Table top thickness

[Jaxom]

I know this is another one of those subjective type questions, but I've gotten some really good advice before, so here it goes.

For starters, I cannot see myself really working on heavy projects. But I do want a table top that's not going to flex when I least want it to.

There's two ideas that I want to incorporate into any table that I build. One idea I got from here. And that's was one of the posters mentioned he had drilled holes in a grid like pattern across his table. Using long bolts, nuts and and some various length of metal tubing he could make bending frames for his projects. And I really liked that idea.

The other idea I got from some new products that Sears carries. For someone like me, who doesn't have a whole building or basement for place to mount every type of tool I'd like to own, they have this system where you stow your saws, presses and what all in a one cabinet and then use one stand you mount all your tools too.

As I said, I don't see myself at this time working on anything too heavy. I'm looking mainly at yard art, sculptures, and so on. So I don't think I need anything like 1/2 inch or bigger. Would 1/4 or 3/8th be good?


Thanks

Jax

[Mr Jimi]

I would go with the 1/2 and always plan ahead, you never know what could change in the future
Jim

[crawler]

1/2" or thicker would be nice, but it will be very heavy and expensive.
1/2" 4' x 8' sheet of plate steel was $335 + tax in the Dallas area. Your mileage may vary...

I ended up buying a used welding table. It came with 5/8" plate, measured
44" x 48" and was 40" tall. I cut the legs 3.5" inches to make it shorter. Got this table for $120.00 on craigslist.

You can get by with 1/4" table if you don't plan on beating on it with a big hammer. Just put plenty of support under the top plate.

[thinkharderchri]

3/8 and under can be prone to warpage over time and if you weld jigs to it you will weaken it when you grind the welds smooth. So my advice is bite the bullet and find a spot in your shop where you will not be moving the table around and go with at least a 1/2".

[Rocky D]

I think for your application the 3/8" would work fine...if you need something heavier to beat on, get a anvil.

[enlpck]

You're probably fine with 3/8(or even 1/4, if $$$$ is tight) if it has sufficient framing under it. When attachine the framing, don't overweld. 2" Stitches every 6 to 8" is likely to be fine, and will minimize warping and twisting. The FRAME is what will keep the top flat and true.

General use table at work (4' by 6', roughly) regularly has 500 to 1000# parts on it, gets beaten, is used for all kinds of fab work, and no problem. Bolt or clamp stuff down, shim flat, and go to town.

[atlantafab]

I know this is gonna sound like - what planet did I come from but, I have a table that's topped with a frame in the shape of the roman numeral II. It's 4"x4" x 1/8" AL Sq Tube. TO that, I bolt on a piece of 3/4" particle board with counter-bored holes - no kidding, I've been welding projects for plenty-o-folks on this device for years and they can come out great with care - taking, clamping, etc. The particle board gets burnt here and there - OK, I sand it once in a while but, if you're no dealing in serious precision, IT WORKS!

Originally I made it to deal with a special small Stainless steel TIG/polished project and it just didn't get thrown-out.

Another decade of work and I maybe can upgrade to the BLUCO things.

[Wyoming]

Find a scrap yard that will let you go back into the yard and have a look around. The welding table below came from my local yard for $35...without the casters and such. It has a 1/2" plate top and angle welded to two sides for pipe and tubing work.

If you mount some receiver hitch tubing under the top plate...expensive at around $6-7 a foot, but you shouldn't need much...you can mount any tool you wish to your table and remove it when not needed. Regular square tube work fine for the mounts. Pull the pin and the tool will slide right off.

[Jaxom]

As usual, more great advice. Honestly, I just can't see myself needing a top that 1/2" thick right now. In as much as I might have to move in the near future, there's the weight issue involved. Mind you, this is mainly going to be my first "practice" and small work table. I can always build a bigger and better one in the future once I've figured out when I'm moving or even if there's a need to do so.

Here's what I've got planned out. For top and bottom frame, I'm gonna use 1" 1/8th sqaure tube. I know alot of you folks use angle iron, but I have my reasons for using sqaure tube. For the legs I will use 2" 1/8th angle iron. After what advice has been given, I'm leaning towards 1/4 or 3/8th top, which I'll have to get in two pieces. I don't have a trailer or large enough vehicle to get a full sized sheet at once. Just in case I'll ask if the place I'm gonna order from delivers, that may be an option too.

Since it has been recommended that I support the thinner top, what's the best suggestion? A cross member ever 24" maybe?

At this time I'm not going to worry about a bottom shelf. I just want to get this table up and running. The small table I'm using now is the pits, because it's only 18"x18" and is 28" high.

re swapping out tools: I sorta like the trailer hitch idea. How much over hang would I need to zap one in? Another idea I've been tossing around is must making a smaller, heavy duty table that's on casters.

Jax

[Wyoming]

Jaxom,
For the hitch receiver tubing, don't make it complicated. Just weld the receiver stock to the bottom of the table's top and maybe a corner leg...if its handy and where you want the receiver. From there you either mount the accessory on a piece of plate the same thickness as your table top plus the wall thickness of the receiver tube and you'll have the accessory sitting at table top level once its welded to the slide-in tube.

Not sure how big you are going to build this table, but you don't need a gigantic table top. If the project is larger than your table will accommodate just use some pipe stands off to the side to hold the extra length/width. 4' X 4' or 3' X 5' should be more than enough for most needs. Any larger table and you are gonna work yourself to a frazzle walking around the thing to pick up a clamp, weld a joint, whatever. Four foot is kind of stretching it for leaning across to pick up a tool on the opposite side from where you need it.

Leave some room around the table's edges for clamping.

Before you go out and buy the material, do a search on Craigslist and see what is available. Berwyn and the greater Chicago area ought to have more than a couple welding tables for sale. Used is definitely cheaper than buying new.

[Bob S2]

Go with a used welding table if you can, it's the best bang for the buck. If not, try what I do. My welding shop is one bay of a 2 car garage, when the car is pulled out. As such any welding table needs to be put away easily. As a temporary thing only, I bought a relatively small piece of plate steel, I think it's 1/4 inch thick. Yes, not too thick, but I can lift it. It's about 2.5 feet wide by 3.5 feet long. I placed it over two plastic saw horses. It was totally stable and stronger than I ever thought it would be. When done, I just place the plate against the wall, and fold up the horses. It was initially a temporary solution only until I could build a better one, but it serves my needs so well that I really don't see going larger. When I need something bigger I just grab another saw horse, it's at the right height.
I recently upgraded my welding table. I swapped out the saw horses for more expensive plastic saw horses. Now I have them adjusted higher and don't stoop over like I did. My back loves it and it's easier to weld.
Now I did build a heavy duty work bench for the garage. It's cantilever and designed to allow the lawn mower, snow blower, and compressor to sit underneath. I'll find a picture and post it. I don't typically use it much for welding because I don't like being that close to the wall and the window. The top is some plywood pieces that i just move around on an as-needed basis. When I've welded on it, I've just removed the plywood to get to the angle iron frame below.
--Bob

[Sberry]

My tops are 1/4. I dont pound on them with 20# hammers, for general use they are fine.