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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    277

    pneumatic HVLP spray guns

    I'am wanting to buy a spray gun and I found 2 in my budget. I know their not professional guns but I think they will work for me. One is a Ingersoll- Rand 270G. It has 10Lbs. at the cap and a 1.5 mm size tip and needle and is recommended at 43psi at the regulator on the gun for $90.00. The other is a Sharpe Finnx 300. It too has a 10Lbs cap and 1.4 mm tip and needle and is recommended at 29psi at the regulator which is not included but thats no big deal for $90.00. The local store that has the Sharpe told me they can get any tips, needles and parts I need. I don't know anything about air guns but fiqure it's time for me to learn. Some things I paint I would like a decent paint job on. Thanks for the help.
    Steve W


    Hobart Ironman 230
    Hobart Handler 210 MVP
    Hypertherm Powermax 380
    Miller Thunderbolt AC/DC
    Victor O/A torch setup
    Gentec O/A torch setup

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Posts
    267
    You want to ask this on the Autobodystore forum. They are really knowledgeable over there. They will ask you what you want to do with it, ans then tell you the better choice, and probably offer some alternatives. I have heard good things about the Sharpe there, not much of anything about the IR.

    http://www.autobodystore.com/cgi-bin/config.pl?index

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    NW
    Posts
    133
    Autobodystore.com was maybe the best source online for info on painting and autobody repair. Lenny, who runs the show there, is very knowledgable. He works at autobody repair in his successful New Jersey shop, and does the website as a sort of sideline. You can buy whatever you need from him at decent prices, and he won't BS you.
    (I have no affiliation whatever, though I have bought a few things there including my color and clear guns)

    The first specification to look at when considering a paintgun for purchase id the air consumption expressed in cubic feet per minute (CFM). You need to know the volume output, also listed as CFM's, of the compressor you intend to use and match the gun to the available air volume.

    Just because a compressor has a big tank or high HP motor is no indication of it's volumetric output and some with known names have pretty low output. The pressure is not the volume either. Many compressors have numbers decaled all over them but not many want you to know how low their otherwise fancy machine's volume output is. Not so many decals for that number.

    The Sharpe Finex 300(?) needs 11.3 CFM to work right, by the way. That's not bad as they go - about middlin'.
    Last edited by KenS; 01-26-2005 at 09:51 AM.
    MillerMatic 210
    Lincoln tombstone ac/dc
    Lincoln weldpac 100 (would sell)
    Harris o/a
    Victor mini o/a set
    Cutmaster 38 sold in favor of Parker 60, a 60 amp CHINESE cutter
    Bridgeport Series 1 2hp variable 9x42 Mill with DRO, power down and x axis
    SB 10L lathe
    K.O.Lee surface grinder
    K.O. Lee Tool&cutter grinding machine
    7x12 Enco bandsaw
    SB 7" shaper (would sell)
    Jet JMD-18 milldrill (would sell)

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Mars
    Posts
    65
    Go with the sharpe. for the $$ it's not a bad gun. I am an autobody painter i have all SATA guns (about $3000.00 worth.) Different tip sizes are for different materials. Ex 1.4,1.5,1.6 are most used for base/clear.. 1.8,2.0 are for high solids primers sealers. 0.5, 1.0 are for fine detail work. You might want to get some sort filter system.. a filter at the regulator and a wall mount filter would be ok for home. I have a Devillbiss dessicant system along with Devillbiss whirlwind regulator filter.. True HVLP uses only 8-10 psi @ the cap. Without a cap pressure guage you can't tell how much pressure is at the cap any way. The regulatpr guage is for inlet pressure. Also are you using a single or double stage compressor? single stage will be ok for smill jobs but for big ones you'll need a 2 stage because of the pressure drop to re-fill the air tank...

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Richardson, TX
    Posts
    43
    as stated above....CFM is the name of the game on paint guns. If your compressor is a little short on CFM, see if you can find a Sharpe Platinum (7.5 CFM if i remember correctly). FWIW, I like the www.autobody101.com and www.paintucation.com sites better than autobodystore. Seems len is constantly trying to sell something in every thread. And If you ask about a product that he doesnt carry, everyone bashes it. Just my 2 cents.

    Also check out spraygundepot.com and smartshopperinc.com for the best prices on the Finex guns

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    NW
    Posts
    133
    Bonfire,

    "Seems len is constantly trying to sell something in every thread. And If you ask about a product that he doesnt carry, everyone bashes it. Just my 2 cents"
    Heh, I never thought about it when I used to go there but now that you said it I guess it WAS the case. I ignored his hints or missed them altogether, and don't think that I ever asked anything in there.

    I'm not entirely sure but think that Sharpe discontinued the Platinum gun. If true it's too bad, as it was probably the lightest air eater in the market.
    MillerMatic 210
    Lincoln tombstone ac/dc
    Lincoln weldpac 100 (would sell)
    Harris o/a
    Victor mini o/a set
    Cutmaster 38 sold in favor of Parker 60, a 60 amp CHINESE cutter
    Bridgeport Series 1 2hp variable 9x42 Mill with DRO, power down and x axis
    SB 10L lathe
    K.O.Lee surface grinder
    K.O. Lee Tool&cutter grinding machine
    7x12 Enco bandsaw
    SB 7" shaper (would sell)
    Jet JMD-18 milldrill (would sell)

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Posts
    267
    There is considerably more to spray gun than cfm. That is why pros do not use Harbor Freight cheapies. My experience at the Autobody store has been nothing but positive. And my experience buying things from there has been good as in best all around deal. I have not seen www.autobody101.com before but look forward to checking them out. I think that www.paintucation.com will give you good advise and they are pretty well regarded, but I find there format to be too difficult to use. Accepting for the moment that the criticism of the Autobody store is true, you will still get good info there and that is the reason to go there and some negative is no reason to stay away.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Killingworth,Ct.
    Posts
    1,266

    Question?

    Quote Originally Posted by FireCat F7
    Go with the sharpe. for the $$ it's not a bad gun. I am an autobody painter i have all SATA guns (about $3000.00 worth.) Different tip sizes are for different materials. Ex 1.4,1.5,1.6 are most used for base/clear.. 1.8,2.0 are for high solids primers sealers. 0.5, 1.0 are for fine detail work. You might want to get some sort filter system.. a filter at the regulator and a wall mount filter would be ok for home. I have a Devillbiss dessicant system along with Devillbiss whirlwind regulator filter.. True HVLP uses only 8-10 psi @ the cap. Without a cap pressure guage you can't tell how much pressure is at the cap any way. The regulatpr guage is for inlet pressure. Also are you using a single or double stage compressor? single stage will be ok for smill jobs but for big ones you'll need a 2 stage because of the pressure drop to re-fill the air tank...
    Fire Cat, ive been painting as a hobby for years, a friend of mine tought me, look at his web site http://www.jaycdesigns.com/, Hes the guy that took me under his wing, welding is still the game, and home inspection next, and maybe back into radio part time again, but do you think the sata's are that good? always used debellis hvlp, before that the gun of choise was the binks #7?
    Your the pro, just wanted your opinion, Thanks, Jack

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    277
    Well guys I appreciate all the information. I went ahead and got the Sharpe Finex 300. Now I'll work on fixing up my air lines and filters. This is going to be a all new game for me to learn but, I think it will be worth it. I have a professional helping set me up with everything so that really helps alot. I think it's going to be fun to learn and It's something I've wanted to do for along time. Thanks for all the help.
    Steve W


    Hobart Ironman 230
    Hobart Handler 210 MVP
    Hypertherm Powermax 380
    Miller Thunderbolt AC/DC
    Victor O/A torch setup
    Gentec O/A torch setup

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Richardson, TX
    Posts
    43
    Quote Originally Posted by KenS
    I'm not entirely sure but think that Sharpe discontinued the Platinum gun. If true it's too bad, as it was probably the lightest air eater in the market.
    Yeah the platinum is discontinued in favor of the Finex guns the original poster just bought. They can still be had on the used market and are worth looking for if your air is limited. Currently the IWATA lph 400 is probably one of the lowest air consuming guns that produces excellent results. Only problem they're pretty spendy at ~$400.00

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    King NC
    Posts
    66
    Quote Originally Posted by bonfire
    Yeah the platinum is discontinued in favor of the Finex guns the original poster just bought. They can still be had on the used market and aryour air is limited. Currently the IWATA lph 400 is e worth looking for if probably one of the lowest air consuming guns that produces excellent results. Only problem they're pretty spendy at ~$400.00
    I don't why Sharpe disco'd the Platimun. The Titanium aka. T-1 is the replacement. I just got one haven't used it yet. The Finex line is made overseas. Not bad I have one for my primer gun and have had good results. I also have a Cobalt and it does very well. This was my first real gun. All these guns with the exception of the Platinum are air hogs requiring 13cfm between 30psi-50psi. The Platinum may still be available @ www.spraygundepot.com or www.everhartsales.com or www.toolparadise.com I think that if they are available tip sizes are limited.

    Steve
    MM 185, Henrob O/A, T/A 185TSW , '56 chevy truck (in progress)


  12. #12
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Mars
    Posts
    65
    Jack, In my opinion SATA is the cat's ***. I have had a chance to try out alot of guns.and the SATA is the best. Sharpe has the titanium series,DeVilbiss has the GTI series and Iwata has the 400 series. I presently have (4) NR-2000 @1.4 mm, (2) NR 95 @ 1.4mm, (2) KLC-B in 1.4,!.7 mm (1) Jet 90 old one, (2) mini jet/2 in 0.5,1.0 mm. Sharpe cobalt and a crap load of older siphon feed guns..

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Mars
    Posts
    65
    I did'nt like the titanium. the cobalt is an ok gun. It sits in the bottom of my cabinent. I have had my first NR-2000 for 3 years now with daily use and no problems.. Really it's like comparing a miller and a hobart...In my opinion none of the american gun companies come close..The Iwata sort of impressed me i might want to try it out for a acouple of days though...

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Posts
    39
    FireCat, what do you think of the way the SATA sprays CC? Have you compared it to the Iwata yet? Everyone that I know that has used both thinks the SATA has a lot of orange peel compared to the Iwata for CC. Have you tried any of the guns from CAT like the Jaguar SLP? They are a bunch of ex Binks guys and the guns look pretty good. I have been thinking about trying one.

    ~petev

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Posts
    175
    [QUOTE=storts] before that the gun of choise was the binks #7?


    I had to comment on the Binks #7. I always had (and have) Devilbiss JGAs they always made those #7s look like brush paint. Never could see why anyone would touch a Binks after using the JGA!!!

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