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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    1,052

    brake Discs... adding material?

    Howdy Howdy! I was curious how plausable it would be to add weld material to disc brake discs to a Dana 44 set of discs for an older Scout II. Is this something doable? How safe might it be? Warping issues? Would I be able to find a shop to grind em smooth once they had been built up enough? Thanks for the helpfull ideas folks!! Brian Lee Sparkeee27

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    AB Canada
    Posts
    251
    Quote Originally Posted by Sparkeee24
    Howdy Howdy! I was curious how plausable it would be to add weld material to disc brake discs to a Dana 44 set of discs for an older Scout II. Is this something doable? How safe might it be? Warping issues? Would I be able to find a shop to grind em smooth once they had been built up enough? Thanks for the helpfull ideas folks!! Brian Lee Sparkeee27

    Brian, the rotors are undersize?, too thin?

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    Central Florida
    Posts
    1,246
    Brian,

    Really bad idea as they are cast iron. Why would you want to spend an hour welding to build up the rotor surface and then pay someone to true them when you can buy a new set set so cheap?

    Regards,
    Bill C
    "The more I learn about welding the more I find there is to learn..."

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Los Angeles
    Posts
    367
    I work for a brake company and I've got the rotors you're looking for I think....'74 and up Scout II. I've got the economy (chinese) rotors for $25 each, and I've got Premium US made rotors for $60 each. Thats my cost, let me know if you need a set. Welding them up is a bad idea......rotors have enough problems when they are cast in one piece, I can't imagine the events that would take place if one were welded up and remachined.

  5. #5
    tigman Guest
    Imagine the cost of rods to do this job if it were doable, you would go broke.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Lafayette, La
    Posts
    560
    Besides being a bad, bad idea, it wouldn't be cost effective. More importantly, the friction coeficent would not be the same as the original disk. Then you have the issue of heat checking and cracking of the base metal. This is afterall a very key safety item on the vehicle....not something cosmetic. Then too, the liability issue if there was a bad accident and it's found that you have modified disc rotors.

    I'd jump on those imported rotors. Too cheap to worry about repairing. My first new vehicle out of school was a "75 Scout II. I kept it 16 years and really loved it. A new rotor back in the '80's cost me $90.00 so at less cost today it's a real bargain. Do the right thing and you and everyone around you will be safer for it.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    1,052

    ok ok :) just a thought

    Howdy Howdy! Ok folks, it was just a thought. I thought they were cast steel. Yes, my rotors are too thin. 1978 Scout II. Prices I have been quoted are 140$ a piece, so "cheep" was not in my vocabulary for these things. I have 3 Scouts, all in various states of re-repair dis repair, and no pair. I was just a thought. I would Love to have some at a good deal like that I will keep your name on file for a few weeks, as I am currently in between companies. It's like a feast or famen thing for me, cause I keep my bills so low, but then when some slow time comes around, I'm used to having all this play money. At least I don't get in the hole fast between big jobs or companies. Brian Lee Sparkeee27 Thanks folks

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Brethren, Mi
    Posts
    11,282
    Like the man said new chinese, done deal, I never turn rotors. I wouldnt make it without a good parts store.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    marin co. ca.
    Posts
    2,075

    my 2 centz

    when my rotors have DEEP groves,i don't take chances

    i mix up some drywall mud and float em smooth

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Brethren, Mi
    Posts
    11,282
    JB weld works well too.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    okc ok
    Posts
    71
    i've had backing plates and rivets groove rotors quite a few times(i procrastinate a bit) just slap new pads on and they smooth the surface right up with ridges to match the grooves i dont turn rotors either

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Kent Bridge Ontario
    Posts
    655
    I seem to have replaced a pile of rotors lately. Seems they warp much easier now then they use to. In the past the only time I'd replace them was if the pads wore down to far. Now guys are having me do brakes because the rotors are warped but the pads aren't totally shot yet. Did rear brakes on an 2004 Impala The rotors didn't have the cooling fins in them and I'm guessing thats why they failed early. Front brakes were still ok.
    Doug Arthurs
    Kent Bridge Ontario

  13. #13
    enlpck is offline teacher student weldicatr
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    nj
    Posts
    2,245
    Quote Originally Posted by IRON TO ART
    I seem to have replaced a pile of rotors lately. Seems they warp much easier now then they use to. In the past the only time I'd replace them was if the pads wore down to far. Now guys are having me do brakes because the rotors are warped but the pads aren't totally shot yet. Did rear brakes on an 2004 Impala The rotors didn't have the cooling fins in them and I'm guessing thats why they failed early. Front brakes were still ok.
    Might it have anything to do with the type of metalic pads used with antilock brakes? I seem to wear the rotors out before the pads.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Location
    Houston, Texas
    Posts
    3,687
    Back when Western Auto was still in business, you could catch most rotors on sale for $15 or so. In Houston it is harder and harder to find a parts house that turns rotors. I have a machine shop thats been around for 40 years or so thatI have used for the past 35 years, that only charges $9 to turn one.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Suffolk Virginia
    Posts
    1,734
    My approach - ASAP after the little wear feelers on the OEM pads start squealing, replace the disc pads with the premium stuff from Bendix or Raybestos, about $30 a set for my F150. ASAP after the replacement pads start squealing, buy anothe rset of premium pads and a set of rotors. If it looks like one or both calipers are leaking or binding, add a set of rebuilt calipers. Brake parts today are too light and replacement to cheap to screw around with yours and everyone else's safety. At least doing it myself, I can probably do all the above for the price of a couple of the loss-leader come-on prices from the garages that always go up once your vehicle is on the lift.
    Blacksmith
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