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  1. #16
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Nova Scotia, Canada
    Posts
    158
    Quote Originally Posted by rlarkin
    At the $2.39 per lb that I just paid for .030 Lincoln I don't worry about the last 10'.

    Yeah thats great when you live in the states, but here in nova scotia when you have to $13-15 a lb, every little bit counts. But I just pull it out and throw it away. Mac, It worked a little bit maybe pushed out a couple of feet then it birdnested but for convience sake, just pull it out
    Lincoln Sp135t
    Miller Thunderbolt AC/DC
    Red Flames BWE

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Los Angeles
    Posts
    5,476
    Quote Originally Posted by rlarkin
    How in the devil do you cut a V-notch in .024 wire, or any wire for that mater!

    You have to use a Lefthanded V-Notch wire cutter
    Ed Conley
    Screaming Broccoli, Inc
    http://www.screamingbroccoli.net/
    MM252
    MM211
    Miller Passport Plus, Spoolmate 100
    TA185
    SO 2020 Bender
    Miller 125c Plasma
    "Hold my beer while I try this!"

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Lodi, Ca.
    Posts
    303
    Quote Originally Posted by Broccoli1
    You have to use a Lefthanded V-Notch wire cutter
    Would it not be easier to center punch and drill the end, then grind a point on the new spool!

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Los Angeles
    Posts
    5,476
    Quote Originally Posted by rlarkin
    Would it not be easier to center punch and drill the end, then grind a point on the new spool!

    You have to get the keys to the AC first, so as not to over heat the work piece with ambient shop temperatures
    Ed Conley
    Screaming Broccoli, Inc
    http://www.screamingbroccoli.net/
    MM252
    MM211
    Miller Passport Plus, Spoolmate 100
    TA185
    SO 2020 Bender
    Miller 125c Plasma
    "Hold my beer while I try this!"

  5. #20
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Richmond, Virginia
    Posts
    5,315
    These guys can make a .010" tap with 400 threads per inch, so maybe they can provide a connector that's only .024 in diameter and you can screw it together. http://www.morris01550.com/products.htm

    Check the thread dimensions: http://www.morris01550.com/minithre.htm The head of a .30 UNM x 318 thread-per-inch screw is only .021" across!
    --- RJL ----------------------------------------------

    Ordinarily I'm insane, but I have lucid moments when I'm merely stupid.
    -------------------------
    DialArc 250
    SyncroWave 250 w/Coolmate 3
    SP-175+
    TA 161STL
    Lincwelder AC180C circa 1950
    Victor & Smith's O/A
    Dayton (Miller) spot welder
    1200 sq.ft. of garage filled with crap
    A kid that can actually run the stuff +++

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    Central Kali
    Posts
    5,292

    Talking

    With a real tiny file. Just throw the sucker away.

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Posts
    67
    I used to push the old wire out with the new quite often. Most of the time it worked. You
    still have to pull the last few inches through the contact tube.
    But that was when I was using a longer cable. With the 6 or 8 footer I'm using now it
    does'nt seem to be worth the trouble.

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    Central Florida
    Posts
    1,246
    Can't you just butt weld the two wires together?
    Bill C
    "The more I learn about welding the more I find there is to learn..."

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Posts
    67
    Quote Originally Posted by BillC
    Can't you just butt weld the two wires together?

    That's not so far-fetched.
    I once had a 300# ESAB "TUB-O-WIRE" where they had spliced the wire together
    with lap joints. Not just in one spot, but throughout the whole barrel. Must've been
    5 or 6 places.What a PITA. To this day I won't buy any ESAB product for my
    own use at home. What they buy at work is what I have to use.

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