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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Posts
    163

    Welding helmets and picture quality.

    I was looking at welding DVDs and was amazed how clear details of the puddle and surrounding area were. That would make for easier puddle control and better welds if I could see like that when welding. I know that my cheap auto darkening helmet has something to do with it.
    I do not want to spent top $ and I am willing to get the old fashion helmet providing that I can get that kind of picture clarity.
    What do you think about those: http://www.hobartwelders.com/weldit/...g-helmets.html ?
    Would they give me that kind of picture quality? Are they all pretty much the same as long as they are from good manufacture?
    Last edited by lwj; 12-23-2006 at 11:02 PM.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    S.E. Wisconsin
    Posts
    4,544

    Lightbulb

    You need to link what you were watching , for an objective answer , who knows what the camera was looking thru ?


    In the beginning, the Earth was without form, and void.
    When one picks up some wood or metal or stone and shapes it into something usefull
    ... I beleive that it has to be a deliberate effort to disavow a creator.

    As you work these, and join them, you feel the force and the will of He
    who formed and shaped the very resorces that you now add your will and force to.
    Further one surely can know when your will and force is not aligned with His.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    807
    If you are thinking of a fixed shade hood, pay a visit to your LWS. They will have at least a small assortment if not a wide selection. You will want to buy a top dollar hood in the fixed shade category. Even then we are only talking about $50 or $60 dollars. The reason is the head gear. On the cheap hoods it can be rather uncomfortable. Try some on and you will see what I am talking about. I would suggest getting a hood with a 4"x5" lens. This will give you a large viewing area and will accept a premium AD lens when you are ready to upgrade. I have a Jackson Halo-X hood and love it! They are very light and comfortable.

    I had a Hobart "Flip Lens" fixed shade hood and I hated the headgear. It was fine for handing to a guest in the shop, but no good for everyday use.

    Be sure to buy a shade 11 lens for your helmet as well. I would even suggest trying the shade 11 first, before you ever use the shade 10. With fixed shade lenses you want to use the darkest one that still allows you to see the puddle. This is because they will only protect you to the specified value. An AD hood will protect you to a shade 14 even when it is off.
    HH187, TA 185 AC/DC Arcmaster, Hypertherm Powermax 380 Plasma
    Smithy 1220 LX Lathe
    Peter Wright 132 (198lbs) anvil
    Hoods: Jackson Nexgen and Hobart/Miller XLi
    Victor compatible med duty OA setup
    Chop Saw, 4x6 Band Saw

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    Albuquerque, NM
    Posts
    4,986
    Hard to beat the Jackson Shadow, about $30 and ok headgear ... I gave mine away when I got the Miller BWE thinking that with the Optrel and the BWE I wouldn't need anything else. But I am finding that the 4 X 5 Jackson with a #8 gold lens was perfect for low amp tig, hmmm maybe I need to get me a new years present after christmas settles down.
    Regards, George

    Hobart Handler 210 w/DP3035 - Great 240V small Mig
    Hobart Handler 140 - Great 120V Mig
    Hobart Handler EZ125 - IMO the best 120V Flux Core only machine

    Miller Dynasty 200DX with cooler of my design, works for me
    Miller Spectrum 375 - Nice Cutter

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    Aumsville, Oregon
    Posts
    5,202
    Quote Originally Posted by Sundown View Post
    Hard to beat the Jackson Shadow, about $30 and ok headgear ... I gave mine away when I got the Miller BWE thinking that with the Optrel and the BWE I wouldn't need anything else. But I am finding that the 4 X 5 Jackson with a #8 gold lens was perfect for low amp tig, hmmm maybe I need to get me a new years present after christmas settles down.
    Yeah George, you made a BIG MISTAKE by getting rid of the Jackson Shadow. You definitely need a replacement soon. I don't use a gold lens in mine, but I have 2 Jackson Shadows, one at work, and one at home, that I use strictly for low amperage TIG work. My eyes are a few years younger then yours, not necessarily better considering how near sighted I am, however, I most use a shade 9 in these two hoods. Ocassionally though, some of my repair work requires me to weld an outside corner joint on 20 ga or thinner 304L, which requires me to drop down to a shade 8.
    MigMaster 250- Smooth arc with a good touch of softness to it. Good weld puddle wetout. Light spatter producer.
    Ironman 230 - Soft arc with a touch of agressiveness to it. Very good weld puddle wet out. Light spatter producer.

    MM 210-Looking for a new home locally
    PM 180C



    HH 125 EZ - impressive little fluxcore only unit

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Posts
    163
    Quote Originally Posted by vicegrip View Post
    You need to link what you were watching , for an objective answer , who knows what the camera was looking thru ?
    Unfortunatly it is a DVD and any link to it contents would be copy right volation - I think.
    Here is link to the titles: http://smartflix.com/index.php?main_...products_id=11
    http://smartflix.com/index.php?main_...products_id=54
    http://smartflix.com/index.php?main_...products_id=49

    Quote Originally Posted by BillDaCatt View Post
    You will want to buy a top dollar hood in the fixed shade category. Even then we are only talking about $50 or $60 dollars. The reason is the head gear. On the cheap hoods it can be rather uncomfortable. Try some on and you will see what I am talking about. I would suggest getting a hood with a 4"x5" lens. This will give you a large viewing area and will accept a premium AD lens when you are ready to upgrade. I have a Jackson Halo-X hood and love it! They are very light and comfortable.

    Be sure to buy a shade 11 lens for your helmet as well. I would even suggest trying the shade 11 first, before you ever use the shade 10. With fixed shade lenses you want to use the darkest one that still allows you to see the puddle. This is because they will only protect you to the specified value. An AD hood will protect you to a shade 14 even when it is off.
    Very good point. Never thought about head gear even so mine is rather uncomfortable. In this price range it is worth to invest not only in quality lens, but also in good head gear.
    In above mentioned DVDs guy is useing #9 lens and maybe they use lower # lens on camera which allows for more details, but what risk is involved going to a lower # lens and is it worth the trade between quality and safety ( I am talking only couple shade #s )
    .
    Quote Originally Posted by Sundown View Post
    Hard to beat the Jackson Shadow, about $30 and ok headgear ... I gave mine away when I got the Miller BWE thinking that with the Optrel and the BWE I wouldn't need anything else. But I am finding that the 4 X 5 Jackson with a #8 gold lens was perfect for low amp tig, hmmm maybe I need to get me a new years present after christmas settles down.
    What minimum # would you use for stick and Mig?

    Quote Originally Posted by Dan View Post
    My eyes are a few years younger then yours, not necessarily better considering how near sighted I am, however, I most use a shade 9 in these two hoods. Ocassionally though, some of my repair work requires me to weld an outside corner joint on 20 ga or thinner 304L, which requires me to drop down to a shade 8.
    My eyes are part of the problem (need to wear reading glasses) so I need a hood that will work with glasses under the hood. What I can tell looks like most of them have enough room for them.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    CA
    Posts
    251
    I'm convinced I need this (based on recommendations above)

    ...think I'll go with blue:
    http://cgi.ebay.com/JACKSON-SHADOW-W...QQcmdZViewItem
    MM 21
    Dynasty 2 DX
    ptrel Satellite

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Jackson Co., W.Va.
    Posts
    182
    folks i know it sounds like im preachin here but i just cant say enough good things about my Miller Elite. headgear seems to be the kicker in this topic, mines as comfortable and sturdy as can be, as well as light(helmet weighs 1.2 lbs total). it came with a front cushioned pad and a removable rear pad that just wraps around the adjustment knob. as far as shade goes, i think it ranges from 9-13( dont have it in the house here with me). its got a sensitivity knob with a grind position, and a delay control. the clarity of the lens is amazing, i dont have any problem seeing the weld puddle with mig, fc or stick, and its a pretty big view field( 3.81" x 2.62" ). i know i sound like a **** paid commercial but just my opinion, its the best helmet ive ever owned or used.

    Miller 175
    Lincoln SA-200
    Hobart D-300
    Sears Craftsman 200
    Victor O/A
    Harris O/A
    too much other stuff to write home about

    "Ya reckon that'll fit in the shop??" the man asked. I said, "I dont know but if it don't we can cut it in half and weld it back when we get it in there!!"

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    FT Stewart, GA
    Posts
    22
    I just picked up a HF hood made by campbell housefeld as I gave my old POS hood to a buddy. He was using a sheild viewer ( handle on the bottom ) to do body work. Anyway it was about $100 AD with adjustable shade knob on left side of hood. The headgear is pretty good have to push knob in slightly to turn for tighten or loosen. Havent quite got the tension right to hold it up and be able to flip it when ready. I've used it only three times and just for 70 amps and 1/2" to 1" beads, but like it so far. Hasn't impressed me yet but still evaulating it. Have used a few different hoods mostly fixed shade but as far as AD the BWE, my old no name POS, and this one. Would jump for a BWE of my own but finances holding me back. If I were you get something you are going to like; try it on first, try a buddies welding, see if you can try it at you LWS.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    Aumsville, Oregon
    Posts
    5,202
    Quote Originally Posted by lwj View Post
    My eyes are part of the problem (need to wear reading glasses) so I need a hood that will work with glasses under the hood. What I can tell looks like most of them have enough room for them.
    I've needed to wear glasses for my near sightedness, for a good 25 years now. I haven't found a hood yet that didn't allow me to wear my glasses.

    I will state, for wire welding, I wouldn't want to be without a AD hood. Why? Because the AD hood pretty much guarantees that you'll fire off the arc in the correct location. My Jackson Nexgen was spendy, but it was definitely worth it. Very good clear weld puddle visibility.
    MigMaster 250- Smooth arc with a good touch of softness to it. Good weld puddle wetout. Light spatter producer.
    Ironman 230 - Soft arc with a touch of agressiveness to it. Very good weld puddle wet out. Light spatter producer.

    MM 210-Looking for a new home locally
    PM 180C



    HH 125 EZ - impressive little fluxcore only unit

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    314
    Quote Originally Posted by ol_rowdy1982 View Post
    folks i know it sounds like im preachin here but i just cant say enough good things about my Miller Elite. headgear seems to be the kicker in this topic, mines as comfortable and sturdy as can be, as well as light(helmet weighs 1.2 lbs total). it came with a front cushioned pad and a removable rear pad that just wraps around the adjustment knob. as far as shade goes, i think it ranges from 9-13( dont have it in the house here with me). its got a sensitivity knob with a grind position, and a delay control. the clarity of the lens is amazing, i dont have any problem seeing the weld puddle with mig, fc or stick, and its a pretty big view field( 3.81" x 2.62" ). i know i sound like a **** paid commercial but just my opinion, its the best helmet ive ever owned or used.

    I agree! I just picked up a brand new Miller Elite(Joker graphics) for $200 from my local welding supplier last week. Its a GREAT helmet. Only negative, its NOT made in the U.S.. Jackson Nexgen is a good helmet to, I just don't like the push buttons for adjusting everything. The miller has dials.
    After new year i'm gonna be picking up a Welmark AD lens, and i'll let you know how it works.
    Last edited by johnny_waz; 12-25-2006 at 10:33 AM.
    Millermatic 180 DC,Miller Spoolmatic 3,Miller HF-251-D1 _ Lincoln Cobramatic/Cobramatic Gold
    Millermatic 200 with pulse/spot/burnback panel DC ______Lincoln Idealarc Tig 300/300 AC/DC
    Miller ECONO twin HF 150 AC/DC .______________________ Lincoln Idealarc R3R 300 DC
    Miller Trailblazer 250G AC/DC (20hp. Onan) .___________ Lincoln Buzz box 225/125 AC/DC
    O/A Harris, Purox, Victor, Torchweld (To many to list) .___AIRCO wire feeder

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    S.E. Wisconsin
    Posts
    4,544
    if Ya have a helmet that works great , but the head gear $ucks , theres plenty of options that can be swapped into your shell , ive done two that way


    In the beginning, the Earth was without form, and void.
    When one picks up some wood or metal or stone and shapes it into something usefull
    ... I beleive that it has to be a deliberate effort to disavow a creator.

    As you work these, and join them, you feel the force and the will of He
    who formed and shaped the very resorces that you now add your will and force to.
    Further one surely can know when your will and force is not aligned with His.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    46
    I haven't seen the videos but it could be that they have the camera synced to the frequency of the welder so that it takes the picture in between the arc flashes making the process much more clear.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Posts
    163
    It was right advice from BillDaCatt to visit LWS. I looked and tried few different brands, some were O.K. and some were terrible as far as fit goes. It came down to Jackson and ProStar by Praxair. Praxair won by not much but for me was more comfortable and the price was better. I got #9 lens also ProStar by Praxair (they do not make them, just sell them) and it is glass rather than polycarbon that comes with helmet.
    Picture quality is the same as on video - I can see all the details.
    BTW, My old helmet is auto darkening helmet from HF which I kept on #9.
    I do not see much advantage of AD helmet over fixed in mig process since you can place the wire end where you need it, lower the helmet and squeeze the trigger.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Southern BC, Canada
    Posts
    1,380
    The best optical clarity is from Hornell Speedglas hoods, if you can afford them For their price youd expect better headgear though. It works, just not real fancy like miller's new headgear.

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