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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    26

    tips on welding thin metal with stick welders

    i would like to know what the best possible way to weld thin metal with a stick welder is. lower tap setting with small stick or lower setting with a big stick or what?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    San Diego, CA
    Posts
    7,702
    Low setting, small stick, move fast.
    Arcin' and sparkin', Rocky D <><
    Experience is something you don't get until just after you need it.
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  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Cheraw, South Carolina
    Posts
    48
    Along with that you could also try straight polarity if you have a DC welder, and use a rod like 6013 - a fill freeze rod. You could also try to stitch weld and then go back and fill in. The last would help if the other things don't take care of it by letting the metal cool a little before you go back.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Suffolk Virginia
    Posts
    1,779
    I agree; straight polarity on DC and 6013 or 6011 allow you to make good welds. Rocky has vastly more experience than me, but everytime I try to move fast with stick, I end up with little more than slag deposits, so try experimenting a little on scrap, someplace between bird droppings and blowing holes will get it done for you.
    Blacksmith
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  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    schurz
    Posts
    249
    the type of rod to use would be 6013 because of the incresed desposition rate and shallow penetration but one thing that helps some people is to keep a long arc length not super long but about a 3/32 and you can use the 6011 but a little more difficult becaus of the deep penetration
    it is always better to be long than to too short.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    brooksville fl
    Posts
    4
    What position? I have found low heat and if you are doing a vert, down hand the first pass and then with the meatel on the thin side go back and weld up hand. With thin meatel you will blow a lot of holes befor you get it right. If it is in a noncriticle spot and out of sight (asuming the whole is a good size) use another rod to use as a fill in. If it is in ether of the other, you will have to just slowly work it or make a patch. That is just my experice and I am sure some of ya is more than me.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    San Diego, CA
    Posts
    7,702
    A downhand pass on vertical is best ...but I don't know that I would try and weld over it up hill...I guess it would depend on the situation. This is a hard technique to explain here...you have to see the action of gravity on the weld to really appreciate it, so practice is in order... as always.
    Arcin' and sparkin', Rocky D <><
    Experience is something you don't get until just after you need it.
    IF YOU CAN READ THIS, THANK A TEACHER...
    IF YOU'RE READING THIS IN ENGLISH, THANK A SOLDIER!

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Wisconsin
    Posts
    361

    Sheet metal

    Like 6010 said, use the 6013 rod. TSC has it in 1/16th inch sticks which seems to work best for me. Remember 6013 can be used as a ful contact rod, so you can stick it right down in the puddle and go. Try it on some scrap pieces first before you get to your good stuff. Play with it a little and see what it can and can't do for you. Good luck and let us know how it works out.
    Jim Don
    Last edited by JimDon; 12-14-2007 at 09:52 AM. Reason: Was sick and disoriented and mentioned wrong size rod

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    SW PA.
    Posts
    501
    Hey ag,
    I also would go with the 6013 and I like the 5/64" for thin sheet metal if I have to smaw weld. I prefer to MIG on all thin sheetmetal for optimum results, but if the smaw is all you have, the smallest rod you use will result in a better weld. You will have much more success using a piece of aluminum or copper(1/8" thick) backing to absorb some of the heat and prevent burnthru. Also, by simply welding in short spans(<1") at a time, you can control your bead a bit better. Most importantly, the practice runs you make on scrap sheetmetal of the same thickness will allow you to tailor your welding parameters to get a good weld both structurally & asthetically.....Hope that helps a bit....good luck....Denny
    Complete weld/mach./fab shop
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  10. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    illinois
    Posts
    208
    If you are in a 5/64'' range you could try a 7014. Our wal-mart had them in 1/16'' also.I used some once and I believe they were supposed to be shallow penetrating.This was with an ac 110 welder though.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    ohio
    Posts
    629
    The first choice would be 6012 on DCEN or AC. That was the sheet metal rod before the small wire welders were around. The only problem is that the 6012 is hard to find in todays suppliers.

    The second choice would be 6013 on DCEN or AC. I ran a short (4") 18 ga. lap joint with a 1/16" 6013 (40-45 amps) using AC last week just to see if I could still do it. Looked as good if not better than what you normally get with .030 flux core.
    DrIQ

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Browns Valley, CA
    Posts
    8,518
    I'm thinkin' the agmigwelder is a youngster still in school. The replies are excellent, but he needs to take this to the teacher for counsel!

    Hank
    ...from the Gadget Garage
    MM 210 w/3035, BWE
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  13. #13
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Brethren, Mi
    Posts
    11,363
    I am with the DR here, its one of the reasons a Maxstar interests me. I dont weld enough to be really keen but it would not take long a little consistent practice. If I had to tote a heavy machine around and use flux core I would just as soon use a stick. I have used 6012, it might be worth a special order but I would have a few 6013 and 6011 in small sizes as well as 3/32 7018.

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