Is this MIG big enough?

[rufus]

Here's my MIG. I know it's not much but it was my Dad's. I'm new to welding and need to weld frame rails and torque boxes on my 68 Mustang. The steel is probably less than 1/8" but I can't seem to get any penetration. I'm using .023 wire (AWS A5.18 ER70S-6) with shielding gas and all I can seem to do is tack the heavy sheets together. I am having to weld upside down so gravity is not helping the puddle to form and flow.
Am I expecting too much from this welder or is it me?

[Sandy]

Sorry rufus. That guy shouldn't be doing what you are asking it to do. I'll bet that's a sweet machine for body sheet tho. Looked like it's is 65 maybe 70 amps max??

You really should add a right sized machine to your war chest.

[moody2.0]

yea looks like you need an upgrade

look for something like a millermatic 175, hobart handler 140 or 180

the mm175 and hh180 run on 220V so be sure you have that outlet or have one installed

my theory is to look for a welder and when you see the one you want get the next higher power one because as soon as you bring that welder home and people hear you can weld, chances are you will have a person brind something the small welder cant do but the next one could have done

when i was looking for a welder i was looking to get a lincoln 135 and ended up upgrading to the mm175 and installed a sub panel and 220v 50A outlet

[hankj]

rufus,

Bad news. For structural frame work on a vehicle, I'd want a 200A class machine. Guys do that with 175's, but I wouldn't!

Hank

[fastblast]

rufus,

Bad news. For structural frame work on a vehicle, I'd want a 200A class machine. Guys do that with 175's, but I wouldn't!

Hank

what would be the big deal about that? if you can lay a nice bead i can't see the need for a 200aA class welder to weld what is normally 1/8". car frames are generally very thin...now i dont think i would use the welder he showed above but a handler 140 would be suitable. i'm sorta new but not... one of those big welders would be nice to have but i can't see it being the only choice for a car frame..

[Dan]

what would be the big deal about that? if you can lay a nice bead i can't see the need for a 200aA class welder to weld what is normally 1/8". car frames are generally very thin...now i dont think i would use the welder he showed above but a handler 140 would be suitable. i'm sorta new but not... one of those big welders would be nice to have but i can't see it being the only choice for a car frame..

A structural weld on something like a car frame is going to be solid wire application form one of the smaller compact units. In such as case, on material as thin as 1/8", even a unit like the HH 140 is going to be to small to safely produce a high quality weld. A structural weld on 1/8" can be produced with any of the 175/180 amp unit though. If your looking at needing to produce structural quality welds on up to a 1/4", then I definitely agree that you need a 200+ amp unit.

[TEK]

what would be the big deal about that? if you can lay a nice bead i can't see the need for a 200aA class welder to weld what is normally 1/8". car frames are generally very thin...now i dont think i would use the welder he showed above but a handler 140 would be suitable. i'm sorta new but not... one of those big welders would be nice to have but i can't see it being the only choice for a car frame..

I mostly agree with that if you are experianced enuff to make that choice. Rufus said he has minimal exp. I, and a bunch of other guys, could do it with 'bout anything.

[rjt70]

I used to own that same machine, it's made by Telwin of Italy. Great for sheet metal, but not much else.

[hankj]

what would be the big deal about that? if you can lay a nice bead i can't see the need for a 200aA class welder...... ..

Therin lies the delimma! From Rufus' post, it is obvious that he lacks experience. I've seen many "nice beads" that looked beautifull, and could be knocked off the surface of the weldment with a chipping hammer! A 140-class machine in the right hands is capable of quite a bit, I agree. In this case, I was responding to Rufus' question, and I'd still answer it the same way!

Hank

[fyoung]

In my opinion you need a Millermatic 350..I'm sorry I mean 210..*LOL* from everything I've read in all the forums a 210 is the only way to go..I don't know much about MIG but I've read a ton of stuff and can't find anything negative about a 210...If I could sell my 250x I'd buy a 210 in a new York minute...Never ran one but wouldn't have to because all the good welders can't be wrong.
Just my 2¢
Regards!

[rufus]

Thanks for the help guys. I'm thinking of biting the bullet and getting the HH175 refurb. I've done a little checking and it looks like it will be a good fit.
Hank I take your points well, I can assure you I'll have all welds checked by competent people. I guess I knew the Telwin was too small I just wanted others to validate my opinion.
At least a lot of practice with a capable machine can give good results.

The frames I'm speaking of are actually formed light sheetmetal. A unibody car.

Practice I will.

[fyoung]

I knew a man by the Name of Rufus..you're the second one I've run across with that name..he was a good friend of the family.
I've heard good things about the MM175 also.
Regards!

[Thomas Harris]

why not get a good stick machine since you now have a wire feeder that'll do guage sheet?

[rufus]

Ignorance maybe? I thought MIG was more controllable with a wider application range.
I guess I need to get face to face with a good welder, play 20 questions and use a stick machine, I never have.

[hankj]

rufus,

I didn't see where you mentioned your welding experience, but guessing that it's minimal, I'd recommend that you do some reading first. I like "Welding Essentials" by Marlow and Galvery, but other guys like other things...it's a matter of opinion.

There's so much more to welding than the sparky part that striking the arc is almost anti-climactic. Joint preparation, correct wire or filler, how to set the machines, etc. is often more important than the arc itself.

Of course, you need to master the arc part! I learned on oxy/acetylene, and I'm **** glad for it. If you have that opportunity, take advantage of it. It's the best way, IMHO, to learn what the puddle is, and how it can be manipulated.

Hank