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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Posts
    192

    I need uphill stick help!

    I know I should browse past posts, but I need some help and my patience is up. I am a trained MIG guy. That is where my heart lies. I can do that upside-down, downside-up and anywhere in between. Trouble is, my uphill stick work looks like GARBAGE. Here is a synopsis. DCEP,1/8' rods, 6011 root passes,about 100 amps. 7018 for fill, about 130 amps. And everything doesn't need filled. Drag uphill at about 10 degrees from vertical. (I was told by one of my MIG inst to never push stick.) Z type motion. However, the beads look a bit like a worm that ate a handful of marbles. My horizontal stuff looks great.(To me anyway) Thanks in advance.
    MM 251
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  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Posts
    12
    I think vertical takes the most practice to get good at it.

    keep a really tight arc, angle rod up slightly. when im doing fill passes with 1/8 im only running 110 amps. Also what could be your problem is inconsistant Z motion. Do more Z's per inch and that will make the bead look better


    lets see a picture

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Posts
    192
    Thanks DG. I will try that tomorrow. That's a different approach than I'm using.
    MM 251
    Hypertherm 380
    Hobart Stickmate LX

    Bobcat 225 NT
    Miller Maxstar 150 S

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Browns Valley, CA
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    8,518
    55,

    You gotta PUSH it! That's how you control the puddle. I use about a 15° angle, the stinger being BELOW the rod tip. Give that a try.

    Hank
    ...from the Gadget Garage
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  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Northeastern Oklahoma
    Posts
    1,436
    If I remeber right you need to Zip across the valley and pause at the toes. Definitely push the rod. Uphill will take some practice.

    Dennis
    Dennis


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  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Suffolk Virginia
    Posts
    1,733
    You need enough slag to form a shelf, 6011 might be a little light, I was taught uphill with 7018.

    You have to push it, about 10-15 degrees up to allow the arc force to carry the metal into the joint.

    My instructor made me pause and count to 3 before moving to the other side until it became natural to pause that long to wash it in.
    Blacksmith
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  7. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    NJ
    Posts
    118

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    British Columbia
    Posts
    179
    I think the 'don't push 7018' instruction you recieved was meant to apply to flat and horizontal welding. Dragging 1/8 inch uphill at 130 amps is not the way to go. Unless you have 3/8 inch or heavier plate to practice with I'd start out with 3/32" rod. It will be a lot easier to control and get the basics down. Wide weaves are easier to learn then single uphill stringers. For practice, scribe two vertical parallel lines about an inch apart with a grinder or center punch. Just like you would for horizontal, run a pass between the lines...90-100 amps and rod straight on horizontally, slight drag....hold your arc when you reach scribed mark to deposit extra metal...fill crater... at edge and then reverse back to starting point...now dragging slightly in the other direction. Continue up in this fashion except after the first couple passes...as the plate heats up...travel faster across the middle and angle your rod more uphill to a push position. Depending on plate thickness and amperage you may find yourself aiming 60 degreess uphill for the last couple inches of rod. Knock your slag off and let the plate cool a minute and then start again with your rod straight on. After practicing this for a while draw your lines closer together. If all you have is 1/8" rod then your heat should be down to 110-115 amps for uphill.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    michigan
    Posts
    62

    A weave

    look up thread on A weave .Rock had a diagrahm of it .made night and day diff. 4 me.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Posts
    20
    I accidentally posted my reply in the thread linked above! Go look there.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    spanaway,WA
    Posts
    69
    i had sucess trying to use an upside down T motion. or a U motion to try to push the puddle up.

    one key thing i try to rememer is that on T joints to push the rod deeper in the joint so you dont lose the arc lenght when going across.

    but ive only been welding for less than a year, so take my advice with a grain of salt...

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Posts
    192
    Thanks for all of your replies. I haven't made it back to my stick machine since this thread was started. but I have printed the replies. Thanks again all.
    MM 251
    Hypertherm 380
    Hobart Stickmate LX

    Bobcat 225 NT
    Miller Maxstar 150 S

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Pittsburgh,Pa
    Posts
    1

    I need uphill stick help

    first stay with your 7018 but cut your amps done to 90. Next keep your rod straight in but no more then 5 to 10 degrees up.Put your root pass in first. This very important. If having trouble with root, use a small Z.Take time to pause at each side wall to get good wash in. When coming across valley keep center of arc pool on your last toe, this will get hid of the worm look and last but not least slow down you go to fast.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Southern BC, Canada
    Posts
    1,380
    Quote Originally Posted by pappapj
    last but not least slow down you go to fast.
    YES! it is amazing how many people think that welding is a race and don't realize just how much time it takes to lay vert. up. Good advice.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Southwestern Illinois
    Posts
    451
    Quote Originally Posted by coalsmoke
    YES! it is amazing how many people think that welding is a race and don't realize just how much time it takes to lay vert. up. Good advice.

    Yep! That stuff dripping from the puddle is the SLAG, not the metal. Before my dad taught me how to do vertical up, I kept going too fast because I thought the weld metal was dripping from the bead... he showed me that it was only the slag. Oh! and Yes it makes a BIG difference whether you push or pull. At first I was pulling on the vert. up... UGLY UGLY UGLY. Push is definitely the way to go. Gots ta slow down on the uphill too. Slow down and push it, and you'll be amazed what your next bead will look like.

    My vertical welds aren't perfect by any means, but at least I don't feel like I have to hide them or grind them down anymore.
    Brian
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