Horizontal Band Saw vs. Chop Saw

[Pele]

I've read on here a few times that people rarely use their chop saw when they got a horizontal band saw.

I've used a horizontal band saw before at a previous job. I like the ability to turn on the saw, and let it cut while I go and do something else...

I've never used a chop saw, but I've seen them used. It looks like they cut through things pretty quick.

Aside from those differences, is there anything the Chop saw CAN do that the horizontal band saw CAN'T do?

And vice versa...

In the name of saving space and cash, if the tools both get the job done, no point in buying both.

I'm leaning towards the horizontal... I'm not doing mass production, so speedily tearing through hundreds of pieces of angle iron or anything is not critical to me.

[tigman]

I personally would go with the bandsaw.

The chop saw is nice if you have some really hard material to cut that a standard bi-metal blade won't touch, in my case that is not too often.

You could always by a blade that will stand up to the harder material.

[Mike W]

Chop saw is good for hardened steel. That is the only time I need one.

[hankj]

Got both.

The chop saw is covered with dust, and currently inhabited by some spider dudes. The last person to use it was my neighbor to cut some rebar.

Answer your question?

Hank

[precisionworks]

Anything rough, really hard, or nasty goes on the abrasive chop saw.

Cuts that need to fit perfectly go on the 50 rpm Wilton cold saw.

Everything else goes on the band saw.

[Hotfoot]

The band saw gets most except that niggly little stuff too thick for the 36" cutters....but never walk away from the band saw....good way to bust a blade or burn out a motor. Too much "stuff" out there now with hard and soft spots, and I've had the saw jam up many times...easy to correct with a gentle lift, but bad if you are not there to do it!

[tigster]

get the horizontal band saw. you won't be sorry. i have a chop saw. haven't used it in about 3 years. got my horizontal band saw 3 years ago. i have used it exclusively and love it. i too like the ability to be able to do something else while it does its thing. i just make sure i don't leave the room so i can keep an eye on it.

[rustluver]

I have both and I use both. The chop saw is used mainly for hard or thin-walled stock.

[Rocky D]

I don't have a bandsaw...it might be nice, but I can do everything I need to do with a chop saw, and 10 times faster....I don't have the patience for a horizontal bandsaw, but then a vertical bandsaw I would use. I developed a stop for my saws which make repetitive cuts easy.

and

[Sparkeee24]

Howdy Howdy!

I am a believer in too many tools is a good thing.... Now, keep in mind, that I am a hobbyiest, so my projects are not done to sell. However! I have so many projects, that it does get frustrating waiting for a tool to finish it's job, or not having the right tool for the job.
I really gotta say that the Chop Saw gets tons of use at my place. They are fast. No way around it. I have a Wilton, (import, decent quality), a Milwuakee ( mexico import, impressive output!), and I HAD a harbor fright 50$ on sale model also... it worked fine, perfect for single stick 1/4" material or stacked 1/8" material, but week on power. The milwuakee far exceeded my expectations, having used the other two brands first. As with all tool types, blades make a HUGE difference!!! Name brand blades like Dewalt and Milwuakee kick butt! but they are about 7-10$ each. On sale, the Harbor fright blades are about 2$ each. the harbor fright blades wobble like all he!! , however they do cut just as fast ( or nearly as fast). The acuracy goes out the window with the wobbly blades. A stiff base makes a HUGE difference in accuracy. I LOVE the cast base on the milwuakee. I would get a dewalt if it had that feature. But I scored the Milwuakee at 42$ mis-priced clearance item... score!

I Love the Bandsaws also!! Slow...but oh so nice and quiet clean too...ish i.e. no sparks. I have better accuracy out of my bandsaws then any chopsaw. BUT! it takes a he!! of a lot of tinkering to get the blade guides lined up perfect, bi-metal blades with the same kerf on each side of the blade...and such. Then their is blade tension, speed, bow pressure and tooth contact. But, once you get those things figured out, they can be very accurate. I have 2 bandsaws. I have a Foremost tools 4X6, paid 2594 for it. Basically the standard import 4X6. Dry cut. It's awesome for 1/8" wall, all day long, or 1/4" wall occasionally. Just due to speed. My best success has been with 10-14 bi-metal variable pitch blades and the occasional light / thin cutting oil. Use the slowest speed ALWAYS with steel. Crank the tension up high for the blade. Use light bow pressure. You can tell alot from the chips it makes.

My second bandsaw is a used Carolina HV-12. It's originally a dry cut hor/vert bandsaw with 12" wheels, welded bow and base. it's LARGE. It cuts SOOOOOO nice! Soooo fast! I added a wet cut attatchment to it, and that made a huge difference in blade life. I extended the slide at which the moveable bearing and wheel fit in, and widened the guides to match so it can cut almost 14" material. I would not cut this thick materials, but I sometime cut 6" tubing at extreme angles. For truck bumpers and such. Ok, so that makes it 14" material I had to spend alot of time trueing this saw. It was never adjusted right from the original owner. This manufacturer made cheeper import tools, but they work great after tuning. I paid 200$ for it. 60$ I think for the wet cut kit. I stack 8 3X3" 1/4" angle steel on it with the wet cut on and walk away. they all come out the same. nice and squire. as square as I setup the vise.

I use both the chopsaw, and the big bangsaw at the same time, sometimes all three saws are running. All my materials are salvage, so there is alot of work usually to make usueable material out of welded salvage shapes. I have to cut the big structure into pieces that can fit into my tools with the cutting torch. then I grind the cut sides enough to keep the slag from interfering with the clamps and vises on the cutting tools. Then I usually cut the sticks into multi pieces for the right counts, as close to the crappy slag spots without including them in my new work. Then I take the stack of now clean pieces to the bandsaw and stack em so they are all the same cut.

I am building a flatbed deck-over trailer right now completely from salvage. I knew it would be a big project, but WOW! The only costs are The rod so far, and it'll nead new tires, and good wood decking. I am using a 28' camping trailer, taken apart down to the frame. Cut the last 8ft off. Then I am fabricating stronger spring mounts, and moving the axles to the appropriate place for a 20 ft trailer. then new tires. The deck over is fabbed up with 5" C channel of 1/4" thick + full way around, and one center spreader. then their are 86" long supports every two feet along its length to hold up the decking. This is 3"X3" 1/4" angle. this deck will be placed directly onto the camp trailer frame sub-structure. There is also 2X5" X1/4" tubing every two feet around the entire perimeter for stake pockets. It would have been so much easier with new sticks. But much more expensive.

So, I use Bandsaw, chopsaw, and cutting torch. Cutting wheel on grinder, and cutting wheel in a 7 1/4" worm drive skil saw. Hacksaw too. can't forget the handtools I had to start with.

they each have their place. Chopsaw is fast, loud, and not so accurate. for me. Bandsaw is slow, quiet, not a fire hazard, and lets you do other things while being more accurate.

You'll be happy with a 4X6 bandsaw. They can be had for as little as 159$ on sale at Harbor fright. Don't go cheep on blades. get a good bi-metal blade like metal matrix or Morse or Lennox or starrett or another name brand. vari-pitch definately helps. no teeth bigger then size 10 or you'll start to get chatter and break teeth.

Good luck! Brian Lee Sparkeee28

[Steve Crum]

I have a big old Kalamazoo horizontal band saw, a Scotsman 14" cold saw, a Makita 14" chop saw and 2 Milwaukee porta bands. The cold saw never touches anything but stainless, The horizontal is used for steel and with a blade change and clean out, stainless if needed. The deep cut Milwaukee is strictly for stainless, the standard Milwaukee is for steel and the Makita chop saw for making little scrap out of big scrap and when somebody stops by and wants to borrow a metal cutting saw.
I'd go with the bandsaw if I were to make the choice. Condiderably more accurate. less metal contamination and clean up of burrs and less risk of a hot spark igniting something than a chopsaw. Heck of a lot quieter too.

[tigman]

Rocky this is why I don't bother with my chopsaw, just to slow!

[Roospike]

Forget the bandsaw ...................

Get you a Multi cutting metal blade saw.

I had a nice Jet 6x12 band saw and a Dewalt chop saw ... sold the jet a few weeks after i bought it , its slow mans work , i kept the chop saw and also bought a Multi cutting metal blade saw , best choice i had made . I keep the chop saw around for hard steel , nasty steel , rebar and chain and une the multi cutter metal blade saw for everything else.

If you get a cheap bandsaw then you'll have to read all the threads on how to tweek it so it cuts straight or even cuts at all .

I woulnt even look at a bandsaw unless its an industrial model starting at atound $1200. for a lower end model and up.

[treborly]

The only saw i`ve used is a chop saw. It cuts fast, but heats up the steel alot and makes a mess. I use it only b/c its the only saw i have, probly wouldnt use it much at all if i had a cold saw or something similar.


Anyone know where to buy cold saws? cant find them in Canada

[air-sickness]

I seem to get alot of use from my portaband. I've gotten to the point where I can hardly tell the difference between the horizontal band saw and the portaband cuts Fir most fit-ups I can live with the 1/32 to 1/16 gap.