Transporting a vertical Air Compressor

[cowboy45]

I want to thank Hobart and everyone who participates on this forum. It is a wealth of knowledge and experience. After a lot of research here and on links provided here, I have decided to buy a little bigger compressor than I thought I needed and go with a 2 stage. However, price not withstanding, getting it home is posing a slightly bigger challange, as I don't have a lot of help available.

Here's my question: I have a found an almost new 2 stage IR 60 gallon air compressor (400 lbs) worth about three hour drive from home that I need to pick up this week. I figure my options are:
1. Rent a uhaul trailer and tie it down in the vertical orientation (would seem kinda top heavy at highway speed)
2. Lay the compressor down horizontal in the back of my pickup truck (is there any harm in laying it down?)
3. Unbolt the motor/pump package from the tank and set them in the pickup (this might makes the parts more manageble to wrestle around).

Any thoughts on this?

Thanks. Jim

[Zrexxer]

I'm not keen on the idea of hauling top-heavy items upright either, but if you had it bolted to a pallet and tied down securely it would be OK.

Personally, I'd lay it down. If you're worried about compressor oil migrating into the cylinders while it's horizontal, just drain the pump first. If you're buying it used you'll probably want to replace the oil anyway once you set it up. If you don't, let it stand vertical for a while before running it.

Just slide 'er in the truck on it's back with the pump toward the cab. Then when you're ready to unload it, it's easy to slide the lighter tank end out of the truck and let it angle down to the ground, then stand the whole thing up.

[enlpck]

If height isn't a problem and loading isn't a problem, and you have a stable trailer, upright is probably best. If you do lay it down, lay it on the SIDE, so the crank and the motor shaft stay horizintal. The bearings often don't like end load (think: every hard bump may put 2, 3, 4 times the weight of the parts onto the bearings), and it will reduce lost oil. The shaft oil seals arn't meant to be soaked, and may swell enough to be damaged if left with oil on them.

I would get the factory manual for the compressor and go through the 'first run' checkout and procedure after moving, as well.

[drizler]

Then you can strap it down in the bed of a pickup. Just make sure to strap it down as sure as **** some moron will drive you off the road and the thing could take your head off. It amazes me how many people drive by where I work with 12 V batteries way in the back of the station wagon, truck or hatchback. Keep the load as far forward and against the wall as possible where it can't take flight....................

[atucker]

I hauled what was probably the same compressor home on my 6 X 10 utility trailer. I used two nylon (or whatever they are) ratchet type straps, like you'd use on a motorcycle or ATV, to tie it down. It was still on its shipping pallet. I only went about 30 miles and it didn't move an inch. If I was going very far, I would have screwed, nailed or blocked the pallet. I bought mine at the "IR Store" and the rep there told me to NEVER lay them down while being transported.

Allen T.

[Sberry]

If I was going to lay it down I would do as Enl says, drain it, lay sideways and put synthetic oil back in.

[Brand X]

If I was going to lay it down I would do as Enl says, drain it, lay sideways and put synthetic oil back in.



I would take the pump off and motor off first,and then you will not have any problems. Very easy to do on those units.

[timw]

Drain the oil, lay it down in your PU. Block it so it won't move around. Make sure you put 30W NON Detergent oil back in, available at NAPA and other parts stores. Don't know if they carry synthetic NON D. but thet do carry regular.
Two stage is the only way to go, you get volume and pressure.

[cowboy45]

Want to thank everyone for their comments on this. Right now, I am probably leaning towards removing the motor and pump and loading up the truck separately. That will make a little more work turning wrenches, but save me a trip to the chiropractor trying to wrestle that baby around by myself. If anyone has any tricks to pull that stuff off, please pass them on. Are there any weird sizes or wrenches required for this effort?

Thanks again everyone. Jim

[enlpck]

Want to thank everyone for their comments on this. Right now, I am probably leaning towards removing the motor and pump and loading up the truck separately. That will make a little more work turning wrenches, but save me a trip to the chiropractor trying to wrestle that baby around by myself. If anyone has any tricks to pull that stuff off, please pass them on. Are there any weird sizes or wrenches required for this effort?

Thanks again everyone. Jim
Unually fairly easy, but it does depend on the exact pump, mount, and motor. For example, a type 30 has tight clearance on one bolt when mounted on the 120gal horizontal tank, but an open end gets it fine. The motor is likely to be tighter, as the mounting holes are usually inside the frame outline, and the frame comes out over them.

Many have actual adjusters (tensioner bolt or similar) for tensioning the belts, which may be at either end. Others are adjusted by barring the pump or motor to set tension then snugging the holding bolts, like many alternators.If there is an adjuster, examine it carefully. Lots of styles, and they all come apart differently.

The pump may not have a lift eye or a point for attaching one. The motor probably will if it is more than 20 or 30 pounds. DO NOT try to lift the pump or the motor by the pulley. Bad for bearings, bad for your foot. The balance point for the pump is likely in a bad spot. It will be awkward. Be careful. Also, bring blocking to set the pump on, and lag bolts if you can to lag it down for stability, as the pulley will probably have its low edge below the base of the pump. A hydraulic engine lift is a BIG Help at all phases. Use nylon straps if you can.

Make close note of the alignments to make realignment easier. Spraypaint is good for this. A quick squirt at each bolting foot BEFORE loosening anything and you have marks to work from. I use a different color for the pump and the motor. Also mark the plumbing carefully before dissasembly.

You will want several wrenches for the plumbing, as the flexline needs to be backed with a wrench where it goes to the union (What? No flex line? It's in COPPER, you say? Thats an old one. The flare fittings are probably so galled in they will be a real pain.) Consider replacing the safety valve and cleaning the tank before reassembly.

Also, be sure the drain is the lowest point when you place it. I usually raise the tank on 6X6's to make clearance for the drain line and do a little vibration damping, and shim carefully to get a vert tank straight, or a horiz tank slightly pitched towadr the drain. I usually plumb the drain outside. to a waste bucket. The oil that makes its way to the tank is **** on a septic system.

[cowboy45]

It Is Done.

I picked up the compressor today - it is used but you can't tell it from new. I pulled the motor, and compressor off, and loaded the each separately in the dodge and drove home. That pump is a heavy sucker, but took everyones suggestions and kept the shafts horizontal and kept any loading off the shafts and pulleys. Now all I have to do is make some room for it in the garage. I'll be a sandblasting fool by sunday!

Thanks again. Jim