WTF: POS HH140 unit

[4birdman]

I swear this machine is pissing me off to no end. I bought it at the end of October and didn't really get to use it until the middle of November. I used it for three days for about 10-15 minutes each day (I was just tacking some sheetmetal) and then the wire feed stopped. I called Hobart tech and then took it to the service center. The circuit board had gone bad and they replaced it for free under warranty. Oh well, two weeks later and my welder is back, although that put me two weeks behind on the project I am working on.

So I get back at it and I weld maybe 4-5 days for about 30 minutes each day, probably less actually.

Tonight I go out to weld on my spring perches on the the axle so I can fab up my rear frame and suspension this weekend and CLICK - SAME PROBLEM AS BEFORE!

It is doing the exact same thing and now I NEED this welder for this weekend. I am pissed. I had a cheapie Campbell Housefield flux-core unit that I sold to get this Hobart with gas capability and that thing lasted me for years with no problems.

I am pissed. I am building a Camaro to give me brother-in-law when he gets home from Iraq (http://www.patriotdream.org ) and I am on a tight time crunch, I can't waste another two weeks on this freaking welder!

[84ZMike]

Give me a call....I'll PM you my #....we talked before about the welding on the car....I'm sorry you are having problems with the HH140.....it is not rated for what you are trying to do with solid wire.....mine worked just fine and when it did have a feeding issue Hobart and my LWS were very quick to fix the problem......
Mike

[4birdman]

Mike, thanks! I'll give you a buzz!

BTW, I was just welding sheetmetal thus far. I hadn't even gotten into any of the thicker stuff yet. I was only using .025 wire as well. I was told this was the best welder to use before going up to 220 unit, so that's why I bought it.

[whateg0]

...I was told this was the best welder to use before going up to 220 unit, so that's why I bought it.

Yeah, it's a good welder, but it isn't really intended for welding suspension components, especially thicker parts. Good thing there's a pair of U bolts to hold it all together!

Dave

[1990notch]

I think the HH140 is more than capable of welding the gauge of steel you will find on those frame rails. They probably aren't any thicker than .120 or so. Welding on the the rear end housing is pushing it, but that work should be done at a rear end shop equiped with the jigs and welder to do it anyways.

[whateg0]

... Welding on the the rear end housing is pushing it, but that work should be done at a rear end shop equiped with the jigs and welder to do it anyways.

Not contradicting what you said...

That was why I made the statement that I did. I found that the CH125 I had would do quite a bit, though some things required more careful prep work, but everything has its limits. I know I never tried welding any rear ends with it!

Dave

[4birdman]

Oh no, I am not welding on the rearend with it! I am just working on a junk rear axle for mockup. The real axle will be built by a local shop.

[1990notch]

I see. I've never welded on a rearend either. I did fabricate some subframe connectors out of .120 wall mild steel tubing. Welded them together and then onto the car with a 140 amp machine. It worked just fine. I also fabricated a 3 link suspension piece out of .120 and .185 thick mild steel tubing and plate. It's bolted to the top of the rearend housing where the 2 upper links normally go on a Mustang rearend. It also connects to the bottom of the rearend and 2 bolts of the rearend cover. It's maybe a bit over triangulated, but I wanted to be sure it was as solid as possible. I welded that piece together with the same 140 amp machine. I've not put slicks to it yet, but it's seen plenty of abuse on sticky street tires and a 550 horse Vortech blown small block. Hasn't broken or cracked yet.

I think as long as you run hot and get complete penetration on clean steel, it probably is possible to weld some ladder bars or spring pads on a rearend housing with a 140 amp machine. Warpage and alignment is the main reason I would send it out though. Hard to keep it straight without the right jigs and experience.

[4birdman]

Well, they said that they can't find any problems with it other than the circuit board AGAIN. They are now saying that it is probably the wiring in my house having a bad ground. I checked it with my grandfather who is an electrician and it all checks out perfectly. I don't see why I can run a big air compressor on that outlet for over 2 years every weekend for hours with no problem, and also my old CH welder on the same outlet with no problems, yet this Hobart is screwing up.

I think I got a lemon. If it breaks again there is gonna be some serious *****ing coming from me.

[DrIQ]

Did they tell you what failed on the board. Since they mentioned checking your ground on the primary power it suggest that the ground trace on the board is what failed. If that is what happened it could be caused by having the welder setting on the work and the case of the welder providing a better ground than the ground lead for the welding current. Is the ground lead in the welder power cable connected to a grounded receptical or are you working on a 2 wire circuit?

[4birdman]

Nope, I've been welding on a car and the welder sits on the concrete garage floor. And the ground wire is grounded to the receptacle.

I run every one of my tools off of this out let and I have for years. Big bandsaw, big compressor, my old welder, drills, sawzalls, drop lights, grinders, you name it.

[84ZMike]

I'd check and see if the wire is rubbing on the case on the back side of the spool.....this is something that happened before and was causing some issues.....I'd also call Hobart direct and talk with them to see what they say about it.....good luck.
Mike

[whateg0]

It seems that the welder has always stopped suddenly, right? I mean, it didn't spit and sputter a few times for awhile and then eventually quit? You might check the resistance between the welding ground lug and the case. Maybe check it while moving the spool around, or other parts? Just guesses, but I run into stuff like that from time to time at work. A part just suddenly stops working and when the new part is installed it works for awhile. Then another something moves and shorts out and the new part fails. Intermittents are a blast!!!

I suppose you could always drop it in a box and send it to me. I'm sure I could find something to do with it. Then you could go buy a HH187.

Dave

[Sparkeee24]

Howdy Howdy!

I have welded perches for my scout II on my dana 44 rear end, before I knew better with a 120 volt unit. I do not recomend it. I have 33" swampers on it, and I'm rough with it. It has held up fine, though I plan on doing it right, now that I have the right gear. I welded up a spring over axle lift, complete with reverse shackles, and reverse arched drop leaf. However, every component was welded with bolt through for backup. I have 2 seperate 5/8" thick bolts holding the new welded assemblies on the rig. The idea, was the welding hold everything true ans straight, and if anything were to fail, the angles may shift a bit, but nothing catastrophic would happen. It might be like front end of a car being out of alignment.

I DID however have a professional shop reweld the knuckles back on the axletube, and I ground the original welds out, and rotated the knuckles to provide for 4 deg or caster (which scouts had none) as well as tip the pinion up for the CV joint now desired, due to the hi lift and short wheel base. I also had the perch welded on the passenger side, as with scouts, on a spring over, the perch must be ground into the pumpkin, and then nickel welded to the casting. It's how the 44's are for my rig. I should post some pictures. I am in the process of re-working much of it, as I want to brag about how awesome I can weld, but the old stuff is from back when I was a noob. I'm 29 now, and I have pride that it's my first truck from back in high school.

Beware of cold lap!!! and, the HH187 is really what you should be using. See if you can take yours back and trade up, or sell yours once its fixed. then get a 187. It's so worth it, and the 240 volt outlet... theres a good reason the machine neads it! good luck! Brian Lee Sparkeee29

[Hobart Expert Darrell]

4birdman,

Let me ask a question that hopefully, you've already been asked off-line. When you pull the trigger switch of the gun and hear a click as you describe, is there voltage at the polarity change-over terminals above the feedhead?

With the voltage selection switch in position 4, you should be reading approximately 27 Vdc (depending on your input voltage).

The voltage supplied to the feedmotor to make it run is based on the output voltage supplied to the weld. If this voltage isn't present, the motor won't run.

Also, does this problem occur with the voltage selection switch placed in all positions (1,2,3, &4)?

Darrell