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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Posts
    519

    P.......s Poor T Joint Welds

    I didn't think it looked too bad until after I cut it open . What did I do wrong ? I used a circular motion pulling and one side is with a 50/4 setting and the other is with a 50/3 .
    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Posts
    519
    Oh and I am useing a MM210 with 75/25

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Lafayette, La
    Posts
    560
    Pay closer attention to your torch angle. Pic 1&2 shows you wetted in well on the vertical piece but cold and not wetted to the flat piece. Direct your nozzle more evenly between the two pieces. When your pulling are you leaning forward too much? That would make it run a bit colder also. As would too much standoff.
    You didn't say how thick the pieces were. Looks like 1/4". If so, 4/55 to 4/60 setting should work fine.
    That's a problem with pulling mig. You can't always see where you're going.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
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    519
    Oh sorry it is 3/16ths , would you suggest pushing instead ?

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Tennessee
    Posts
    594
    Don't pull. Push at about a 15 degree angle. Also, as mentioned, angle a bit more towards the middle of the joint...and MOVE FASTER. You're getting cold lap, where the metal just rolls over on bottom, without making penetration. You're trying to put down too much metal in one pass and going too slow.

    oh...and stop doing circles. It's a waste of effort, and not necessary.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Brethren, Mi
    Posts
    11,277
    oh...and stop doing circles. It's a waste of effort, and not necessary
    Got to agree there, a little side to side wiggle if that is all thats needed and as he said go faster. That bead is way too big for the thickness of steel. I check my guy the other morning welding heavy with short arc and make sure he has it cranked up and keeping the arc at the leading edge of the puddle melting the bases of both pcs. Another think, every 210 I walked up to, not all that many but I found I like it a step up and 10 more on the speed from who ever ran it last. I am not as super pickey on a daily basis as some are here but I like it hot and a lot, I am a speed demon, I could close my eyes and get it right. I like to be in the upper ranges of the parameters and as Engloid said its too much work to try to run cold and work the gun around trying to keep an eye on fusion, I want the machine to do the work it can on its own which means heat, it leaves a nice flat bead well wetted in for the type of thing you are doing.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Browns Valley, CA
    Posts
    8,518
    Don't be afraid to bump up the settings a little. The door chart states tap 3 for 3/16 on C-25, but I think that's too cold. It's practice, ain't it?

    Try this on fillets: Pause for a "1 - 2" count on the side, come across the middle quickly, and pause for a "1 - 2" count on the other side, etc. That'll wet in the toes and keep the bead profile down.

    Hank
    Last edited by hankj; 04-16-2006 at 12:33 PM.
    ...from the Gadget Garage
    MM 210 w/3035, BWE
    HH 210 w/DP 3035
    TA185TSW
    Victor O/A "J" series, SuperRange
    Avatar courtesy of Bob Sigmon...

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Northern Nevada
    Posts
    740
    Dragging or pulling the weld should give you your deepest pen, but that circular motion makes it easy to lay back into the puddle and slop filler ontop of itself.
    suggest:
    45° work angle (point nozzle middle of joint) w/ 15°-30° travel angle [drag or push]. keep the arc around the leading edge of your puddle- drag or pull makes seeing this relationship between puddle and arc easy, but as stated before hard to keep track of where you are going- in this case, short practice fillet it wont matter.

    If you bead stacks up you can put alittle zag on the sides, but this is something I would practice later, unless you need the motion to keep your hand steady.

    Anyway you should be able to push or pull this weld-practice both.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    Central Kali
    Posts
    5,292
    A little side to side wiggle works good.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Los Angeles, California
    Posts
    86
    wiggle wiggle

    it all takes pratice.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Posts
    519
    Some pics of welds done on the real thing , 1st is kinda a diaster, slowed down a bit too much I'd say I think the 2nd one came out a bit better , both had setting of 50/4.1st pic had the side to side 1-2 count and 2nd was a straight pull.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Northern Nevada
    Posts
    740
    Quote Originally Posted by Grappletractor
    Some pics of welds done on the real thing , 1st is kinda a diaster, slowed down a bit too much I'd say I think the 2nd one came out a bit better , both had setting of 50/4.1st pic had the side to side 1-2 count and 2nd was a straight pull.

    Vertical down?

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Posts
    519
    Quote Originally Posted by Planet X
    Vertical down?
    Yes, vertical down .

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Brethren, Mi
    Posts
    11,277
    Crank that pup up to 60/5 and see what happens.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    Aumsville, Oregon
    Posts
    5,202
    Quote Originally Posted by Grappletractor
    Yes, vertical down .
    Vertical down, is a real poor choice for the material thickness and application. You should have ran vertical up, setting the unit somewhere around the 1/8" door chart settings as a starting point. Verical down is a very poor choice due to the fact that it produces very shallow if any penetration. More than likely you have zero fusion to the root, and probably at best a small amount along the legs of the fillet.

    Sorry to have to state the following, however, I feel you're diving into this project way before your weldings skills are ready for you too. Meaning you need quite a bit more practice on scrap.
    Last edited by Dan; 04-16-2006 at 06:49 PM.
    MigMaster 250- Smooth arc with a good touch of softness to it. Good weld puddle wetout. Light spatter producer.
    Ironman 230 - Soft arc with a touch of agressiveness to it. Very good weld puddle wet out. Light spatter producer.

    MM 210-Looking for a new home locally
    PM 180C



    HH 125 EZ - impressive little fluxcore only unit

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