How stop Aluminum oxidation/corrosion??

[Old Chipper]

Hello,
I built an enclosed metal storage area. Have needed one for many years! Old area was a shed open on one end. My problem is all my aluminum has corroded, some pretty bad! In the first place I don’t understand why it happened. I had all the smaller pieces in plastic bins. Long stuff was on a rack by itself. I’m aware of the dissimilar metal thing!
Do any of you know of a product that I can soak the cutoffs and brush/wipe down the big stuff? I have a lot invested in my so-called scraps! I need your wisdom!
Thanks!

[SidecarFlip]

Most all aluminum oxidizes or 'white rusts' unless it's marine grade 6000 series and even that will over time.

The only way I know of to prevent white rust is anodizing, especially if the aluminum is allowed to get moisture on it. I'm open to suggerstions as well.

Aluminum sweats just like ferrous so if it's kept in an unheated building, especially one with a floor at grade level, various times of the year will allow it to sweat and corrode.

[Pangea]

Unless you storage area is climate controlled, you will have this problem. There is a solution but it is expensive. We coat rocket parts for long term storage with a product similar to the stuff that pliers handles are dipped in. it is painted on in two coats, smells terrible, messy and expensive but it works like it is designed to work. You'll have to research it because I can't remember the name of the stuff. It is bright blue in color and we call it elephant hide.

[B_C]

Unless you storage area is climate controlled, you will have this problem. There is a solution but it is expensive. We coat rocket parts for long term storage with a product similar to the stuff that pliers handles are dipped in. it is painted on in two coats, smells terrible, messy and expensive but it works like it is designed to work. You'll have to research it because I can't remember the name of the stuff. It is bright blue in color and we call it elephant hide.

Is that the same way you told me to do it Dave?

http://www.virginmedia.com/images/peanut_butter_jelly430x300.jpg

[Pangea]

Is that the same way you told me to do it Dave?

http://www.virginmedia.com/images/peanut_butter_jelly430x300.jpg

Goodgawdahmighty! You crack me up! :D

[Old Chipper]

Thanks guys,
I must’ve had a senior moment when I asked my question! What I meant to ask for was an easy way to remove the corrosion, rather than sanding or blasting! Once I get everything clean; I will spray on a light coat of Zinc Chromate Primer. We used that on all our aircraft parts and stock. In all kinds of weather from Iceland to NM! It is not too expensive, NAPA has it for about $8,00 a can.

[usmcpop]

There's Aluminum Jelly. Or you could use a lye solution, which will attack both the corrosion and the base metal, so don't leave it on long.

[B_C]

Goodgawdahmighty! You crack me up! :D

Oh good at least i'm doing something right........Have a great Thanks Giving ...

[Hotfoot]

Is that the same way you told me to do it Dave?

http://www.virginmedia.com/images/peanut_butter_jelly430x300.jpg

Given the season, I assume that's a Sweet Potato (or Yam) and Cranberry Sandwich? :confused:

[vicegrip]

There's Aluminum Jelly. Or you could use a lye solution, which will attack both the corrosion and the base metal, so don't leave it on long.

Any stong caustic will do.
Like D!ck says, leave it on to long you'll remove base metal too.
Recoat promptly.
No easier or cheaper way then mixing some white-gass (Coleman-Fuel)
into a tub of vasalene, past on with a paint-brush.
Lay stock on a chosen surface allready coated, by placing said surface
on wax-paper. The white-gass evaporates leaving the film behind.
Place into storage, good-to go.

Remove with basicly any solvent later for welding.
For maching, the same substance is an excellant cutting paste.
So just leave it on.
vg

[jbmprods]

Thanks guys,
I must’ve had a senior moment when I asked my question! What I meant to ask for was an easy way to remove the corrosion, rather than sanding or blasting! Once I get everything clean; I will spray on a light coat of Zinc Chromate Primer. We used that on all our aircraft parts and stock. In all kinds of weather from Iceland to NM! It is not too expensive, NAPA has it for about $8,00 a can.
sorry for resurrecting this old post but i just read it. go to your local pressure washer sales and you can buy aluminum brightener (acid) in probably quart and definitely 1 and 5 gallon jugs and mix it accordingly with water and spray it on to remove oxides and restore to white aluminum . rinse thoroughly with high pressure water. used it on my rigs to clean truck wheels and aluminum trailers. wheel brightener from car parts stores works good for small amounts of aluminum parts. it doesn't remove any metal like sanding or blasting. just be sure to follow the directions for strength or dilution rates.

[Medal-hobby]

Powder clear-coat.

[benderkevin]

Unless the material is pitting I would wait until you have it built before I would bother with a caustic/acidic wash.

Weld it up or bolt it together and then hit it with some sort of caustic/acidic wash. Then throw the zinc chromate paint on it.

Depending on where you live the soil/dust might be just as much a problem for you as the moisture.