Much like welders, other than a hack-saw, the average guy just didn't
have one several decades ago. Had to find a shop for serious sawing.
Since so many home-shop folks visit this forum, heres some back-ground
on metal-cutting saws.
Adam, the power-hack-saw.
Then came the vertical band-saw.
Then the floor-saw (horizontal-band-saw).
Then the chop-saw (abrasive wheel).
Then the cold-saw Circular solid wheel (With teeth).
Then the dry-cut sister to the cold-saw.
The neat thing is that the order of usefullness and condition-tolleration,
for general trouble-free one-of kind and odd-job cutting is just about the same.
Blade cost also the same order.
Most power-hack-saws in even reasonable condition, will cut thru
just about what-ever will fit in the vise, as long as the teeth-count
is above minimum for wall-thickness, and ya don't over-speed them.
Blade-cost is lowest.
The vertical-band-saw actually was born BIG, really BIG.
This for cutting wood for patterns for casting iron.
The saws were so rigid and well built, that geared down they could also
The floor saw (horizontal-band-saw) was actually prefected in Germany.
And unperfected here in the U S . They work much better when the blade
is fed out and up into the work instead of pulled toward the back.
The blade gets a good square attack that way and enters the work close
to the saw-frame pivot point.
Blade cost a tad more per cut then power-hack-saw blades,
and the guides need to be kept true and in good working order.
The abrasive chop-saw is suposed to be a HIGH-POWERED tool!
In the indutrial version, the blade is "perishable" and perish it does.
The horse-power is about 5HP for 12" and 7-10 for 18" and so-on.
The home version is good to about a 3/4" round part.
After that there is no-where near enough H.P. to get good brake-down,
and the wheels tend to load up with the waste metal.
The cold saw was intended for cuts of higher-accuracy of both squareness
and part lenght. The tooth shape helps generate burr-free cuts.
Blade expence is now climbing, and saw-frame / vise rigidity becomes
Dry-cut intended for use in "free-cutting" materials metal and non-metal.
Emphasis on dry......because some parts simply have to remain clean and
dry to continue being manufactured.
For general and home-use, your potencial for problems goes up
as you go down this list. I'm not diss'ing any class of saws.
Just adding food for thought to the mix. Before alot of home-shop
funding is layed out.
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