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  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    13

    welding thick rough metal

    hey,


    quick question: What is the best rod to use for welding thick 3/8" rough torch cut steel? I was thinking a large diameter 6011 because of it's diversity.



    thanks

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
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    Eastern, MA
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    That depends on what type of project you are undertaking. That type of info will help us help you.
    Lincoln 180c

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
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    Browns Valley, CA
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    A little more info would help. How rough? It might be better for the project to clean up the edges, but we need to know more up front.

    Hank
    ...from the Gadget Garage
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  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
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    South Carolina
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    I've had very good results doing multiple passes of 1/8" 6011 on 3/8" rough-cut diamond plate. However, while I didn't "prep-out" the sides of the plate, I at least ground off the bubbles of slag left over from the kerf on the top and bottom. Several months ago I built a small welding table that could pull triple duty as a welding table, chop-saw stand, and (for future use, I hope) a plasma table. Since it sits over in the corner of my meager shop on my farm and my customers never see it, I wasn't real concerned with final appearance and had great results with the 6011. I'll also add that after 4 passes (with cleaning in between, of course) of 6011, I capped the entire seam (original bevel at approx 30 degrees with 1/8" land at bottom of bevel) with two side-by-side runs of 5/32" 7018.
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  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2006
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    13
    sorry forgot the project details: I'm making a simple but heavy duty bumper for my friend's chevy 3500. The welding i'm talking about will be some 3/8" plate that i will either have torch cut or plasma cut. It will serve at the mounting brakets for the bumper, so it will not be seen, and i will grind off the slag but it will not have extremly smooth or even edges. Again, all that really matters here is strength.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    South Carolina
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    376
    The 6011 will do fine for what you're describing. In fact, with an extra 5% or 10% than recommended for your Amperage/Application, you'll probably burn the edges straight when you're welding them.
    Good luck and please post pictures of the finished bumper when you get a chance.
    ~Clint
    HOBART Champion 10,000
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    Clark 6" Bench Grinder
    DeWalt 4.5" Grinder
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    DeWalt 4.5" Grinder #3
    B&D 18V 3/8" Drill
    B&D 18V 3/8" Impact Driver


    Now in order to kill the enemy, our men must be roused to anger; that there may be advantage from defeating the enemy, they must have their rewards. ~Sun Tzu in "The Art of War"

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
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    Browns Valley, CA
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    8,518
    Quote Originally Posted by greengiant View Post
    sorry forgot the project details: I'm making a simple but heavy duty bumper for my friend's chevy 3500. The welding i'm talking about will be some 3/8" plate that i will either have torch cut or plasma cut. It will serve at the mounting brakets for the bumper, so it will not be seen, and i will grind off the slag but it will not have extremly smooth or even edges. Again, all that really matters here is strength.
    I don't understand why the edges of the pieces won't be smooth or even. A decent torch cut is pretty smooth and even, and plasma cut is nearly the same as a shear cut!

    6011 will do ther job fine.

    Hank
    ...from the Gadget Garage
    MM 210 w/3035, BWE
    HH 210 w/DP 3035
    TA185TSW
    Victor O/A "J" series, SuperRange
    Avatar courtesy of Bob Sigmon...

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
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    Clark County, NV
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    5,078
    I'd spend more time making a clean torch cut than choosing the rod. In fact, if the steel was nice and clean, and since it'll be off the truck before you start you should be able to clean it well, I'd use brand new 7018 myself, if you have the machine to run it well. What machine is it?

    I might run a first pass with 6010/6011, but joint design means more than edge prep.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
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    Davenport, Iowa
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    824
    Quote Originally Posted by MAC702 View Post
    I'd spend more time making a clean torch cut than choosing the rod. In fact, if the steel was nice and clean, and since it'll be off the truck before you start you should be able to clean it well, I'd use brand new 7018 myself, if you have the machine to run it well. What machine is it?

    I might run a first pass with 6010/6011, but joint design means more than edge prep.
    I'm with Mac on this one. With 7018 you can pause or drag a little to fill in the lows or kinda skip over the highs and come up with a fairly even pass.You can do the same with the 6010/11 but its easier with the 18...Clint said the same thing...

  10. #10
    enlpck is offline teacher student weldicatr
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
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    nj
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    I third Mac. Clean cuts and clean material make the job better and faster.

    If the cuts are rough and already done, your best friend is a grinder.
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  11. #11
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Cincinnati, OH
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    1,266
    7018 rods...definately MY favorite!!....
    HH140
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    The proceeding is my opinion and my opinion alone. Its not to be considered FACT, nor to be construed as pure FICTION either. Others opinion’s may vary .

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    19

    7024 Ac

    7024 or 7018 AC stick electrodes are good for that kind of stuff, unless the metal is rusty. If its rusty, you should use this new tool called a flap disk. 7024 and 7018 electrodes are low hydrogen electrodes that leave great deposits and run like butter on AC, just make sure you have the right heat and that your putting all your weight down for the first pass. It should sound quiet like eggs frying. Don't ever waste your time with E60XX electrodes, they're weak, work poorly on high sulfur or high phosphorus steel, and leave dirty deposits. E70XX or nothing.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
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    Quote Originally Posted by repairman View Post
    ... 7024 and 7018 electrodes are low hydrogen electrodes that leave great deposits and run like butter on AC... Don't ever waste your time with E60XX electrodes, they're weak, ....
    7024 is NOT a low-hy electrode.

    7018 is not designed for AC, unless it's 7018AC, and even then it's much better on a machine with a high OCV.

    Define weak.

    Any statement that begins "Don't ever..." is almost always wrong.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    19

    You were right and you misunderstood

    7024 is not a low hydrogen electrode, you were right, I had always assumed that until i google searched 5 minutes ago, but I meant that the rod I suggested was 7018AC not 7018 and I should have clarified that. By weak I mean that the tensile strength is lower and it is more suceptible to slag inclusions. Also, my machine has a nominal OCV of 90 Volts plus or minus 15, so I took that for granted.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Austin TX
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    4,861
    Quote Originally Posted by MAC702 View Post
    7018 is not designed for AC, unless it's 7018AC, and even then it's much better on a machine with a high OCV.
    Actually, 7018 is designed for AC or DCEP. The last digit of the AWS designation indicates usability of the electrode, i.e. type of current and the type of covering. "8" indicates AC or DC and a low-hydrogen coating. 7018AC is specifically intended for low OCV sources, such as lower-end transformer welders.
    Quote Originally Posted by repairman
    Don't ever waste your time with E60XX electrodes, they're weak
    There's an uninformed statement at best. 60-series electrodes have a tensile strength of 60 ksi, certainly more than the 36ksi of most mild structural steel. 6010 rods are routinely used on root passes on pipeline welding and out-of-position plate work.They have a light slag with little slag interference and are capable of x-ray quality welds, out-of-position. What part of that sounds like dirty and weak?
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