ideas for tool to remove 4'x8' siding

[glockdoc]

residing a few houses that currently have 5/8 T1-11 siding on them. Looking to fab a tool to help peel this stuff off as a whole sheet. Easy enough to get the edges loose but need something to reach in and break loose the center row of nails. Any ideas?

[rlarkin]

If used properly, this little gem can do it without any damage to the panel.

[Pile Buck]

Take you pick.


http://www.mikestools.com/Cats-Paws_1019.aspx

[Sandy]

Those galvys are a real pain, especially once the studs have hardened. Grind or shear the heads off in the field area you can't reach with a bar??

[theonlybull]

sometimes, a long leaf spring, can be shaped with a lil' heat, to work for a long pry....

[Pile Buck]

These things must be part leaf spring, can’t say I’ve ever seen one bent!



http://www.equipment2u.com/family.ph...ly_id=10000252

[glockdoc]

Used the grinder idea a few days ago to break down some pallets to make the siding carrier. Took the grinders to the job yesterday but didn't use them, we were able to get the siding off using a long pry bar/digging bar (very heavy) but need something better. Was using a cats paw last month to pull the nails but slow. I'm having to reach in 2 ft to get to the nails and there is nothing to pry against other than the stud with the nails (24" ctrs). Just pulling like **** on the panel doesn't get it, too much spring in the plywood and doesn't do the sheetrock much good inside. When we get to the back I will try taking pics to better understand what we are up against.

[Terry Lingle]

If used properly, this little gem can do it without any damage to the panel.

Never seen one of those used without damage as the first step is to pound the jaws below the head of the nail . They are also way slow for a large job.

This is probably a case where letting the nails pull through or come out as they will is the best over all option . Don't wast time trying to pull the tight ones just drive them home. A couple of matching pry bars with wide pivots one above and one below the tough nail will do the least damage. The real question is "Is the salvage worth the extra time cost ?"
Terry

[astroracer]

Why can't you just leave the T-111 hanging there? That's what I did when I sided my house and barn. I removed all of the trim, wrapped the structures with Tyvek and proceeded to side... I had no problems leaving the wood siding. It just acts as a sheathing and gives a little more noise and wind insurance...
Mark

[whateg0]

Why can't you just leave the T-111 hanging there? That's what I did when I sided my house and barn. I removed all of the trim, wrapped the structures with Tyvek and proceeded to side... I had no problems leaving the wood siding. It just acts as a sheathing and gives a little more noise and wind insurance...
Mark

I guess I should let the OP answer for himself, but I'd guess that since he wants the sheets intact, that he's salvaging them for other use.

Just my 2.5 cents.

Dave

[Hotfoot]

'haven't tried it, but it WILL work. Use a hole saw, zip around each remaining nail. Then it will be easy to go back and remove them all with a simple crowbar. I thought of that because I've done anumber of spot weld drill-outs on cars, and this is, in an abstract sense, the same situation.

You could go clean through, or leave 1/16" or so to break off. I'd go all the way..

[arcdawg]

We just resided a house over the summer (cedar siding ) and I did all the demo of the old siding and I used at Dasco pro shingle ripper......(www.toolsplus.com)

I think that no matter how hard you try your going to end up with a little damage on the plywood when removing old siding. taking your time will lessen the damage though -

[JP-Fab]

Here Is what I use http://www.mustangmfg.com/mustangmfg...s.php?type=4.0 With forks,, course I don't have to put anything back!

[glockdoc]

Thanx for the ideas. Leaving the siding on would be a good one If I had sided these houses 5 or 10 years ago. There are a few areas that would never hold a nail. The next house to side literally has mushrooms growing out of the siding-its bad, a good candidate for a mold suit. A first class job with this Hardie plank would be to wrap the house with 1/2 cdx then maybe some foamboard insulation. It would smooth out some of the waves in the studs and allow closer spacing on the nailing. 24" spacing blind nailing this stuff is really pushing it.
Hole saw would probably be the ticket if they had used ring-shank nails. I'm trying to salvage the sheets that are still in good shape, probably to floor an attic so doesn't have to be pretty. Also makes it easier to handle in full sheets. Already tried hammering the nails in,slow, hard on the sheetrock and everything that "was hanging on the walls".

[Skipper]

get on a lader and break the sheets loose form the top first. Go down behing the sheeting with a crow bar and pull the sheet from the top while prying on the studs with the crowbar. Anyway you do it if you are trying to save some wood is gonn abe slow though. Man.....That hardi plank is some aggrivatong stuff to put up. especially on from a high walkboard. Forget driving a hand nail through it unless you predrill first. Nail it with the nail gun but practice on a few small peices to get the pressure set right first.