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97ZJ
05-06-2011, 10:25 AM
My factory bumpers have always been something I didn’t like. And, the aftermarket tow hitch was always hanging too low in the rear, dragging on everything. So, I finally decided it was time to do something about this.

I started this whole project by heading out to the store, and coming home with a Hobart Handler 187 MIG welder. After adding a C25 gas bottle to it, and a 10lb spool of solid wire, I was all set to start on my bumper build.

I had 3 main requirements with this project. First, I wanted to try to maintain a visual appearance similar to the factory plastic cover. Second, I wanted the hitch receiver integrated into the bumper, and raised to regain ground clearance in the rear. Third, it had to remain removable in case of damage that may need repaired, or upgrades/modifications.

The build itself began with removing the rear plastic cover, to find the metal bumper completely rusted off and falling to the floor. That just made the removal easier for me, and everything was tossed in the corner. I then removed the hitch, completely opening up the rear end. Now I had something to start with.

After wire brushing the hitch’s mounts and repainting them, I reinstalled them, using a ¼” thick backing plate inside the unibody rails, rather than the original studs. This should help distribute the loads much better underneath. I used ½” grade 8 hardware everywhere requiring a bolt on this project.

I then took ¼” plate, and made two main arms that will come off these mounts, and run clear through the bumper to hold shackles (or D-Rings, if you prefer). This will provide for a straight pull to the unibody rails, hopefully minimizing any potential of ripping the metal down there. These plates also provided the location to weld the 2x2 ¼” wall square tube that will be the main attachment point for the receiver tube. I tacked all of this together on the vehicle to make sure all the measurements were accurate, then pulled everything off to do the finish welding. Since this will make up the entire support framework, I wanted this all fully welded before moving any farther.

http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad194/ebowerman03/Rear%20Bumper%20Build/DSCN0783.jpg

http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad194/ebowerman03/Rear%20Bumper%20Build/DSCN0798web.jpg

Once I had the framework welded, I mounted it back on the Jeep and started cutting and tacking what I would call the ‘skin’ of the bumper. This is all made out of 3/16” sheet steel. This took a lot of cutting, grinding, staring into space, and rework to get everything how I wanted it, and clearanced properly. I think the pictures can speak for themselves for a while…

http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad194/ebowerman03/Rear%20Bumper%20Build/DSCN0802web.jpg

http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad194/ebowerman03/Rear%20Bumper%20Build/DSCN0804.jpg

http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad194/ebowerman03/Rear%20Bumper%20Build/DSCN0807.jpg

http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad194/ebowerman03/Rear%20Bumper%20Build/DSCN0810.jpg

Once everything was tacked how I wanted it, it came off the Jeep and went on the jack stands (broke man’s equivalent of a welding table…) to be welded. Every seam was welded from both sides to guarantee penetration, and make sure it could be ground flush. Plus it was an excuse to use the welder more and get used to it.

http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad194/ebowerman03/Rear%20Bumper%20Build/DSCN0814.jpg

http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad194/ebowerman03/Rear%20Bumper%20Build/DSCN0821.jpg

After a couple of solid evenings of welding, it was ready to be ground smooth on the exterior. Two days of grinding later, I could be seen re-welding on half the seams when I found all the spots I missed, or made swiss-cheese instead of a solid bead. Another day of grinding, and it was ready for primer and paint.

http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad194/ebowerman03/Rear%20Bumper%20Build/DSCN0831.jpg

And so the finished product ended up looking like this, all mounted.

http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad194/ebowerman03/Rear%20Bumper%20Build/DSCN0839web.jpg

urch55
05-06-2011, 12:17 PM
Well now you're a professional grinder.:cool:
I think the design looks good. I would have used heavier flat bar or channel for the frame and shackle mounts tho, maybe even 1/4" for the skin and reinforced it around the sides, that would help if the sides got pushed against.
But over all you done a good job..

97ZJ
05-06-2011, 01:26 PM
Thank you urch55. I have to agree about becoming a pro with the grinder!

I agree on the frame, and actually figure on redoing that portion at some point. I will most likely use 2x3" tube for the frame, which fits inside the unibody rails nicely. And hopefully be able to find some 1/2-3/4" pieces I can use for the shackle mounts.

As far as the skin goes, 3/16" is what the local steel supplier had in cheap drops :D Plus, I looked at what some of the big manufacturers were using, and it seemed to be 3/16" overall. I figured if that's good enough for them to sell to me at $600+ for a bumper, why not use it?

I do have some gussets behind everything, but noticed I need a few more, specifically around the sides where you mentioned. That will probably be taken care of some evening in the next few weeks.

Being that this is my first bumper build, and really my first major welding project, I definitely learned a lot. Next on the list, the front bumper...

donald branscom
05-22-2011, 04:27 PM
Nice work very professional job.

whateg0
05-22-2011, 04:57 PM
Looks nicely done, and a good choice for a first project. That said, I agree that the strap where the clevises are attached could be a little heavier. I don't think they are going to break real easily unless you try to yank on them real hard with a chain, but they will certainly bend to whatever direction suits them. Simply bolting a piece of heavier material alongside it will help with that, but it will provide a place for moisture to accumulate in time.

My thoughts on the thickness are that you can make the skin thicker, but when you hit something hard, something, somewhere is going to give. It may as well be the bumper that can be removed and fixed rather than the "frame" of the Jeep. You also have to consider that anything you add is going to make the whole vehicle heavier, so you could build it out of 1" plate and it won't bend, buy you'll need extra suspension to keep it from dragging! :D


Dave

FWI
06-13-2011, 05:59 PM
Nice project, nice fab work, looks good man!

daniel1381
06-20-2011, 09:18 PM
Looks like a pro

97ZJ
06-23-2011, 07:14 AM
Thanks for all the replies everyone. I've definitely taken everything into consideration on the front bumper I have begun to build for this Jeep. Hopefully that will be completed in a couple of weeks here...

Blacksmith
06-23-2011, 08:53 AM
Looks very good. Exactly what you want and you built it. As blacksmiths, we can hammer or file to get it right; hammering is more fun. Same for welding, you can weld or grind and I suspect your welding will improve.

daniel1381
08-27-2011, 08:19 PM
Did you use a plasma torch to make such nice cuts?

97ZJ
08-30-2011, 08:46 AM
Did you use a plasma torch to make such nice cuts?

Actually, the entire rear bumper minus 2 somewhat complex cuts was done with a cutoff wheel on a 4.5" angle grinder. Went through a lot of cutoff wheels...

The front bumper I built (and still need to get pictures posted of) was 99% plasma cutter, and made me wonder why I didn't find a way to do that the first time around.

leftlanetruckin
07-13-2012, 05:39 PM
Re mounts, these are the mounts I make for the rear Range Rover bumpers I make...
The clevis (1" solid stock) gets through welded into the brackets, and the brackets have nuts welded onto them for easier removal.
34973
34974
My XJ bumper is along the same lines as your rear one though.
34975
34976

Martin

urch55
07-13-2012, 06:57 PM
Re mounts, these are the mounts I make for the rear Range Rover bumpers I make...
The clevis (1" solid stock) gets through welded into the brackets, and the brackets have nuts welded onto them for easier removal.

Martin,
That's a nice looking bumper. What thickness did you use for the 'skin' of the bumper??

http://www.hobartwelders.com/weldtalk/attachment.php?attachmentid=34976&d=1342219135

leftlanetruckin
07-13-2012, 07:03 PM
Thank you!
The main section is actually 2x6x3/16" box IIRC. It is welded for future duties as an air tank.
The other "trim" pieces are 1/8".
Now you can tell me how to make the pics click free!:D
I did the upload deal, as I do on JF, RR.Net, and others, but it didn't display the picture directly.......:confused:
That was taken with some "little" 35's that I installed for DD driving, this is what is wears now, as I sold the 35's and wheels due to the need for wheel adapters (made the wheels stick out too far IMHO)
34979
There, figured it out....I hope! Or not....
Martin

urch55
07-13-2012, 07:23 PM
The jeep don't look bad, does it have the adapters on in the picture??. The mud adds a bit of character don't you think??

http://www.hobartwelders.com/weldtalk/attachment.php?attachmentid=34979&d=1342224732

leftlanetruckin
07-13-2012, 07:41 PM
No adapters in that picture. I run Jeep JK Rubicon axles, and they are a 5 on 5 bolt pattern. The wheels I had for DD'ing were the "normal" Jeep pattern of 5 on 4.5". Trying to find used wheels off a JK for a reasonable price has been a challenge, so we now just run the 37's and be done with it. Sounds OK.......with ear plugs!
We normally just do rocks, so the mud is an accident when it gets on there!;)

http://youtu.be/7jISV_DjRJs

OP, sorry for the highjack mate!
Martin

urch55
07-13-2012, 08:01 PM
Nice articulation..
http://www.hobartwelders.com/weldtalk/attachment.php?attachmentid=34981&d=1342226216

On the last climb in the video it didn't look like the front drive was working, did you have issues with it???

mikecwik
07-13-2012, 09:09 PM
evanescence? sounds like them but i dont know their music well but i like it.

leftlanetruckin
07-13-2012, 10:58 PM
The front drive was fine I think. There is a ledge there that makes it get very tippy, so a mate of mine wrapped a strap around the front to try to balance it a little when I drove it over the last ledge.
The front is on modified Clayton long arms and 6.5" coils. The rear has 5.5" leafs from IRO, and a shackle relocation kit along with boomerang shackles from RE. Also has the electric lockers from the JK Rubicon, and a 4:1 kit in the transfer case. Hydro assist does steering duties. We need to hook up some time for some wheeling!
Yes that is Evanescene. Get some of their music, it is pretty good if you like the same as me:D

Martin