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Thread: garage plans

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    minnesota
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    92

    garage plans

    my garage im planning on building is gonna be stick built , my questions is what should i use on the walls inside to make it fireproof from sparks from welder, grinder , etc,. any ways you know what i mean.
    HH140

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    KENT OHIO
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    i would use drywall 5/8 thick or build foundation up to 18" above floor grade and then build and use thinner drywall. or you could just sheet metal bottom few feet of area to be used for welding
    MILLER 300 DEISEL
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    MILLER REGENCY 250 SPOOLMATIC GUN
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  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Syracuse N.Y.
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    I put up a polebarn last year and I finished the inside with the same sheetmetal as the outside and love it.It comes in what ever color you want and as long as you need it so it's just stand it up and run a few screws and your done and it's very durable and easy to clean. HTH Bill

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Browns Valley, CA
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    8,518
    Quote Originally Posted by hounddog
    my garage im planning on building is gonna be stick built , my questions is what should i use on the walls inside to make it fireproof from sparks from welder, grinder , etc,. any ways you know what i mean.
    If you are going to depend on the building's structural material to make it "fireproof" (there is no such ting) then I'd suggest poured-in-place tilt-up concrete walls ans a trussed steel roof.

    For the real world of stick buildings, I'd use 2 x 6 framing. If you're really **** on the fire thing, then use cement board on the walls for the first 4' of elevation, but I'd settle foe 5/8" drywall any day!

    As for fire safety after you occupy your new space, it's pretty much up to you. If you have safe work habits, proper first-aid firefighting equipment which you know how to use, and common sense, I'd guess you'll do fine!

    If not, maybe you need to hire a safety consultant!

    Hank
    ...from the Gadget Garage
    MM 210 w/3035, BWE
    HH 210 w/DP 3035
    TA185TSW
    Victor O/A "J" series, SuperRange
    Avatar courtesy of Bob Sigmon...

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Posts
    535
    register at www.garagejournal.com and ask. Im on the same username and the guys on there can definetly help you out on this one. Afterall, the site kidn of focuses around this sort of thing


    Jim
    Speedglas 9100x

  6. #6
    miestro_jerry Guest
    They make fire resistant wall board, it's heavy and expensive, but I have used it before.

    For an alternative to all of the suggestions, I have used the spray fire retardant that people on Christmas trees to keep spark problems to a minimum, mostly around my forge.

    Jerry

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Central Texas
    Posts
    320
    Gypsum board is the key componenet in fire rated construction. As an example, two layers of type "x" fire rated gyp on 3 5/8" metal studs provides a 1 Hr fire rating.

    Unless you will be directing flames directly on the walls it should be fine for a shop application; however, there are more durable products. Epoxy painted CMU walls would be my choice if I didn't have a budget, otherwise, gyp board on 2x6 framing or 4" metal studs.

    If you intend to hang junk on the walls, sheets of 22-24 ga sheet metal screwed to the studs behind the gyp board works very well. You can put the sheet metal up in locations where you plan to hang cabinets, shelves, ect.
    Pro Mig 175
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  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Knoxville, TN
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    313
    I do blacksmithing in addition to my welding, around my forge I used galvanized tin roofing from Home Depot. It is rigid and reflects the heat from the forge.

    They also have mobile home skirting in a pressed brick pattern which I used to build the smoke hood for over it.
    Jeff Phillips
    Silver Moon Forge

    HH 180
    Hammers and Anvil
    Coal forge.
    Other "stuff"

    "Those who don't weld so good, become expert Grinders"
    "Measure to build, Hammer to fit, Paint to hide."

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