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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Gilmer Texas
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    114

    Threading 5/8" rod.

    I am building pasture dragger with wheels on it to spread the horse poop in the pasture. For an axle I used 5/8" rod, I was going to cotter key the wheels on when someone on the site suggested going with nylock nuts. It was an excellent idea. Went and bought a 5/8 thread die. It took for ever to get the thing started. I was able to thread both sides of the axle but it took a while to get it going. Is there a trick to making it easier to get the thread cutting die started. I was using WD 40 as a lubricant. Any imput would be appreciated.
    Still in the learning process of working with metal.

    Perry

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    chico, ca
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    518
    grind the end to a slight taper all the way around the shaft kinda like a pencil < but not pointed. just enough to start the die. and use motor oil or hydraulic oil to lube the threads. wd40 has very little lube effect.
    tc.....jim

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  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Gilmer Texas
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    114
    Thanks for the quick reply. I did put a slight taper on the end but only about 1/8" down around the top. Will also use oil next time not WD 40.

    Perry

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    Central Kali
    Posts
    5,292
    There is a big difference in thread cutting lubes. I have had good results with MSC Formula 1.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Rochester, NY
    Posts
    145
    Cutting threads builds up a lot of heat quickly. I find automotive gear lube (80W-140, I think it is - don't keep it by the computer ! ) works very well as a coolant / lube. The relatively high viscosity cools the threads and lets the chips flow slowly away from the cut. As in most metal cutting operations, heat is the enemy and must be controlled. Excessive heat & friction due to lack of coolant, can alter the size of the theads and gall the threaded surface.

    Putting a taper on the end of the shaft to start the die is the right way to go. If possible, I cut the shaft a little longer than finish size and put a uniform slow taper on the shaft. Once the threads are cut, I cut the shaft to the desired length, eliminating the tapered end.

    My 2¢
    -Bob

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
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    N.C.
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    1,261
    also don't forget to turn it clockwise for 1/4 to 1/2 turn then turn it back that 1/4 or 1/2 turn to clean out the chips and help control heat.....
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  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Austin TX
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    4,861
    Another thing that can cause trouble starting threads with a die is if you're using hot-rolled steel. Some HR rounds are considerably oversize, and are often way out of round too. Get some thread cutting oil, you can find it at any plumbing supply as it's used for threading "black" steel pipe.
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  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Posts
    609
    You should reduce the diameter of the 5/8 shaft before attempting to thread. With normal
    threading you are going for 75% threads. If you don't reduce the shaft size you probably
    be getting close to 100% threads which are unnecessary for your work, add little extra strength over 75% threads and take a lot more effort to make. Cutting fluid is cheap in a small bottle. WD-40 is not a cutting fluid.
    Nick
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  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Dallas, Texas
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    354
    Quote Originally Posted by 84ZMike View Post
    also don't forget to turn it clockwise for 1/4 to 1/2 turn then turn it back that 1/4 or 1/2 turn to clean out the chips and help control heat.....
    I'm glad you said that.

    Its amazing how many people think using a tap or a die is just like turning in a regular nut or bolt.

    The kids I work with used to break about 2 taps per 3 holes they tried to thread.
    After I showed them the trick with the cutting oil, backing out & clearing the chips every 1/4 turn or so that nonsense all stopped.

    They got so good about not breaking taps I even got them the expensive, gold Titanium Nitride coated ones to use now.
    And the first one is still good after tapping about 300 8-32 holes.

    .
    "Gone are the days of wooden ships, and Iron men.
    I doubt if we shall ever see thier likes again".
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    Author: unknown member of the USCG.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Gilmer Texas
    Posts
    114
    Thanks agian for the great information. I was clearing the threads every full turn which is way to much from what you guys are saying. Also will use cutting oil for next project.

    Perry

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Posts
    609
    Remember..........different lube for different metals such as steel, aluminum
    Nick
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  12. #12
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Richmond, Virginia
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    5,320
    Get some dark pipe threading oil (for steel), Tapmagic (or the like) or even use lard or bacon grease. You might get away with kerosene or WD-40 for Aluminum, but not for steel.

    Check the specs on the size of the thread and make sure the area to be threaded is of the correct size, and chamfer the end slightly.
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  13. #13
    Join Date
    May 2005
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    1,559
    Quote Originally Posted by usmcpop View Post
    .. even use lard or bacon grease. ....
    Absolutely, and a plus is it doesn't just run off the rod, fresh lube at every turn, and it's a handy snack. "butter" one side of a slice o' rye bread with the bacon grease, put in hot skillet, add one egg on top of bread (sunny side up), cook a bit, flip, enjoy.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Black Forest, Colorado
    Posts
    121
    A former machist friend of mine told me to to use tapmagic too. One bottle would last me forever he says.

    I'd probably weld some threaded rod or a bolt on the end , but then again I'll use about any excuse to fire up the welder so I cant be trusted to answer this question without some bias. Darn thing really is addictive.....

    I would really like to see some pictures of your project, it sounds cool.

    Regards,

    Kurt
    HH 175
    Monkey Wards AC/DC Stick

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Gilmer Texas
    Posts
    114
    I will try to post some pic's when I get done.

    Perry

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