Sundown, purge dam complete. Look inside!

[ChainbreakR]

So after that the other day of us both laying down some pretty miserable beads, I built you this stainless purge dam for you. Now you can run your 1/16" stainless at ~60 amps! ...thought I'd share it with the rest of the folk. The end piece with the bends is just so you can fixure it in different ways if necessary. It's time to find a Y valve and start layin' it down. If you don't catch me tomorrow, I won't be around till friday...pick it up whenever, though.

[Skooter]

Nice Man!
Some stellar beads there.
What amperage did you do those at? Thats 1/16" SS right?

Andrew

[Sundown]

So after that the other day of us both laying down some pretty miserable beads, I built you this stainless purge dam for you. Now you can run your 1/16" stainless at ~60 amps! ...thought I'd share it with the rest of the folk. The end piece with the bends is just so you can fixure it in different ways if necessary. It's time to find a Y valve and start layin' it down. If you don't catch me tomorrow, I won't be around till friday...pick it up whenever, though.

Thanks for the purge chamber I need all the help I can get, but I still want to be able to do it at 40-45 amps if I get my new glasses so I can see again. Right now I am thinking that instead of a y-valve, I might get a dual regulater. See you on Friday.....

[Sundown]

Nice Man!
Some stellar beads there.
What amperage did you do those at? Thats 1/16" SS right?

Andrew

Skooter,

ChainbreakerR is most likely tied up with classes so if he dosn't respond I will let you know when I see him on Friday, I would almost bet they were done at about 40 amps or so on and old Airco transformer beast, at least that would be my best guess.

[joebass]

Dual flowmeter is the best way to go. I use a Victor.

[ChainbreakR]

thanx for the words, Scooter!...I actually welded this out at school...and today I freed up for a minute, so I could actually get back on here for a couple seconds...

Lincoln Prescision Tig 275 @ 33 amps
.045 308l filler(some portions are fusion welded)
1/16" stainless 304 material

George, have you found a Y valve online? The dual regulators really are the way to go, but I can't afford one right now...just a little extra work until I can get the dual. Do you also know where to just buy a single valve so you don't have to reach up to the bottle to shut off the purge? I probably shoulda posted this in the welding projects forum.

[Bigger Valves]

thanx for the words, Scooter!...I actually welded this out at school...and today I freed up for a minute, so I could actually get back on here for a couple seconds...

Lincoln Prescision Tig 275 @ 33 amps
.045 308l filler(some portions are fusion welded)
1/16" stainless 304 material

George, have you found a Y valve online? The dual regulators really are the way to go, but I can't afford one right now...just a little extra work until I can get the dual. Do you also know where to just buy a single valve so you don't have to reach up to the bottle to shut off the purge? I probably shoulda posted this in the welding projects forum.

Depends on your machine, but you can put the Y on the solenoid. Old syncrowave I use has the Y on the front of the machine under the lower cover right at the solenoid so it's easy to get to. Sucks having to use a single flow meter for this, but if you got to you got to. It's got a valve on both legs so you can turn of your purge whenever. I'll be playing with it the next two nights and try to get some pics of it along w/ the headers I'll be back purging once fitted.

[Brand X]

http://www.atlweldingsupply.com/OxyF...Y%20Valves.htm

George,
I might be able to find all most the parts in my junk bin.
Airgas has a good bin too. They also stock everything new to make a simple unit.
I might even have a extra quick disconnect in my stuff

[Sundown]

Scott: Thanks there's just junk in my junk bin

Tyler: I only found one duel flow on ebay and it was junk, I will keep looking. If what I wrote to Valves is correct, and if I read Scott right, you can put a quick dis-connect at the gas outlet after the solenoid then you can control what going on at the front of the welder.

Valves: Are you saying to connect the Y valve after the solenoid? Then I guess you set the rate to 10-15 CFM or whatever you need, open the side of the Y that the torch is connected wide open, then just crack the valve to the purge chamber enough to keep the chamber filled with a positive gas flow?

This is getting high-tech, huh I will check back later on this as I need to go to my daughters orthodontist and drop about $5500 to get her teeth stright, or I could to to tri-gas instead and get a MM350P and some other goodies, nah I better do the right thing.....

[Brand X]

George split it at the regulator with a y, one going to your machine and the other heading
to your purge chamber with a hose and valve. The disconnect would just be handy to have on
and to make sure the valve does not leak.

I will show you something close, but setup for other reasons.

[Sundown]

George split it at the regulator with a y, one going to your machine and the other heading
to your purge chamber with a hose and valve. The disconnect would just be handy to have on
and to make sure the valve does not leak.

I will show you something close, but setup for other reasons.

Thanks, I will be sure to look for it.

[Bigger Valves]

Valves: Are you saying to connect the Y valve after the solenoid? Then I guess you set the rate to 10-15 CFM or whatever you need, open the side of the Y that the torch is connected wide open, then just crack the valve to the purge chamber enough to keep the chamber filled with a positive gas flow?

You could.. but you wouldn't be able to purge the area before welding because the solenoid would keep the gas flow shut off when the pedal isn't on. Put the Y valve before the solenoid. This is nice on the Syncrowave because the solenoid is accessible and you can just turn around and turn the line on and off which is just like putting a Y at the tank, but in a more conveniet spot. Run the line from the tank to the valve and then from one leg of the Y to the solenoid. The other leg of your Y is your purge. Leave the line to the solenoid always open at the Y so the solenoid works the gas to the torch as normal. When you need purge just crack the line to your purge line and bingo. You don't have cfh control over each line individually so just purge for a minute or so depending on the size of your chamber, turn up your flow rate at the regulator just a hair, and then start welding. It works and simple to hook up with just a Y and a little extra hose.

[Sundown]

You could.. but you wouldn't be able to purge the area before welding because the solenoid would keep the gas flow shut off when the pedal isn't on. Put the Y valve before the solenoid. This is nice on the Syncrowave because the solenoid is accessible and you can just turn around and turn the line on and off which is just like putting a Y at the tank, but in a more conveniet spot. Run the line from the tank to the valve and then from one leg of the Y to the solenoid. The other leg of your Y is your purge. Leave the line to the solenoid always open at the Y so the solenoid works the gas to the torch as normal. When you need purge just crack the line to your purge line and bingo. You don't have cfh control over each line individually so just purge for a minute or so depending on the size of your chamber, turn up your flow rate at the regulator just a hair, and then start welding. It works and simple to hook up with just a Y and a little extra hose.

OK. that makes sence. thanks.

[Brand X]

OK. that makes sence. thanks.

If that makes sense how about this?
It just need the green hose longer and a 02 hose and fitting on the end of the valve.
They had the perfect hose at Airgas in their junk bin. I did have to borrow a part off
of my machine but I can run a hose for my spoolgun and not use the disconnect y setup.

If you tell me how long you want the hose from the reg to your bench, I will hook you up.
The disconnect is a nice feature too.

Your flow meter needs to stick out from the bottle some( for the Y to clear the bottle). It works on all of mine.

[ChainbreakR]

Alright, I just did some good homework for this thread. Here is a simple way to set up your Y valve.

Say I want to run 25cfh at my torch and 10 on my purge:

1) open purge side of splitter, with end of hose open and free flowing.
2) set the regulator to 35cfh...this will be 10 for purge and 25 for torch. Basically, at this point, you're setting your TOTAL flow.
3) slowly close your purge line at the splitter, until you see your flowmeter drop to 10cfh. Now, you have set your splitter to allow only 10cfh to your purge line.
4) Open the torch side of the splitter. A few good cranks will be fine, or open it wide open.

This will allow you to get 10cfh at the purge and 25 at the torch. It's pretty simple. Basically, you're using the flowmeter to set your total flow, then using the splitter to restrict flow to one side...and the other side will get the remainder of the total flow. It works, is cheap, and easy.

Also, here are the dual flows for sale...

http://www.tigdepot.com/products/p34-196AR-60.htm