welding a cast iron pillow block

[Tmccutcheon]

I want to weld a cast iron pillow block with the barring still in it. The reason i want to weld it with the barring still in it is: It has a 850 pound sprocket on the end. It is on a gravel crusher and we don't want to take all the sprockets etc. off. It maybe runs 50 rpm. not a lot of stress on it. what rod should i use and how should i cool it slow? could i apply heat to the steel I beam it is mounted on and slowly cut back on the heat? it would be very hard to wrap this to cool it slow.

[Bob the Welder]

Take the chains and sprockets off and whatever else needs to be removed and replace it with a new one. It will save time and money in the long run.

Anything with an 850 lb. sprocket on a gravel crusher will have a lot of stress on it or it wouldn't have broken in the first place.

[Pangea]

I agree with everything that Bob said. (except for that union cr@p)

[urch55]

I agree with the others.. I have found out a factory replacement bearing will be better than an over the counter cheap one. I like using Link Belt on the bigger forestry equipment that I service, with set screw collars. And I tell my customers right off, that don't buy the cheap stuff. Flanged bearings on the disc chippers is what I have seen crack.

[bandsawguy]

Yup replace. I do it all the time on customers conveyors.

[SidecarFlip]

Besides, you'll cook the grease in the original bearing and it will be junk, at any rpm.

[snoeproe]

The grease in the bearing will boil (grease is just oil with thickeners in it). The weld heat can also damage any seals on the bearings. At the same time, the rollers and roller cage will also heat up and expand inside the pillow block.
Is it the bearing cap or main housing thats broken?

[Rocky D]

I'll chime in, too in agreement with the other guys, (even the union ones)
By trying to weld it in place, you will never get full penetration, and even if you did, it'd crack again, and you'll be back to square 1.

I was Operating Engineers 501...in case anyone is interested. (I really doubt anyone does)

[usmcpop]

In my humble opinion, not much in the way of cast iron is worth welding, because it's exceedingly hard to do it correctly. Sure, maybe a repair on a 20,000 pound casting or a machine tool from 1877 or an early 20th century tractor exhaust manifold. (One of our esteemed members here is a whiz at repairing the latter.)

Cast iron is not steel and will not behave as such when welded.

[vicegrip]

Rule #1
Yes eccentially I am yelling it.

What broked it? If you know how it failed
THEN and only then can you weigh one type of repair against another.

If it is cracked due to a non stressed or non-catastrophic situation
I have done girdles on some sizable machinery.
Or even a partial girdle.
One worked well enough that like Red Green says!
"This is only temorary ....... unless it works!"

The soft tapered pin is a mirical in the hands of a healer.
Take Care.
vg

PS
I guess I shouldn't be surprised if one of you smart-a$$s
is photo-shopping a girdle onto A GRAVEL-CRUSHER.
hmnnn?

[usmcpop]

I'd either do what Bob the Welder said or use Mighty Putty.

[vicegrip]

I'd either do what Bob the Welder said or use Mighty Putty.

Guys !??!?!?!
It's not winter yet, he's got to keep that thing GO'n.

Come winter he can build a whole new crusher.
vg

[Rocky D]

Temporary...unless it works....hahaha words to live by...thanx Phil.

[whateg0]

"This is only temorary ....... unless it works!"

I think that's the opposite of me working on my "prototypes"!

Dave

[snoeproe]

I'll chime in, too in agreement with the other guys, (even the union ones)
By trying to weld it in place, you will never get full penetration, and even if you did, it'd crack again, and you'll be back to square 1.

I was Operating Engineers 501...in case anyone is interested. (I really doubt anyone does)

TSSA certified 4th class operating engineer here.
IAM local 771