View Full Version : Drawing of next project (welding/cutting table)
deere_x475guy
12-06-2002, 07:30 PM
Just thought I would post these drawings I have started. Will is coming over on Sunday to give me a hand and some more great tips as we begin building this. Its a combination of several plans I have looked at. I haven't drawn out the box for under the cutting side yet. Anyone have an idea of how deep I should make this? Should I put sand in the bottom?
Looking forward to starting another project:)
Everyone have a great weekend I probably won't be on much before Sunday now.
Bob
deere_x475guy
12-06-2002, 07:31 PM
another view
Rocky D
12-06-2002, 11:52 PM
Originally posted by deere_x475guy
another view
Here's a cutting table I built. It is the same height as my weld table, so I can use the table to support something heavy, and cut into the box. I have nothing in the bottom of it, except a tray I can pull out and dump the slag as it builds up.
Rocky D
12-07-2002, 12:06 AM
I just looked again at your drawing...I have found that two inch spacing for the cutting table grid is too much, 1" works fine. You'll always be needing to cut small parts, and the 1" spacing gives your parts better support.
The box part has to be far enough away from the cutting surface so's it won't consume away from the hot stuff coming to rest on it. I made mine about 12", as I recall.
Notice the little door gives access to the tray inside.
Also notice the strap on the floor...that's a ground to my TIG machine, so I don't have cables all over the place.
deere_x475guy
12-07-2002, 07:31 AM
Originally posted by Rocky D
I just looked again at your drawing...I have found that two inch spacing for the cutting table grid is too much, 1" works fine. You'll always be needing to cut small parts, and the 1" spacing gives your parts better support.
The box part has to be far enough away from the cutting surface so's it won't consume away from the hot stuff coming to rest on it. I made mine about 12", as I recall.
Notice the little door gives access to the tray inside.
Also notice the strap on the floor...that's a ground to my TIG machine, so I don't have cables all over the place.
Rocky, thanks that's what I was looking for. The one inch spacing makes sense and I will do that. I had planed on making a clean out drawer also. The 12 inch height box I wasn't sure about but now I know it works for you and I will do that also. I decided this morning that I will make my torch tanks sit on the end the wheels are on. Do you have any idea how far above the bottom of the legs I should have the bottom of the wheels? I want to put handles on the opposite end and then just be able to lift from the end and have the wheels engage the ground. I would prefer not to have to lift to far.:D My ole back can't take to much of that hehe.
Thanks again
Bob
Bob, years ago I saw a neat cutting table, similar to your design. One addition was a diagonal of 12 gauge sheet to prevent the slag from burning the operator during the cutting process. The table was probably twice the size of yours; I have always thought that the leg protector was a good idea.
Hi Bob,
Its Bob.
I think you want the wheels to sit right on the ground with the table flat. That way they will "engage" as soon as you start to lift. The slack in the bearings/bushings should keep the table from "floating" on the wheels. Just in case weld distortion lifts it, you could always add a bead to the bottom of those legs.
Have you estimated the weight yet, looks heavy.
Bob
deere_x475guy
12-07-2002, 03:53 PM
Originally posted by cope
Bob, years ago I saw a neat cutting table, similar to your design. One addition was a diagonal of 12 gauge sheet to prevent the slag from burning the operator during the cutting process. The table was probably twice the size of yours; I have always thought that the leg protector was a good idea.
Cope, I plan on building a box to sit under the cutting grates. This should contain the flame and sparks (I hope)...:D
Thanks...Bob
deere_x475guy
12-07-2002, 03:55 PM
Originally posted by Bob
Hi Bob,
Its Bob.
I think you want the wheels to sit right on the ground with the table flat. That way they will "engage" as soon as you start to lift. The slack in the bearings/bushings should keep the table from "floating" on the wheels. Just in case weld distortion lifts it, you could always add a bead to the bottom of those legs.
Have you estimated the weight yet, looks heavy.
Bob
Bob, I think that makes sense. I will do it that way. If it doesn't work out well I can always cut and reweld (I need the practice anyway)...hehe..
Thanks,
Bob
PS. Will is coming over tomorrow to help me get started on this. We will make sure to take plenty of pics as it progresses to post.
26" high?:confused: Is it actually suppose to be 36" ? 36" is the height that I like.
deere_x475guy
12-07-2002, 04:38 PM
Originally posted by Dan
26" high?:confused: Is it actually suppose to be 36" ? 36" is the height that I like.
Dan I would like to sit while I am welding. Maybe I should make it higher and then make a stool of the right height to work from. What would you suggest for the height?
Bob:cool:
Rocky D
12-07-2002, 08:06 PM
Bob, So. Cal. Bob, has the idea for the wheels, however the slack, or slop in the bearings can be controlled more precisely if you first measure the slop across the diameter of the wheel, (low point to high point), and shim the table up that distance, slid your wheel assembly contact point up to the leg and tack there. (You'll need an axle all the way across, here). Welding top and bottom wil not move the assembly too much. The remove the shims after welding, and you'll find that your wheel has positive contact with the ground, as well as the table leg, and it won't take much to lift it.
Sounds like a great table!
Rocky D
12-07-2002, 08:17 PM
Originally posted by deere_x475guy
Dan I would like to sit while I am welding. Maybe I should make it higher and then make a stool of the right height to work from. What would you suggest for the height?
Bob:cool:
Bob, remember, you will be arc or MIG welding at this height, and the sparks will be landing on....well, I guess you know where:D
34" is a good height, 36" is a bit tall, but do-able, and 32" would be too short. You should be sitting in such a way that your legs are slanted, so the sparks will run off. The table and chair I have previously shown here is for heliarc welding, and for anything else I use the stool. I'm 6'2" and Ilike my work surface to match my height. So it is a personal thing, just how high the table should be. Also, think of your back, too. If you're four feet tall, 26" will work.:D :D
deere_x475guy
12-07-2002, 09:18 PM
Originally posted by Rocky D
Bob, remember, you will be acr or MIG welding at this height, and the sparks will be landing on....well, I guess you know where:D
34" is a good height, 36" is a bit tall, but do-able, and 32" would be too short. You should be sitting in such a way that your legs are slanted, so the sparks will run off. The table and chair I have previously shown here is for heliarc welding, and for anything else I use the stool. I'm 6'2" and Ilike my work surface to match my height. So it is a personal thing, just how high the table should be. Also, think of your back, too. If you're four feet tall, 26" will work.:D :D
Hmm..ya know. I have several woodworking tables that I have built and used for years. Guess I will go with the height I have those at. To late to go out and measure tonight.
Bob..:D
gnewby
12-07-2002, 09:42 PM
Bob, looks like you have some pretty good ideas going as far as your welding table. And you have gotten some good advise from both Dan and Rocky D. I have been kicking around makeing me a bigger welding table then what I presently have which is about 24" in diamater. I have an old metal desk I was thinking about setting inside the structure of this new table, as the desk is only about 24"tall and only about 48" long. Figured I could make a shelf to sit it on where it would sit right up under the top of the table. I was also thinking about on the back side of my table welding on a piece of 2" angle iron the length of the table to use as a v- plate or what ever you would want to call it, to use for lining up pieces of pipe or tubing in order to keep them straight while fitting them up. Looking for any input as whether this is a good idea or a dud?
Originally posted by Rocky D
Bob, remember, you will be acr or MIG welding at this height, and the sparks will be landing on....well, I guess you know where:D
34" is a good height, 36" is a bit tall, but do-able, and 32" would be too short. You should be sitting in such a way that your legs are slanted, so the sparks will run off. The table and chair I have previously shown here is for heliarc welding, and for anything else I use the stool. I'm 6'2" and Ilike my work surface to match my height. So it is a personal thing, just how high the table should be. Also, think of your back, too. If you're four feet tall, 26" will work.:D :D
36" works for me on TIG, because if I do sit down the chair I use is roughly 26" high to the seat. Bob this would put me sitting on top of your table:) . No, Im not 7 ft :D , only 5' 10".
Bob, you are more daring then I am, you couldn t get me to sit down and MIG weld at a table.
Actually, for most of the MIG welding that I do the projects are so large that a table is useless. Most of my projects are built on some metal support stands that are similar to a saw horse, but they have leveling feet on them so that you can level the stands to one another.
Rocky D
12-08-2002, 07:56 AM
Originally posted by gnewby
...I was also thinking about on the back side of my table welding on a piece of 2" angle iron the length of the table to use as a v- plate or what ever you would want to call it, to use for lining up pieces of pipe or tubing in order to keep them straight while fitting them up. Looking for any input as whether this is a good idea or a dud?
I think you would be better not to weld it to your bench, but make it so you can manuver it around on your table, which will enable you to move your weldment into a comfortable position. I too the angle iron and welded a plate the same width of the iron to clamp to like this: V
I have two of them (1 1/4" x 1 1/4" x 3/16" x 8"angle) for adding pieces to pipe handrails, and stuff. I also have a machined one that has it's own clamps to align bolts and small tubing. Real handy.
gnewby
12-08-2002, 11:15 AM
Rocky D Thanks for the advice. I didn't know how handy or how much it might hamper me to have it welded right to the bench. I earlier said the backside of my bench, but actually my bench would not sit up against any wall as it would sit out where I will have full access all the way around the outside of it. I had seen a few welding trucks that had a v-trough incorporated into the bed of them, so had just been kicking around on the idea of attaching one to the bench. I have made a couple of short pieces aprox. 12" or so long out of angle iron and mounted them to short pieces of flat plate like some I believe that you had shown in an earlier discussion. They have came in real handy, I may make a longer one so I could have more stability with longer pieces of pipe or tubing. Thanks again for your advice.
Rocky D
12-08-2002, 06:28 PM
Originally posted by deere_x475guy
Cope, I plan on building a box to sit under the cutting grates. This should contain the flame and sparks (I hope)...:D
Thanks...Bob
I found this design in my travels, so I drew a picture of it, and I hope it makes sense...the drawing is of a section of the edge of a cutting table, looking down on it...the slats are 1" x 1/8" stainless is best, but steel, even aluminum will work. They are comsumable...as you cut on them they erode, but are useable for quite some time. So as they erode, you just cut another piece of flat bar and replace them! I didn't draw the dimension of the little angle clips, but you can figger it out. :D
Rocky D
12-08-2002, 06:29 PM
OOpps! forgot to post the picture...
I just looked at it, and remember the slats just drop in, and are not welded....and they are 1" on center.
deere_x475guy
12-08-2002, 06:35 PM
Originally posted by Rocky D
OOpps! forgot to post the picture...
Great tip Rocky thanks. I will consider doing this when I get to that point. Today Will was over and we got the table pretty much built. I have to add the lower horizontal pieces yet and get the material for the welding top then get to the cutting grate.
Thanks
Bob
P.S. pics to the project so far are posted farther down in this thread
deere_x475guy
12-08-2002, 06:39 PM
Here is the top piece layed and welded.
deere_x475guy
12-08-2002, 06:43 PM
I tried to take a shot so that it showed the coping. (could be a better shot I know)
deere_x475guy
12-08-2002, 06:45 PM
The top is now ready for the legs
deere_x475guy
12-08-2002, 06:48 PM
on the left side of the leg we used a 90 degree jig I welded on Friday. for the ritht side we just used clamps and a square to make things work.
deere_x475guy
12-08-2002, 06:50 PM
Here is the top with the legs all nice and square. The top came out dead on at exactly 36 and 3/4 corner to corner. (Boy did we get lucky):D
On another note I did decide to go 34" for the legs. Once I get the adjustable ends on it will be close to 34 1/2". After talking with Will about the top I am going with 1/4" welding top and a brace will be added to the center. I think I will use Rocky's idea for the grates (see his post farther up the thread).
Another change from the drawings is the way the legs were attached to the top. I decided to butt weld the legs on. Going outside of the top was going to be a pain to get the angle square to the side. This was they come out great. I will be changing the drawings as soon as I get time to reflect this and replace the drawings that are already at the beginning of this thread.
Will, thanks again for all the help today. I sure did enjoy the great ideas and company.
Have fun all
Bob
Rocky D
12-08-2002, 06:58 PM
Originally posted by deere_x475guy
Here is the top with the legs all nice and square. The top came out dead on at exactly 36 and 3/4 corner to corner. (Boy did we get lucky):D
I'd strongly suggest to gusset the legs to the top, with 4" x 4" gussets...you need 8 of them. Goes together rather quickly, doesn't it?
deere_x475guy
12-08-2002, 07:06 PM
Originally posted by Rocky D
I'd strongly suggest to gusset the legs to the top, with 4" x 4" gussets...you need 8 of them. Goes together rather quickly, doesn't it?
Yes Rocky it does. The hep Will gave me made things much eaisier. And yes I was out admiring the work just a few minutes ago and realized that I should do the gussets on the legs. Thanks..:)
Bob
It did go pretty well today. Bob had most of the steel already cut, so we just squared things up and welded away! Another welding session should finish up the top and lower shelf. I like your idea on the cutting area Rocky D. The slats would be quick and easy to replace, AND you can turn them over and use the other edge as well.
deere_x475guy
12-08-2002, 08:55 PM
Ok...did the changes to the plans. More to be made as I decide on other mods (handles and such). I will also add a bill of materials and approximate cost when I get time.
http://www.hobartwelders.com/mboard/showthread.php?s=&postid=3940#post3940
Having a ball
Bob:D
Rocky D
12-08-2002, 10:09 PM
Originally posted by deere_x475guy
Ok...did the changes to the plans. More to be made as I decide on other mods (handles and such). I will also add a bill of materials and approximate cost when I get time.
http://www.hobartwelders.com/mboard/showthread.php?s=&postid=3940#post3940
Having a ball
Bob:D
Another suggestion (hope you don't mind) is to have a shelf or drawers 6 or 8 inches below the top...alot of times you have a big weldment on the top surface and you need to spin it around and nowhere to put hand tools and such.
deere_x475guy
12-09-2002, 07:12 AM
Originally posted by Rocky D
Another suggestion (hope you don't mind) is to have a shelf or drawers 6 or 8 inches below the top...alot of times you have a big weldment on the top surface and you need to spin it around and nowhere to put hand tools and such.
Don't mind at all....keep them comming. Just gives me more welcing/fab time. I DO NEED THE PRACTICE!...hehe...:D
Rocky D
12-09-2002, 09:21 PM
Originally posted by Rocky D
I think you would be better not to weld it to your bench, but make it so you can manuver it around on your table, which will enable you to move your weldment into a comfortable position. I too the angle iron and welded a plate the same width of the iron to clamp to like this: V
I have two of them (1 1/4" x 1 1/4" x 3/16" x 8"angle) for adding pieces to pipe handrails, and stuff. I also have a machined one that has it's own clamps to align bolts and small tubing. Real handy.
Here's a picture of tube/pipe aligners
gnewby
12-10-2002, 06:19 AM
Thanks for showing me the pictures of the tubing aligning tools, I have two like the ones you have on the left of the picture.
deere_x475guy
12-22-2002, 05:49 PM
I decided to use a 1/2" nut and carraige bolt for leg levelers. This is a shot of the weld on the nuts.
deere_x475guy
12-22-2002, 05:50 PM
A pic of the table frame complete. Just need to add the insert fr the cutting area, top and then what ever I am going to do for the bottom level
deere_x475guy
12-22-2002, 05:52 PM
The next step was to build the frame for the cutting area. I used the same 1 1/2 inch angle for the frame. This 90 degree jig sure speeds things up for making sguare frames.
deere_x475guy
12-22-2002, 05:54 PM
This picture is of the chop saw with a quick make shift jig for cutting all the flat steel to the same length.
deere_x475guy
12-22-2002, 05:56 PM
here is the cutting frame with all the flat steel finally welded in place. (Thanks Will this would have taken me forever without a second pair of hands)
deere_x475guy
12-22-2002, 05:57 PM
Here is a pic of the frame fitting into its place on the welding table.
Tackweld
12-22-2002, 10:33 PM
Back in late '99 I glued this channel & angle iron frame together to support a 55 Gallon barrel for...Yep, Gas for the Y2K generator. No collapse of the world so the gas went into the tractors over time until bbl was empty, frame then sat in woods for awhile till I did this to it...
It sat in the woods flat on the channel, now the middle of the 3 pipes in front and the 2 in back support it in the shop-arage, outside the 2 outer pipes are for stabilizers (gravel drive).
Dman033189
05-10-2004, 01:38 PM
I was wondering if you ever got it done could I see a picture of it I need to build a welding table soon.
We have a 5' X 8' Weldsale table at work that's 32in high. This allows a person to lean half way across the table and make welds on larger weldments. For most work it is a little hard on the back and I use an old office chair for positioning. Our work tables are made by stronghold and are 36in. I can see where 36ins would be more comfortable for most welding. I don't know about cutting as I like to cut looking down and keep the sparks away from my upper body. Florida is too hot for leathers. Had one go down my shoe last week, think I would learn not burn. Not!! The older I get the stupider I become.