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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Posts
    21

    Help with lettering

    I'm a new member and not much of a welder, but learning a lot from this forum and practice. I recently purchased a Hobart 140 wire feed. I'm in the process of fabricating some dry hole markers for some shallow wells that we are plugging. The markers are constructed of 51/2' of 41/2" well casing. The problem is welding the letters and numbers on the casing (lease name, well name, etc.). I am laying out the letters/numbers with soapstone (1"x 1"). Once I start the arc process I loose the outline of the soapstone and end with something that looks like a 1st grader. I have my Harbor Freight hood screwed down to 9-10. Any help would be appreciated.

    Thanks

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Here
    Posts
    282
    I've seen some pretty darn nice lettering done with a stick welder before, but I can't produce anything as nice as what you are ascribing to.

    BTW, love the name, are you in Texas?

    Reminds me of the sign in the break room" Please don't tell my mother I work in the oilfield,...she still thinks I play the piano in the $%&*#house."
    Hobart Handler 140
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    8 inch HF Mini chop saw
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    6" Vise



    Your not managing or wasting your "time"'; you manage or waste your "life"

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Posts
    53
    Try center punching an outline.
    jokers81

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Brethren, Mi
    Posts
    11,271
    Try pushing the puddle instead of pulling it.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Browns Valley, CA
    Posts
    8,518
    I'd take a die grinder burr and run out the letters on the casing first, then buzz the weld metal on. The shiny steel should show up in front of the arc.

    Lettering is a *****. I made my DIL a Christmas present that had her name lettered on a hunk of .250 x 2" flat bar. It would embarrass me to tell you how many times I ground it off! Then, I got the burr idea....worked wonders!

    Hank
    ...from the Gadget Garage
    MM 210 w/3035, BWE
    HH 210 w/DP 3035
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    Avatar courtesy of Bob Sigmon...

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    87
    Quote Originally Posted by Sberry27
    Try pushing the puddle instead of pulling it.
    Sound advice.We do the letter thing where I work and found it easier to push instead of pull.Make your soapstone mark heavy and since this is not a structural weld try turning down youre settings on the machine.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Posts
    21

    Help with lettering

    Thanks for all of your help and avise. I'm still having trouble seeing my scribs for lettering. Tried the die grinder/burr, looked nice but could not see any direction. Using flux and will try the C02 route. One guy must been from the oilields and ask if I was from TX, no I'm an Okie. " Mommas Don't
    Let Your Babies Grow Up to Be Ruffnecks". A little twist from a Willie Nelson song. Thanks again!

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Posts
    102
    weld outside under real sunlight..you should not lose your soapstone marks

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Nahville TN
    Posts
    260
    we do alot of street plates,writing the co. name and info is a good chance to let helpers practice stick.I like the grinding a guide line method(works good for hardfacing too) but I also will do little"blobs" at the starts and stops so you dont over shoot and sort a have a target to aim for.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Davenport, Iowa
    Posts
    824
    How about a quick shot of black paint to reduce the glare from the steel? Then the soapstone marks will show better. Or how about using a felt-tip marker? I would think the rod would burn thru either of these ideas and since its not struct. who cares if its got holes? Or maybe some Silver Streak pencil? I dunno..........

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Southern BC, Canada
    Posts
    1,380
    i use the silver streak pencil for all welding and torch cutting markings, but everything else gets normal soapstone because it is cheap. the silver streak works great in my opinion.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Lafayette, La
    Posts
    560
    oilfield

    You might try a lighter lens shade. You shouldn't be having that much problem seeing the lines. As stated above, it should be plainly visible in direct sunlight. I realize that's not always possible with installed equipment though.

    I've heard some of them older folk can't see as well as they use to and they have to use a lighter lens. That's what I've heard anyway.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Posts
    25
    I do lots of lettering with 6013 because it starts easy and looks pretty, Keep the arc just a tad longer than usual and that'll help you see. Renew the soapstone after each letter. Once you do it enough you won't even need the soapstone, but only for layout. When I do it the only time I look at the soapstone is when my hood is up.


    Later,
    Ed

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Vincennes , In.
    Posts
    15
    Try using a Bic Wite -Out pen to scribe your letters . It can take the heat without a lot of burn off. Its some kind of quick dry paint I think. Works for me !

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Davenport, Iowa
    Posts
    824
    Quote Originally Posted by TJJ
    oilfield


    I've heard some of them older folk can't see as well as they use to and they have to use a lighter lens. That's what I've heard anyway.
    Just you wait, ya durn whippersnapper--

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