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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Illinois
    Posts
    153

    Welding railroad rail anvil

    Hello,

    I have an home made anvil made from a short (18") peice of rail road rail. Dad's had it for years, he made it, and it works well for what it is. Well, now it's mine, and not being able to leave well enough alone, I want to modify it by welding a 4"w x 6"l x 1.25" thick peice of steel on top for a larger striking surface.

    Question: What rod would be best for this process? Is something special needed to weld railroad rail? Preheat?

    I figure I'll need to stick weld it as my mig is only a 175.

    Any info would be appreciated. Obviously I want this thing to be tough enough to beat on.

    Thanks,
    -D

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Tennessee
    Posts
    1,166
    Don't do it.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Browns Valley, CA
    Posts
    8,518
    You'll need one ****ed big stick machine! There are a couple of RR welders on here, and maybe one will give you some advice, but most of that work is electroslag or thermite welded, as I recall.

    Hank
    ...from the Gadget Garage
    MM 210 w/3035, BWE
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    Avatar courtesy of Bob Sigmon...

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    Central Kali
    Posts
    5,292

    Talking

    I would weld your piece of metal to something else. Then you will have two items to beat on.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Southern BC, Canada
    Posts
    1,380
    as a blacksmith, I can tell you this. You would be much better served to weld that piece of plate underneath the anvil for added mass than to try and lamainate it one as a new face.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Quitman, AR
    Posts
    557
    Quote Originally Posted by coalsmoke
    as a blacksmith, I can tell you this. You would be much better served to weld that piece of plate underneath the anvil for added mass than to try and lamainate it one as a new face.
    Been there, tried that, listen to Coalsmoke-don't do it.

    If you get it to stick, you will need to heat the whole thing up to cherry red and quench it quick to keep any hardness.

    I tried, and failed and tried again. Save up for a real one.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Illinois
    Posts
    153
    Point taken guys. I plan on getting a real anvil sometime anyway, just thought I might make this neat old thing a bit better.

    I'll keep using it like it is until I find a deal on a REAL anvil.

    -Derek

    Coalsmoke,

    Do you make your own smithing tongs or do you buy them? I'll need some once I get my forge built.

    -D

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Westchester county, N.Y.
    Posts
    2,177
    7018M...several pass's
    ______________________________________
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  9. #9
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Southern BC, Canada
    Posts
    1,380
    Quote Originally Posted by KST1
    Point taken guys. I plan on getting a real anvil sometime anyway, just thought I might make this neat old thing a bit better.

    I'll keep using it like it is until I find a deal on a REAL anvil.

    -Derek

    Coalsmoke,

    Do you make your own smithing tongs or do you buy them? I'll need some once I get my forge built.

    -D
    So far I have just been making them, but one day if I ever have money to burn I will buy some of the oddball ones i don't use everyday
    making them is good practice though, so i sort of hate to buy what i could make. Tongs are sort of my nemisis (sp?), every smith has something that always gives him/her some trouble, and tongs for me it is. Other things like welded chain, leaves, or what have you i find easier than some others, but tongs get me I think i might go out and make another pair just to show them who's boss

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    139
    Derek,
    Check out www.sofablacksmiths.org
    It is the Southern Ohio Forge and Anvil. I have never been, but in the fall they have a huge blacksmith conference called Quad State 2006. I have friends that go and it is supposed to be the largest tail-gate sales of any of the blacksmithing conferences. The word is..if you can't find it there...you don't need it. TW

    Quote Originally Posted by KST1
    Point taken guys. I plan on getting a real anvil sometime anyway, just thought I might make this neat old thing a bit better.

    I'll keep using it like it is until I find a deal on a REAL anvil.

    -Derek

    Coalsmoke,

    Do you make your own smithing tongs or do you buy them? I'll need some once I get my forge built.

    -D

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Southern BC, Canada
    Posts
    1,380
    ABANA 2006 see you smiths in Seattle

  12. #12
    miestro_jerry Guest
    I have a rail type anvils, it's great for many of my blaxksmithing projects. DON"T modify it. I like the Appalachian Blacksmiths Association <http://www.appaltree.net/aba/> we have several Hammer Inns a year and you can talk to members about what they have in the way of anvils.

    Myself I have a Czech Republic double horned anvil made in 1996, it works great, I paid $600 USD for it. It's a wonderful Anvil!

    You can used and repaired ones for a lot less, it depends on what your going to do with an anvil, to figure out what you need in the way of an anvil.

    Jerry

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    North Alabama
    Posts
    212
    I've welded up plates to rail road rail about three times. Most were 145 rail (i.e. 145 lbs per 3 feet) about 18-20" long. I welded 1" plate to the top to make the striking surface. As far as I know none were used for true blacksmithing work, just general pounding.

    The first couple were done with my Lincoln AC-225 with 1/8" or 3/16" rods, probably 6013 or 7018. Mostly just needed an excuse to weld something and these looked interesting.

    My own anvil is made out of 2" plate steel, weighs 146 lbs ( vs. 142 estimated prior to cutting and welding). Also not used for blacksmithing use, just general pounding out stuff. Has a real nice loud ring and hammer blows bounce real good, almost too good.

    My .02.

    Al

  14. #14
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Albany,ny
    Posts
    41
    We use scrap rail in making of gates for right of ways, bumper posts, and barriers. All of it is welded with 7018. I preheat the area if below 50 degrees. We have high carbon rod for repairing the rail but it is to expensive to use on non critical applications.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Illinois
    Posts
    153
    Wow, I've been away for awhile and figured this post was dead. Thanks for all the information. I've decided to leave well enough alone for now, as I have plenty of other projects, but you never know when I'll see that rail out of the corner of my eye and.....

    I'm kinda playing with the idea of getting into some blacksmithing as I love working with metal and have blacksmithing in my blood from a Great Grandfather and Great Uncle, both professional blacksmiths now deceased. It's not something I'm going to jump right into, but might start aquiring tools and learning some basics.

    For now the anvil is just for general beating.

    I'm going to try to get to a local(ish) ABANA event this year.

    Thanks again,

    -D

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