View Full Version : Hobart Handler 180: Settings for Sheet Quarter Welding?
02-14-2010, 10:43 PM
Hi Guys. Havent stopped by in a while. I have to do quarter patch panel replacement. I have it all clamped up with the sheet clamps, leaving about a 1/16" gap all around.
I have had some burn through, on the lowest setting, 1. I would like to know if I should speed up or slow down the wire feed? It seems to always like the 50-65 range for almost everything else I did, but everything else was thicker also...
Im pretty sure Im using .030 wire, but not 100% since the label is gone.
Last question is, where can i buy some of those backing plates, besides eastwood co, that are copper magnetic? seems like there the monopoly... I will ask this one in the tools area as well.
02-14-2010, 11:08 PM
I'm no pro here but for sheet metal I think I would go for less or no gap on my fit up, that is, if you can.
I would also think that if you are burning thru, then faster travel would help. Are you working on this in place or on the bench?
Just a thought from a nobody.
02-15-2010, 07:48 AM
i use 023 and no gap and just keep tacking in different places so not to warp as far as settings 1/30 area but my steel on the jeep is a little thin but it works, c25 for gas hh187
02-15-2010, 10:41 AM
Hi Tom, yes working on this on a vertical part of the quarter panel.
Thanks CBorema! I will try lowering my wire speed a lot. I never even thought of dropping it to 30, but i will try. im pretty sure the hh187 is just a newer version of the hh180... should be similar settings.
02-15-2010, 11:35 AM
for a backing plate all I did was go down to lowes and get about 2 foot of 2" copper tubing and flatten it out. works great!
.023 solid wire and C-25 shielding gas is the best way to have the unit set up for thin ga sheet metal. .023 wire will allow you to dial in the unit about 10 amps lower then an .030; which, should help reduce your chances of burn through.
02-15-2010, 09:08 PM
you have to really pay attention to the contact to work distance. you can try lower or higher cfh on the gas, i have mine about 15. if i see a little burn thru i stop or weave and go back to spot tacking. but jeeps usually dont have perfect bodies anyway
02-21-2010, 02:21 AM
Most definietely use .024, and close that gap up abit.With sheetmetal you want to weld small portions even spotwelds but make sure they are penetrating, it is very hard to advise the heat it is something you have to gauge by trial and error.
03-05-2010, 10:53 AM
I use a setting of 1 and wire speed of 50 on my HH187 for 16-18ga sheet. .023 and c25. Tack, tack, tack... Jumping around as much as possible to avoid warping.
Edges are butted together with little to no gap (depending on the accuracy of my cuts on the replacement panels:o). I back any gaps with a copper spoon I picked up at Harbor Freight.
07-29-2010, 02:29 PM
I would definitely agree with these guys and the .023 or .024 wire vs the .030 Just so you are aware I'm completely new at welding and probably only have an hour total under my belt. A friend of my dad's stopped by one day when I was screwing around on some old sheet metal either 20 or 22 Gauge. He made me buy some of the .024 wire and get some C-25 I also am at about 15cfh. I was amazed at how much better I was at welding...(because you are using the right stuff!) I'm just about to jump into working on a 1974 Nova that needs some work above the wheel wells and fenders, I'll see what happens and maybe report back. Goodluck!
01-05-2011, 10:36 AM
I used my MIG for bodywork. Was a 1985 Dodge pickup.
Had to tack and move. When the area was getting hot I shut er down and waited for it to cool. Eventually the tacks became closer and then longer until the panel was welded up. Pulse would be a big benefit. I used the trigger to give me my pulse effect.
Keep any one area from getting hot.
Because you are tacking you will want the heat not to be too low or the weld just sits on top. I kept the heat up a little so the weld was under as well as on top of the metal. Remember, you will sand off the weld to make the bodywork smooth. The weld that is on the underside will be what is left.
No gap. As much as possible you need no gap.
One trick is to tack a backing strip in and then set the patch panel on top of the backing strip. Pull tight with can-drill screws and tacky, tacky. After finished, pull screws and plug weld holes left behind.
Here is one problem. Very quickly the auto manufacturers changed to lighter and lighter metal to save weight and improve mileage. What works for a 1973 is different than for a 1985 (is lighter) and now is impossible to use MIG effectively on modern cars.
Currently epoxy is used to glue panels onto even new car bodies and also for repair panels.
Hope this helps.