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Thread: 1'' plate flat

  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2007
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    schurz
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    249

    Exclamation 1'' plate flat

    i am enrolled in college now and i was curious if you guys could give me some tips i know a few but it needs to pass a guided bend test so heres what i know

    7018 1/8''
    1'' thick metal

    i was curious like i have heard it is possible to run to cold and it is also possible to run it to hot so i really dont know how ''hot'' to run it and to pass the bend test to never quench it because the quenching will open up micro cracks naked to the human eye but open up under pressure and to round the edges so as not to have them break so anything will be appreciated
    it is always better to be long than to too short.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
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    While you can run it hot, I don't see the advantage, cuz it'll be plenty hot when you cap it. Is this vertical, horizontal, or flat? It's all pretty much the same procedure, though. If you have a backer like steel or copper, it's a breeze...if you have to keyhole it, then it's tricky. Single V, I would prolly use 9 passes, or maybe 12. 9 will give you a less chance of voids, though. You'll do a root, face, and side bend test, and some voids are allowed. I always weave a little on mine rather than running a straight pass. Helps to stir up the liquid. It helps to over bend the plates before you start, that way when you are done, they will be flat. Hope I haven't confused ya.
    Arcin' and sparkin', Rocky D <><
    Experience is something you don't get until just after you need it.
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  3. #3
    enlpck is offline teacher student weldicatr
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    Don't try to fill too much at one pass, run straight stringers, and clean up between passes. Wire brush on one 4.5, hard wheel on the other, chipping hammer, smacking hammer, and a roundnose chisel are also handy. Do not be afraid to clean up and smooth things out between passes-- it makes the next pass a lot easier and reduces the risk of trapping crap or leaving voids. The more you practice, the less need you have for anything other than the wire brush (easiest way to deslag) and the chipping hammer.
    I may not be good looking, but I make up for it with my dazzling lack of personality

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
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    Joe,

    Don't loose sight of the fact that you have enrolled in the class to learn these things. Ask question of the instructor. Ask plenty of questions! That's what you paid your cash for.

    Hank
    ...from the Gadget Garage
    MM 210 w/3035, BWE
    HH 210 w/DP 3035
    TA185TSW
    Victor O/A "J" series, SuperRange
    Avatar courtesy of Bob Sigmon...

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Cartersville, GA
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    194

    Cool a few tips

    here is the key: spend more time cleaning in between your passes than you do welding. A lot of people give more credit than they should to the rod penetrating thru any slag you fail to clean off. It can lay as pretty a bead as you have ever seen right over the to of any trash you leave behind, and it will come back to haunt you in a bend test.

    If they let you use a grinder then it should be a breeze. In our AWS testing facility at the apprentice hall all that you are allowed to have in the booth is a welding hood, welding jacket, gloves, chipping hammer, wire brush, and a pic. They want you to achieve a passing weld with only the most basic tools, so no grinders at all. This makes it a lot more difficult for some people.

    Also more important in my opinion than technique is bead placement. Especially on a vertical do not leave a groove that is to tight to get the rod all of the way into the bottom of it.
    Don't sneeze with your hood down!!

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
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    Don't sneeze with your hood down!!

    Excellent advice!

    Hank
    ...from the Gadget Garage
    MM 210 w/3035, BWE
    HH 210 w/DP 3035
    TA185TSW
    Victor O/A "J" series, SuperRange
    Avatar courtesy of Bob Sigmon...

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Mid-West
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    693
    Quote Originally Posted by hankj View Post
    Don't sneeze with your hood down!!

    Excellent advice!

    Hank
    TRUE - TRUE ..........
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  8. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    w.va.
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    197
    Well,yeah practice makes perfect,1inch,got a backing plate no doubt,flat did you say?,generally they will tell you how they want you to do it from there,[ie gap,how they want the cap,stringer or weave etc],you just gotta figure it out if they don't,,with backing plate you got some options,,on root,,one stringer type root bead or two side by side,,than fill,cap you could weave or put stringers side by side,,and like was said,,if you can use a grinder/power brush,use it,,as you need it,it will warp on you,ain't much you can do there except maybe offsetting it some like was said,but it will still warp,maybe let it cool a little after each pass so's it don't get so hot,,[the hotter it gets it will seem like you are running higher amps,,true espiecally on cap,undercut],,,,just do it and than you can tell us how it went,etc,,,,,thingy

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Milan, MI.
    Posts
    351
    One thing I had a hard time with was undercut on the cap of the 3G test which is the verticle up test.

    When doing your cap make sure your not burning to hot run through the middle and pause at each edge making sure it wets in, ounce I figured that out the test was a breeze.

    If they let you grind between passes make sure to knock down any high spots and just as Rocky and others said clean between passes.

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