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  1. #16
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    S.W. Mi.
    Posts
    413
    The directions are a little mis-leading.Burning acetylene without oxygen will give smoke and soot but as you increase the acetylene flame it will stop sooting but will still smoke.As soon as you start to add oxygen the level of smoke diminishes until you reach the point where the flame burns clean.

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    houston pa
    Posts
    1,263
    victor manual states the same thing..."continue opening fuel valve until flame stops smoking." i can see where that would throw a brother off.

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Libertyville, IL
    Posts
    472
    Use a different approach. After you ignite acetylene, continue opening the fuel valve until the flame separates from the tip. Then close the valve a bit till it returns. At this point you can open the oxygen valve and use it to set the type of flame you need (neutral, most often).

  4. #19
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    West Central Iowa
    Posts
    44

    Nailed it!

    Quote Originally Posted by Bob the Welder View Post
    The black smoke will never leave completely. I assumed he was referring to getting rid of the big "floaters".
    I think Bob the welder nailed it about removing the "floaters"! That's the way I have started my torches for years....

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    S.W. Ohio
    Posts
    95
    Quote Originally Posted by joatmon View Post
    I think Bob the welder nailed it about removing the "floaters"! That's the way I have started my torches for years....
    I called Smith Equipment this morning and they confirmed that description. It's also the setting that produces the gas consumption for individual tips as listed in the Owner's Manual.

    Jim
    Dynasty 300DX
    MM350P
    Hobart Handler 120
    Smith LW7 , AW1A
    Smith He/Ar gas mixer

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Libertyville, IL
    Posts
    472
    IMO, the "no floaters" range is too wide and poorely defined to be a reliable indication of an optimal acetylene flow for a given tip. It's not like it doesn't work, but I'd suggest you to start with the method I mentioned above to get an idea what optimal flow is.

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    S.W. Ohio
    Posts
    95
    Quote Originally Posted by MichaelP View Post
    IMO, the "no floaters" range is too wide and poorely defined to be a reliable indication of an optimal acetylene flow for a given tip. It's not like it doesn't work, but I'd suggest you to start with the method I mentioned above to get an idea what optimal flow is.

    Use a different approach. After you ignite acetylene, continue opening the fuel valve until the flame separates from the tip. Then close the valve a bit till it returns. At this point you can open the oxygen valve and use it to set the type of flame you need (neutral, most often).
    I agree the "no floater" threshold is somewhat vague, but your method will produce a gas flow greater than that recommended by Smith. Obviously, there is a range of fuel flow that will work. Your thoughts?

    Jim
    Dynasty 300DX
    MM350P
    Hobart Handler 120
    Smith LW7 , AW1A
    Smith He/Ar gas mixer

  8. #23
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Richmond, Virginia
    Posts
    5,320
    Check out the videos I posted. The first one mentions "most of the smoke", getting the acet flame down to the tip and adjusting a torch within a small range of heat output.
    --- RJL ----------------------------------------------

    Ordinarily I'm insane, but I have lucid moments when I'm merely stupid.
    -------------------------
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    Lincwelder AC180C circa 1950
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  9. #24
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Libertyville, IL
    Posts
    472
    Quote Originally Posted by 4sfed View Post
    I agree the "no floater" threshold is somewhat vague, but your method will produce a gas flow greater than that recommended by Smith. Obviously, there is a range of fuel flow that will work. Your thoughts?
    Jim
    Jim,

    This will be about the ideal flow for many (if not the most) situations. Naturally, you can work in a range of fuel flow, just remember that it's safer to err on a high side to prevent popping and flashback.
    Last edited by MichaelP; 01-18-2011 at 12:02 AM.

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    S.W. Ohio
    Posts
    95
    Quote Originally Posted by MichaelP View Post
    Jim,

    This will be about the ideal flow for many (if not the most) situations. Naturally, you can work in a range of fuel flow, just remember that it's safer to err on a high side to prevent popping and flashback.

    I do a fair amount of heating with a torch where your method would work well. It's also appropriate for welding ferrous metals, but I think the flame adjusted that way is too forceful for silver solder, bronze welding, and aluminum brazing and welding . . . which are my main uses for a torch.

    YMMV,
    Jim
    Dynasty 300DX
    MM350P
    Hobart Handler 120
    Smith LW7 , AW1A
    Smith He/Ar gas mixer

  11. #26
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Libertyville, IL
    Posts
    472
    It's quite likely. Or, maybe, you just need a smaller tip or even a smaller torch for your purposes.

    P.S. I just realized I confused you with the OP.
    Last edited by MichaelP; 01-18-2011 at 10:47 AM.

  12. #27
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    PCB, Fl
    Posts
    3,942
    What I found interesting about the Smith videos was how he adjusted propane cutting torch. I have used MAPP Gas for cutting with same type cutting tip but after seeing that I wasn't using enough gas.
    Roger

  13. #28
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Posts
    3

    using cutting torch

    acetylene/oxygen is the best thing to cut the steel according to the requirement but it need some sort of care as well with the technique. here is the link to use best of it...

    http://www.wikihow.com/Use-a-Cutting-Torch
    Last edited by omair; 02-03-2011 at 06:34 AM.

  14. #29
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Kelowna
    Posts
    60
    Airborn floaties are carbon, aka, the ever elusive Shop goblin. Add oxygen and they go away. S'funny that! Common cutting pressures are 7 and 40. Dial in the acetylene until the floaties go away, and add the oxygen. Easy!

  15. #30
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    13
    Do not exceed 15 psi on that acetylene regulator
    Also use the 1/10 rule for draw from that acetylene tank
    Unless you want to be Get the Darwin award
    A few Hot Glue Guns
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