What will a Lincoln AC/DC box not do?

[luke5579]

You know the one, 400 bucks at Lowes or however much.

What can I not do with a machine like that?

[BKD]

If you've still got the $400 to spend, I'd highly suggest you go with the Hobart Stickmate LX AC235/DC160 instead of the Lincoln...

With Hobart, you get 10 more amps on the AC side, and 35 more DC amps than the red one... and infinite amperage control (worth the price just in itself). More than worth the extra $10 or $20 more than you would pay for the red buzzbox.

Getchya one!

What can you not do? Well... you could do almost anything with it as the power supply... there isn't much you couldn't do(with some more $$$).

You could add a Miller 3045 (I think... going off memory on that model #...) wire feeder and have a fairly potent MIG setup...

You could add a High Frequency box and have a basic TIG setup.

As for Stick, you may have some trouble on thin sheetmetal, but you should still be able to handle some of it with 1/16 and 3/32 6013 electrodes... and maybe 7014's too (can you get 7014 in those sizes?) On the other end of the scale, you will be able to handle just about anything that comes your way... I'd say 99.44% of anything you'll have to weld with be within the capabilities of the Stickmate. All the way up to 5/32 dia electrodes.

Aluminum may give some problems... I haven't tried it yet, but my Dad has had mixed results welding aluminum with the SMAW process... some things turn out good... others not so good... MIG or TIG are much better processes for AL... but it is possible with Stick.

Again, I HIGHLY recommend the Hobart Stickmate LX AC/DC over the Lincoln unit... I absolutely LOVE mine... both are good machines, but IMHO the Hobart gives you much more buzz for the buck.

[luke5579]

Thanks for your reply. From reading around it seems like others agree with you as well...

I will look around my town for a place that sells them.

Thanks!

[Sberry]

For building those grills . esspecially outdoors it would work well.I would find a spot, park it in the garage, wire a circuit to it and put some leads on it long enough to reach my projects. TSC stores sell them.

[Sberry]

Luke, you are on the right track here with this stickmate. A small feeder isnt suited to that work, a 210 would be. You can run stainless sticks if you need to. Power requirements are fairly low with this machine,, and its cheap. It will run a lot of types of rods well. Even if I was in your shoes and had a feeder I would want one of these even though it wouldnt get used as much it would be good backup, could run alloy rods on it and is good for heavy structural if needed and can be used outdoors, the leads are portable. Get this and save up a little and get a 180 or 210 down the road. You could almost get this and a 180 with tha much money now,,, but I would hold out for a 210 in your case. For the grill work I would get a can of 1/8 6010 and a can of 3/32 7018. The 3/32 is nice for light work and is easy to operate. A can goes a LONG way.

[Skip]

I've said it before and I'll say it again, purchase a USED Lincoln Ideal Arc 250/300 AC/DC CC machine. Thats it, thats all, period.
No need for a high/freq unit unless you plan on welding alum or mag, touch start will do all you need it to. 220vac 60amp single phase power source is all you need and only for a couple hundred $.
If you should be so inclined you can buy a HF unit for it from Lincoln, and even though its a CC power source you can get a voltage sensing LN 25 wire feeder for it. Those LN25s are as tough as they come. Worked with them in a ship yard for a couple years using Shielded FCAW and they've been kicked, dropped, left out in the rain with the cover open and been left under a pile of shot blast for weeks. Clean'm up and off they go.
As I say go with a used Ideal Arc you can't go wrong.
Skip

[Sberry]

Skip, do you have a warehouse full of these readily available so that when a guy in any part of the country wants one he can find one for 2-300$? Its one thing to say thats a good deal but another thing to be able to find one when you want one, where you want one. That dont even take into account that the Idealarc, while it would be better for shipbuilding, weighs 350# vs 105 for a stickmate, takes twice the space in this guys 2 car garage, all so they can burn 20 or 50# of 1/8 electrodes a year. Most of them dont really need tig and when they get to a feeder they need something self contained and simple with fairly low power requirements, new is good, and the last thing Luke here needs is to scrounge the shipyards for some old worn out feeder that has been residing under a pile of shot blast. He could use a new 210, with instruction manual, gas bottle, regulator, all set.

[rjt70]

Yea, forget that Lincoln, unless of course there is one really close and it's a good deal. Get yourself that Stickmate, they are excellent machines, I have absolutely nothing bad to say about the Stickmate, (except that it doesn't come standard with a roll cage and airbag for when some idiot working for the shipper drops it from 6 feet!) it is a really smooth running machine, and you can move it yourself without a forklift (unless you are that idiot that works for the shipping company). Stickmate, Stickmate, Stickmate! Best bang for your bucks, and it will be new to boot!

[Skip]

Ok fellas, lets try this again.
First off I didn't say get a machine or for that matter a wire feeder from a shipyard. I did say you can buy them used, what I didn't say was from where.
Any buy and sell paper should have something along the lines of which I speak. Maybe because I live in a fairly heavily industrialised area may have something to with it, but I always see machines like this for cheap.
As far as taking up to much room 3ftsq off in a corner ain't a very big space. I have a car and a half garage and works out great.
Of course our weld shop and contractors use other machines like the Miller Gold Star series btw( very impressed with them).
All I'm saying is you get good quality from these older Lincolns and the price is right.
We use these machines for code work on pipe, and they do the job everytime.
Skip

[luke5579]

Ok you guys convinced me, stickmate it is. So where is the best place to get one? Better to get them online or local? I would assume you could get them cheaper online even with shipping...

luke

[luke5579]

You guys are talking about the ac/dc stickmate for roughly 500 dollars right?

[Bodfish]

Originally posted by luke5579
You guys are talking about the ac/dc stickmate for roughly 500 dollars right?

Not even. I got mine at HF for $389. Maybe cheaper online. Try OIC and BRwelders.........

BTW, You'll need some more leads. It comes with 25' of #4. I replaced mine with 50' of #2........The stinger and clamp are fine, though. Don't try using the running gear. Make a cart...

Hope this helps.

[mark48310]

i got mine for $350 off amazon.com with free shipping but with a bit of trouble (they forgot to send the clamp and stinger)...

northerntool.com has them for around that price too, i think they have free shipping and will match prices...

[Sberry]

Tractor Supply stores have them sitting on the shelf.

[luke5579]

Bodfish, why go with #2 leads?

Is there anything else I will need with this welder to get going?

Also I have been welding with a 20 year old Miller stick welder, it was a small little blue box with a hand crank on the top of it.

What differences if any will i see with this machine? I think I worded that wrong, I mean will I do anything any differently with this machine?

I would assume it would be the same.

by the way, the miller was borrowed thats why I have to get my own...

Also since I will be able to use DC now, what differences will I see with DC? Also is there a reason why I would want to use AC if DC supposedly welds so much better?

Luke

[luke5579]

Do you guys get tired of people like me asking these same questions over and over again?

Surely you do :)

I do really appreciate all of the feedback I have been getting.

[Sberry]

The only time I use AC is nickel for cast iron and for stainless sometimes. For you on steel run on DC+. It makes out of position weld a lot easier. When you make your leads longer you want to upsize, just like any wire when increasing length. I take the stock ones off,, or cut them off a foot from the machine add some connectors, then use the light ones for whip ends.

[luke5579]

Thanks sberry... I appreciate it.

I keep wanting to call you steve because my father in law's name is Steve Berry, sberry... Pl;us you kind of look like him in the picture.

[luke5579]

You guys talking about this one right? its 450 at amazon, guess i need to keep looking...

hobart at amazon (http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/B00004WHGH/qid=1091327813/sr=8-2/ref=sr_8_xs_ap_i2_xgl60/002-5570044-2482457?v=glance&s=home-garden&n=507846)

[Sberry]

Luke,, dont you have a Tractor Supply store near you? They carry Hobart products,, usually have those in stock, about 400

[Zrexxer]

Yeah, the Tractor Supply Company here has them for $369.99.

[Bodfish]

Originally posted by luke5579
Bodfish, why go with #2 leads?

To avoid Voltage drop when increasing length of the leads

Is there anything else I will need with this welder to get going?

Just rod. You can use the supplied leads. they are fine for close work. Make sure you have a 50 AMP 240V service.

What differences if any will i see with this machine? I think I worded that wrong, I mean will I do anything any differently with this machine?

The arc is smooth and you will like it. You never use AC unless you are doing something special. (Al, SS, cast iron, etc).

Other than that, just make a cart and have fun. It's a great machine for the $. (don't try and use the supplied handle, or running gear, it's junk).

Luke

[luke5579]

whats the supplied handle or running gear?

[Bodfish]

Originally posted by luke5579
whats the supplied handle or running gear?

2 cheap wheels and an axle. One piece of bent metal and 4 sheet metal screws.

[luke5579]

oooh ok. i gotcha...

loud and clear.