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Thread: Thin to thick

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    IL (St. Louis)
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    228

    Thin to thick

    OK I read a post out here a while back and your ‘real’ welders gave some good pointers to this hobby welder about how to join two like pieces of metal at a T-joint. It was the one about Push vs. Pull when using a mig. (Just for those of you that will ask questions, in my case with gas.)

    Next question:

    Say I am trying to weld sheet or expanded steel to a piece of angle. You know on a cart or a workbench. I can get it done but it is nothing I want anyone to see. I have big globs (Not hot enough, too much wire speed?) and/or burn thru (too hot?) all over the place.

    So I guess what I want to know is any special fabrication instruction as well as changes to settings on the welder. (Simple welder 1 thru 10 on both heat and wire speed.)
    Do I start my bead on the thick material and just move the puddle to the thin?
    What is the proper spacing for tack welds?
    Robert

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  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    153
    try using a smaller dia. wire. you'll do better fusing without burning thru. also, try traveling at a faster speed.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    San Antonio, TX
    Posts
    308
    Quote Originally Posted by BBackSoon View Post
    ...
    Do I start my bead on the thick material and just move the puddle to the thin?
    That's what I do and it works for me. I get a good puddle on the thick then sort of "flick it" to the thin.

    HTH
    Pete

    While mere mortals get their recommended daily allowance of iron from a pill - Weldors will take it Cold Rolled or DOM, thank you very much!

    www.texhand.com

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Davenport, Iowa
    Posts
    824
    When I do something like that(expanded to angle) I like to have the welder set to the thicker material or maybe a bit 'hotter'. Then, you start your weld off of the expanded, or away from it, get a puddle going(dont take too long, couple of seconds, max) and just kinda whip over and then off the exp. Do not stay on it long or it will go away if it takes more than one 'whip' to get it to stick, so be it. The trick is to have a fairly 'liquid' puddle that you can whip over without getting the exp. so hot it vaporizes........
    Tack spacing is whatever is dictated by the job. If your tacking up an angle frame, a couple in the corners is good. If its bigger, then you need enough to keep it from falling apart as you move it around or popping loose as you weld it.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    raleigh, nc
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    448
    I set my hh187 on # 6 and wire speed on 40. Weld on the angle (about 1/8" away from the expanded metal) close to the expanded steel. Do not push or pull, stay in one spot pull your trigger and watch your spotweld become larger and move into the expanded metal area and panetrates this should only take about three seconds. After thats done and you need more weld in the area start over again 1/4 to 1/2 in the coin you just did.

    This is how I do it

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  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    San Diego, CA
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    7,704
    I agree with TEK...no need to go to a smaller wire....cut your Xmtl to have a line of the thick part of the web near the center of your angle, and do as TEK says.
    Arcin' and sparkin', Rocky D <><
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  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    San Antonio, TX
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    308
    Good decsription TEK, pretty much what I do, but you described it a whole lot better.
    Pete

    While mere mortals get their recommended daily allowance of iron from a pill - Weldors will take it Cold Rolled or DOM, thank you very much!

    www.texhand.com

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Davenport, Iowa
    Posts
    824
    No biggie, I saw it done once or twice

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