 14" cold-cut chop saw. This saw does an awesome job. Not cheap but very effective.

The arbor size for this saw is 1" so the blades aren't going to fit your mitre saw. There is a reason for that

**walker** · 02-19-2011, 10:31 AM

You can buy the blade from Helleta (formerly Bullet industries) and try it on your chop saw. The only two things you will accomplish are; burning up a $50 blade, and burning up the motor on the abrasive saw. It will work for a day or so, the the two end results are inevitable as they just don't like each other. Bite the bullet and buy the dry saw. I have the Dewalt and can tell you the table stinks. It is stamped sheet metal and too flexible. You can search for posts by me on on shopfloortalk.com and find the 1/2" plate table I made for mine, or just buy the Milwaukee version which has a cast aluminum table.

**jbmprods** · 02-19-2011, 11:06 AM

i looked at a several cold chop saws before i decided on my 14" Steel Max. liked it so well i bought an Evolution 7" circular saw. kept my Ridgid abrasive saw as a back up because it's a good little saw. i gave my Ryobi 14" chop saw to my brother in law which worked out great because neither one of them are worth a s**t.

**urch55** · 02-20-2011, 10:41 AM

Originally Posted by jbmprods

i gave my Ryobi 14" chop saw to my brother in law which worked out great because neither one of them are worth a s**t.

Oh I don't know about that I would take your Ryobi over your brother in law. At lease you can scrap out the saw and get a momentary gain even if it's a small ammount.

**jbmprods** · 02-20-2011, 11:14 AM

Originally Posted by urch55

Oh I don't know about that I would take your Ryobi over your brother in law. At lease you can scrap out the saw and get a momentary gain even if it's a small ammount.

monetary or momentary? either way. NOW YOU TELL ME!!!!!!

well you are in Florida. that's far enough. i will give him to ya and i'll even pay the freight.

**urch55** · 02-20-2011, 12:26 PM

Originally Posted by jbmprods

monetary or momentary? either way. NOW YOU TELL ME!!!!!!

well you are in Florida. that's far enough. i will give him to ya and i'll even pay the freight.

That would be monetary, even tho the money would only last momentary.

**SidecarFlip** · 02-20-2011, 02:22 PM

Originally Posted by urch55

That would be monetary, even tho the money would only last momentary.

Great line Urch.....

Is that like 'Gone in a flash"......

Or my favorite and what I tend to do....."Up in smoke"......

I've pondered a commercial cold saw more than once. A quality commercial, coolant fed, hydraulic feed cold saw gives an outstanding, burr free cut but the price of admission keeps me using the horizontal band saw and the Roll-In.

I believe (and I could be wrong) that most dedicated cold saws have an arbor speed around 55 rpm or so.

**micglin** · 02-25-2011, 01:17 PM

Originally Posted by raleigh

I bought a saw blade for a circular saw to cut 11 ga. cold steel, which works very well. Is there a similar blade that I can put on my chop saw to replace the abraisive blade? I know it would be expensive, but on the circular saw it works so good and fast.

There's a couple brands of circular saw metal blades out there, but I picked up a 7.25" MK Morse Metal Devil NXT blade at Menards. Picked up a cheap little miter saw too to use it on, an Altocraft 8.25" that's was on sale for $40. I have to shim up the cutting surface with a piece of 1/2" plywood to get a full cut, after doing that it'll cut through 1/4" angle iron pretty nicely, with a smooth as silk cut edge too.

Now that I know it works, and works well enough for my needs, I'll be ordering a proper size blade for the miter saw, and putting the 7.25" on a circular saw. They do offer bigger blades (14" chop saw size), but those are only rated for 1800RPM. That's why I went with a smaller, higher RPM rated blade and a dedicated miter saw for my metal cutting. I don't know how long the blades will last, but I have cold cutting metal saw for $90 or so.

**Abrasive Trader** · 02-27-2011, 12:23 AM

Milwaukee should have an 8.25" blade cause they have a metal saw that size.

The guys over at Pirate4x4 are all trying to run the 14" metal blades on wood mitre saws and burning them up too.

Some have blown apart or get bad kickback on the miter cuts. Watch your eyeballs!

**Roger** · 02-27-2011, 12:32 PM

Metal cutting circular saw blades will throw carbide saw tooth brazed to saw blade when blade binds in cut. Solid clamping work in saw helps prevent or reduce this problem. Stand to side of blade helps keep you out of impact area. Always use blade guards. Using dull saw can overheat saw so braze joint fails then carbide saw tooth is thrown from saw.

Good saw sharpening shop can replace missing carbide saw tooth before sharpening.

**vicegrip** · 02-27-2011, 01:56 PM

Hmnnnn...........
I have been professionally involved in every avenue of
fabriction and machining for well over 3 decades.

I read these threads about round blades and wheels
(terms seem interchangable any-more).
Saw-frames light enough my 11 year old daughter
could cary them down into the basement.

.......... Why do I keep thinking ....... Emergency Room?

Phil

**Jim-Tx** · 02-27-2011, 07:57 PM

I think that attempting to make a machine do a job that it's not designed for is a potential trip to the ER. That's basically what is happening when they put a carbide tipped blade on a saw that not only turns too fast, it also lacks proper guards to keep the flying metal contained. (some of the metal might be the carbide teeth)

As a side note, I recently bought a Milwaukee metal cutting circular saw. I was very apprehensive about using a hand held circular saw on steel and held off on buying one mainly for that reason. However, since that saw is designed to turn the proper speed for the blades and also contains the cuttings, it's safe and comfortable to use. I DO wear eye protection, but I would with any saw.