Problem Tig welding AL

**acwd1950** · 11-30-2008, 08:07 AM

Hi all,
Im having this problem and I dont know whats causing it. When I start to tig AL its black and has small pits. I thought it wasnt clean enough. So I cleaned and cleaned and CLEANED everything I tried the same thing cant get a bead to start! Tried different tungsten 2% thoirated, pure it doesnt matter. Changed every setting I can change Nothings changed. Maxed out the cleaning setting same thing. Doesnt matter what type of AL. The arc jumps all over the place. So I thought it was the flow so I changed it same thing. Is it because Im using pure argon or is it contaminated? Even have the same problem with wire but I can weld the AL but its black speckled so Im at a loss? Any Ideas?

Thanks
Steve

**B_C** · 11-30-2008, 10:29 AM

Without seeing your parts it's hard to figure out the problem. When you say your CLEANING the aluminum.....What are you doing to CLEAN it? Also what series is the aluminum, what filler rod....Have you welded this material with good results before with the same machine.....Have you recently changed bottles?.. Answer these questions and we can help you....Pictures would help...

**B_C** · 11-30-2008, 10:37 AM

I thought about how to set the machine so it would screw someone up ( I was a mean kid) and thought that maybe your high freq is not working or set on the START position....

**acwd1950** · 11-30-2008, 12:31 PM

Ok this is what it looks like. Like you put black pepper on eggs. The arc is erratic . It jumps all over the place and where the arc does hit it leaves a black pit. And it almost sounds like its spitting because of the arc dancing all over the place. If you get the filler rod in the arc it gets black specks on it and melts and lays on top like a worm unless you smash the pedal all the way down then its too hot and melts through. Ive tried no filler rod, 4043, and 5356 with the same results. Even tried it on DC the arc isnt erratic but does the same thing. Trying to get a good pic, but it isnt working. HF is on all the time or start it does the same and its working

**acwd1950** · 11-30-2008, 12:37 PM

I have welded AL at school and done great with it there. None of these problems. So Im thinking its the gas because Ive always had problems welding AL with this bottle and always thought the AL wasnt clean enough. Ive used a SS wire brush got some AL cleaner used carb cleaner and nothing has changed

Steve

**B_C** · 11-30-2008, 02:36 PM

Trying another bottle would be the EASIEST thing to do first....If that doesn't help you have machine problems, or a pinched gas hose?

**B_C** · 11-30-2008, 02:40 PM

When you said you have always had problems with that bottle, it kinda makes me wonder how long you have had that bottle?....If it welds bad today with that gas it will still be bad next week if it's a BAD BOTTLE...That's why I keep three spares on hand....Also I'm not familiar with CARB CLEANER as a GOOD surfacr cleaner for Tig welding aluminum......Not sure what it leaves behind? I like acetone or denatured alcohol

**monster** · 11-30-2008, 09:25 PM

I have been having the same problem. I have a syncrowave 200, clean with a SS brush, use acetone afterwords and still get little black specs in the welds. Someone mentioned something about high/low frequency and HZ but not sure how or if I can even change that on mine. It's pretty much new.

**coupeute** · 11-30-2008, 11:25 PM

Assuming that the bottle and gas are OK, is it possible that you are holding the tungsten too close to the work and that you do not have a nice ball shape tip on your tungsten? Carb cleaner is OK for cleaning and s.s. brushing is a must. Over night aluminum gets contaminated just from the atmosphere and must be brushed clean before welding for best results. The contamination is aluminum"s version of suface rust.

**acwd1950** · 12-01-2008, 06:37 AM

I hold the tungsten about 1/4 to 1/2 of an inch away from the work and have a nice round ball on the end. Ive cleaned it with the SS brush and AL cleaner right before I try and weld it. Heres the other deal I can switch it over to DC and weld steel just fine, if it was the gas wouldnt it show up on steel too? I was reading the book on the machine last night and read about arc rectification could that be part of the problem? Im using 3/32 tungsten and a # 8 cup. Its a squarewave machine and i havent used it that much just to weld on DC stick. So maybe theres something Im missing or not setting correctly. It has a pulse feature which works great on steel, tried it on AL with the same results.

Steve

**MXtras** · 12-01-2008, 08:57 AM

Try bumping up your post flow. You might be trying to start without a clean shield.

Also - check your arc gap. See your manual.

Scott

**B_C** · 12-01-2008, 09:11 AM

From what your saying about the GAP on the tungsten 1/4 to 1/2.....That's too much distance IMO to establish and hold a good welding arc....Can you actually form a PUDDLE? Or maybe your not establishing a welding arc...Try holding a CLOSER ARC....with 130 amps...AC, Constant HF, with Balanced wave setting...
If you still have the problem I would call a welder repair tech....

**B_C** · 12-01-2008, 09:14 AM

If it was a gas flow problem the TUNGSTEN would be toast almost immediately....I think you need to call a repair guy....

I just read your last reply....You say you have a nice ball on the tungsten.....How did it get balled up if the thing won't weld?....Or are you balling the tungsten on DC+

**acwd1950** · 12-01-2008, 03:39 PM

Im balling it on DC on the AL in a different place. First thing Im going to do is get a different bottle and go from there. If that dont fix it then its something in the machine. Like I said I havent used it much just ran some stick welds with it on DC. BC I will try that before I change bottles and see what happens.

Steve