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View Full Version : Experience w cablerail.com/Feeney



Keith_L
03-17-2011, 09:14 PM
Searched, found threads only about pipe fences.

I'm gonna be installing my 2nd cable rail soon. I've been ordering the system from cablerail.com/Feeney Architectural. I've investigated stuff from Ultra Tec but had some concerns.

For now would prefer not to debate manufacturers but focus on the Feeney product.

The last one I did I had lots of problems w the nuts galling on the threaded ends. NO, I did not use any power tools to spin them down, was only using a ratcheting wrench and going slow by hand.

I believe this was for three reasons:
1. the nuts are stainless and so are the threaded studs of course. Stainless on stainless (316) is more likely to gall.
2. they use fine thread which I think is a mistake, esp w stainless on stainless. I believe coarse thread would be less likely to gall while still allowing for adequate tension.
3. for reasons I still can't understand they use a locknut of sorts, basically w a deformed thread at the top of the nut. I'm still unclear on how a cable under high tension in a static application is gonna spin a nut loose.

Anyhow I'm thinking about at least addressing item #3 and running a tap thru the nut to get rid of the locking function. Anyone else done this? I keep thinking they wouldn't have gone to the trouble unless it was necessary, and I don't see how it's necessary.

You can't swap to standard nuts w/out losing their proprietary groove which allows their decorative caps to pop on.

Roger
03-18-2011, 12:22 AM
Use anti seize compound on threads to reduce galling. Brass nut on SS threads have no corrosion or galling problems with salt water spray. But not as strong. Have used this on weather deck ship board gas cylinder racks.

Keith_L
04-11-2011, 12:57 PM
After my second install of CableRail I wanted to correct one thing regarding the threads:

on job #1 the customer insisted upon 1/4" cable which used 5/16-24 threads (fine). However on job #2 1/8" cable was used which came with 1/4-20 (coarse).

I ran a 1/4-20 tap thru each nut beforehand to clean out whatever thread locker they use. Install went much better and without incident.

SidecarFlip
04-11-2011, 02:38 PM
+1 on anti-sieze. Use a copper based Permatex product. I'd leave the thread locker alone as well as the deformed thread. Reason being, cables vibrate from wind action. Thread locker/ deformed threads are/ is SOP on all my stainless products.

I actually use a prescribed distance concerning thread clearance on my blind holes that allows the fastener to bottom within not fully formed threads, effectively locking it.