buying the correct outlet..?

[MusPuppis]

Gonna run to Lowes in the morning and pick up the stuff I need to run a dedicated outlet in my garage. I tested the welder at low WFS on a seperate outlet and you all were right.. So, I'm running a dedicated outlet.

My question is.. What should I look for in an outlet? I noticed different types on their website. I should be looking for a 20 amp one correct? They seem to have 15 and 20 amps available, and the price difference is substantial so I want to make sure.

I refuse to ask someone that works there, as our local store is less than knowledgable and I dont trust them.. lol.

[James D. Clark]

Your welder is advertised to run from a 120 volt, 15 amp outlet. Just buy a better grade one. If you want to use a 20 amp outlet that's ok too.

[hankj]

If you're building a dedicated circuit anyway, I'd wire it with #12's, use a 20 amp breaker, and install a NEMA 5-20R.

Hank

[MigManiac]

I second Hanks motion!!!

[INTP]

hankj got it right. Just be aware that "contractor grade" receptacle is the low end as far as durability. It'll still be rated for 20A, but a commercial grade will hold up better to shop use.

[enlpck]

I'd also agree with the commercial grade and 20A circuit, but, if you can find the wire, go with #10. It is amazing what a difference it will make in the final service. Also, DO NOT use the push-ins on the outlet (commercial grade generally don't have them, but a few do) and if you can, get the type with the captive clamp plate for the connection, rather than the type where you wrap the wire around the screw. Much better connection. The push-in's should be illegal, IMHO... Oh, wait, they are in my jurisdiction

[hankj]

Backstabs are OK if they are used as intended. On a full 20A NEMA device, you won't find 'em. Backstabs are SUPPOSED to be used as a terminal point for the device only. The problem arises when uninformed DIY'ers or lazy guys who know better use the backstab as a thru-connection point instead of pigtailing.

Beacause I'm an old fuddy-duddy about it, I always wrap the screw, no matter the device rating. But I've also seen many of those wrapped incorrectly too! Right mind set, wrong technique! The wire should always be wrapped around the screw in a clokwise direction, so that when the screw is tightened, the wire is pulled under the screwhead instead of pushed out! The ole' "lefty-loosy, righty-tighty" thing.

Hank

[INTP]

A former coworker of mine had his house hit by lightning. The hit did some local damage where it struck the house, but apparently, the electricity found it's way through the wiring. All of the outlets that used the push-in connections had to be replaced because the contact area was blown out.

I'm not trying to throw fuel on the fire regarding the push in connections, just relating a story. Obviously, these got approved somehow. I just don't use them myself.

[hankj]

Don't doubt it. I'll bet that the incoming power feed was backstabbed, and then the loop to the downstream recep was backstabbed, too, and on and on..

Hank

[enlpck]

Several of the local jurisdictions prohibit the push-in connections. I don;t trust them- seen too many fail from corrosion and'or oveheating. Pull too much current, they get hot and lose tension, which makes them get hotter. I've replaced outlets where the vack was completely melted.

The main reasion I prefer the clamp-type to screw head is that they work with any wire, any gauge that fits. For solid wire, the screw head is dandy and the most reliable, but for someone that doesn't wore every day, or if using stranded, the clamp is better. For stranded, the screw is just about useless if you don't have experience (I'v had to fix more than my share of arc-outs from wayward strands. You know when I'v been there if the stranded wire has a flemish eye under the screw head)

[Sandy]

Beacause I'm an old fuddy-duddy about it, I always wrap the screw, no matter the device rating. But I've also seen many of those wrapped incorrectly too! Right mind set, wrong technique! The wire should always be wrapped around the screw in a clokwise direction, so that when the screw is tightened, the wire is pulled under the screwhead instead of pushed out! The ole' "lefty-loosy, righty-tighty" thing.

I agree word for word. In fact I get a little **** about it sometimes. I don't even like having the hole for the push-in connections. Irritates me just having it there. I don't put all that money into wiring and effort into running it just to poke the wire into a hole with .00002 cents worth of tiny sharp edged one sided connector in it.

Friends call you up to help them fix their new installation. Take the switch/plug out, it works, shove it back in the box, it don't, pull it out, it works again. Wonder what the problem is???

And I'm not even an old fuddy duddy.

[Zrexxer]

Yeah this is what happened to me when a backstabbed connection to a switch failed and started arcing and creating resistance in the circuit. It was in a bathroom and had shut down half the upstairs - didn't know this was on the same circuit and I like to never found it. I'm lucky it hadn't set the whole house on fire.

[Sandy]

Yeah this is what happened to me when a backstabbed connection to a switch failed and started arcing and creating resistance in the circuit. It was in a bathroom and had shut down half the upstairs - didn't know this was on the same circuit and I like to never found it. I'm lucky it hadn't set the whole house on fire.

I'm sure someone has numbers that say those incidents are rare compared the volumes of plugs and switches installed on a yearly basis, bla bla bla. But this is one of those cases where you know that this means of connection is driven by the builders and suppliers and not the code writers.

[taz]

THAT is one scary picture.

[hankj]

The biggest failure rate is on jobs that were DIY'ed by folks who just don't have the experience. And, the biggest failure cause is using the backstab connections for through-connecting to downstream outlets.

enlpck,

Captive connectors are great, but they don't put 'em on the 69¢ bulk-sold junk outlets. When I encounter stranded conductors, I either tin the wire end with solder, or connect a short pigtail with a wire nut.

Hank