trailer light requirements

[Thomas Harris]

Anyone know where one would find the specifics on lighting requirements for a boat trailer. I have a small deep 14' with a 25hp outboard. I am looking to modify the lights so they do not get dunked with each landing. The elevated lights will also make landing/launching at night much easier, epecially with steep landings. Couldn't find a lot of info online.

[Jim-Tx]

http://www.michigan.gov/documents/vehicle_equipment_requirements_8583_7.pdf

[boykjo]

Jim-tx beat me to it.........I dont see what advatage you would get with the lights up higher. They are still behind the boat. I would buy a good set of submersible trailer lights. Dont buy a cheep set or you'll be replacing them in no time. I would look into a 12v dc spot light u can clamp somewhere if your in need of some extra lighting

my 2cents

[enlpck]

Other option is magnetic lights. Pull them off before the trailer goes in the water. Just need to remember to put them on before hitting the road.

[drizler]

Rather than lights up higher put that upright to real use. Cover them with soft padding and make them high enough so they center the boat and hold it fairly straight and level. It will save you lots of headaches doing it by yourself and especially when the water level goes down. That plays tricks on trailers and sometimes it's nearly impossible to keep it from rolling way over on one side or the other. That can drive you nuts with a bigger boat especially when you are doing it alone. They even make maneuvering it in reverse empty easier. Spring for the modern sealed LED lights and be done with all the hassle chasing shorts and open poor contact circuits. Take the time to solder and completely heat shrink ( double is better) all your connections so you dont have to dink with it constantly like I do:rolleyes:
Grommets in the holes where the wires pass through are a nice touch too.

[Thomas Harris]

Rather than lights up higher put that upright to real use. Cover them with soft padding and make them high enough so they center the boat and hold it fairly straight and level. It will save you lots of headaches doing it by yourself and especially when the water level goes down. That plays tricks on trailers and sometimes it's nearly impossible to keep it from rolling way over on one side or the other. That can drive you nuts with a bigger boat especially when you are doing it alone. They even make maneuvering it in reverse empty easier. Spring for the modern sealed LED lights and be done with all the hassle chasing shorts and open poor contact circuits. Take the time to solder and completely heat shrink ( double is better) all your connections so you dont have to dink with it constantly like I do:rolleyes:
Grommets in the holes where the wires pass through are a nice touch too.

Yes, that feature was in my mind too. I especially don't like it disappearing on steep landings. Never now if it's smashing the dock or what! My existing trailer side bunks do a fair job on keeping it centered for reloading. This is actually where the offset pieces of 1-1/2" tube are going to be attached. made a nice "poor mans" bend in it. Four side by side cuts, then bend and reweld it back to one piece. Not for production, but works for one or two.

[drizler]

Yes, that feature was in my mind too. I especially don't like it disappearing on steep landings. Never now if it's smashing the dock or what! My existing trailer side bunks do a fair job on keeping it centered for reloading. This is actually where the offset pieces of 1-1/2" tube are going to be attached. made a nice "poor mans" bend in it. Four side by side cuts, then bend and reweld it back to one piece. Not for production, but works for one or two.

I forgot to mention how that low water once made mine turn about 45 degrees over to one side pulling it out once. Some sort of magic about the low water lever affecting the angle of the boat ramp that I never could figure out but late September can be a beast for me. Dented the trailer fender but at least the boat was ok. Weird and I have never in 10 years been able to figure it out, just live with it. Yea it truly sucks when the trailer dips out of sight just as it crests the ramp and it always wants to go one way or the other. NY loves to put those concrete pipe pillars right there to hit too. Overton's want big $$$ for a couple brackets, thin tubing and padding. It's almost easier to just make your own than to buy theirs.

[Thurman]

Or do like the man from Alabama had done. We went fishing last May ('09) over in Alabama at a State Park. Here comes this guy who had rigged his trailer lights so they would float as he entered the water. What? He had found some hollow plastic parts from a kids toy, slipped them over some PVC piping which stuck up on each side of the trailer's rear end. had made a guide of 1/4" rod to keep the lights centered, and fastened the light onto the top of the hollow parts. When he started backing into the water, the hollow parts would just float up the lights to keep them above water level and the guides kept them straight. A flex cord supplied power to the lights. Darn thing worked too cool. He had a crowd around his trailer and anyone who asked him "mind if I borrow your idea?" he just told them to "go ahead". Ingenuity at it's best. David