plug'n'chug process?

[ej4]

Quick question - I've been browsing posts for awhile here. I am looking to get a welder for misc stuff; I've used a stick long ago, but never mig/tig. One question I don't think I've seen answered is - which type (stick/mig/tig) is the quickest to use when doing one-off work? i.e. sit down, turn it on, and go; finish one or two welds, shut it off, and go inside.

I'm leaning toward a mig hh187, but am I going to be fiddling with settings, speeds, adjustments, gas, etc. all the time? or after it's dialed in once, is a mig/tig plug'n' play.

I tend to have very limited time for projects (3 yr old son likes to help out in the shop), and seldom have a lot of time to really sit down and concentrate through processes, even though I'd like to. I need something with robust capability (22ga - 1/4", fixing woodworking machinery, and building misc. stuff),mid-upper range in quality, that I won't have to re-learn every time I do it, if I only get 'alone time' in the shop once a week (or month).

Any suggestions for which process (or machine) I should be considering?

Thanks-
ed

[Mike W]

Mig is close to plug and play. Just get a 220 volt machine.

[Goodhand]

You've just described my 110 volt Century 125. I use C25 and get great results. One of my first projects was welding together 16 gauge sheet for a roof scuttle, and just finished welding tubes and brake bosses for a SWB recumbent bicycle. I, recently, used it to fab a tow bar hitch out of 1/4 and 3/8 plate and 1" solid bar for pulling a small utility trailer. Rarely does a week go by that I don't use it for something.

[MAC702]

...I'm leaning toward a mig hh187...

I'd stop leaning and start welding. That's a great choice for a simple machine that will still do a lot. There is a very accurate chart in the door for the settings and then a very small adjustment in wire speed will make it perfect for most every weld in a part-timer's shop.

[Tobias]

I'd stop leaning and start welding. That's a great choice for a simple machine that will still do a lot. There is a very accurate chart in the door for the settings and then a very small adjustment in wire speed will make it perfect for most every weld in a part-timer's shop.

Yup. My 180 (now 187( not that I have the 187)) is like that.


Tobias.

[smyrna5]

I only have a Handler 140, so I can't go up to 1/4" in one pass, but if you have 230V, and want to weld thicker stuff, I would go for the HH 187. Since I only use flux core, it only takes me however long it takes to roll my cart into the driveway, put on my helmet and gloves, plug it in and start welding. I work at home on my computer, but I often just do a quick little job in between other stuff I have to do during the day. With C25, you will only have to open an additional valve to start making sparks.

[Mikboo]

I got one this weekend... would not have known about it with out your post. TX’S

[ej4]

Thanks for the recommendations, guys. I was considering an old stick AC-only because it was cheap, but I think I'll wait to scrape up a few more bucks. Buy once, cry once.

-ed

[Goodhand]

I only have a Handler 140, so I can't go up to 1/4" in one pass, but if you have 230V, and want to weld thicker stuff, I would go for the HH 187. Since I only use flux core, it only takes me however long it takes to roll my cart into the driveway, put on my helmet and gloves, plug it in and start welding. I work at home on my computer, but I often just do a quick little job in between other stuff I have to do during the day. With C25, you will only have to open an additional valve to start making sparks.

You say you can't go up to 1/4" in one pass, but have you ever tried to do a circular weave with .030? By experimenting with various weaves, you may find that you can, indeed, go to 1/4" in a single pass with your 140. Weaving slows progression of the puddle and keeps the arc feeding heat into a larger area, resulting in a wider, thicker bead with better penetration.

[smyrna5]

You say you can't go up to 1/4" in one pass, but have you ever tried to do a circular weave with .030? By experimenting with various weaves, you may find that you can, indeed, go to 1/4" in a single pass with your 140. Weaving slows progression of the puddle and keeps the arc feeding heat into a larger area, resulting in a wider, thicker bead with better penetration.

Well, I must confess I have never tried it, just going by what the manufacturers literature suggests. So far, I haven't had the need to weld anything that thick, but if I do, I may try it.

[Goodhand]

Well, I must confess I have never tried it, just going by what the manufacturers literature suggests. So far, I haven't had the need to weld anything that thick, but if I do, I may try it.

I often stop by a local welding shop to pick up scrap pieces of metal in a variety of shapes, using some of them to experiment and practice techniques.

[Jim-Tx]

Thanks for the recommendations, guys. I was considering an old stick AC-only because it was cheap, but I think I'll wait to scrape up a few more bucks. Buy once, cry once.

-ed

If you have a need to weld 22 ga that pretty much rules out a stick welder unless you have a lot of welding experience on thin stuff.

[PeteZ28]

Nothing wrong with a stick machine either, might even be better if you have thicker work to do.

But spending a few extra bucks on a DC machine is highly advisable! The difference between AC and DC stick is night and day, especially for out of position welding like vertical or upside-down.

[Goodhand]

Well, I must confess I have never tried it, just going by what the manufacturers literature suggests. So far, I haven't had the need to weld anything that thick, but if I do, I may try it.

When physicians use a medication to treat an ailment that the manufacturer has not claimed its drug is effective on, it is referred to as an, "off label" use. I suppose the same can be said of various welding techniques, given a specific machine.