looking to get a saw

[new welder guy]

i need to get a band or chop saw to cut some exhuast tubing with i was looking at some of the ones that harborfreight dose anyone have any input on those if they are any good or not.witch sae is better for tubing working? like exhaust and intercooler piping

[Steve G]

I have one of the one's from HF, it's the chicago one. It's shaky and rough and not extremely powerful... having said all that, I think it's a great deal, it cuts the steel square and it was like $60:D

Very good deal, had it for 2 years probably still goin!

[whateg0]

For $60, I'm guessing that Steve G has a chopsaw. I don't know how much you plan to use it, but since getting my bandsaw, I only rarely use my chopsaw. (Last night was one of those times when the bandsaw blade broke at 2 am.) The HF bandsaw is not perfect, but for the money, seem so to be a valuable tool. It tends to need some tweaking to get things aligned right, but any cutting tool needs to be tweaked. There are little things like the tension adjustment and the clamp that are not as good as some would like. But they get the job done, and that's what counts. If you want to live without some of those little things, you can spend more money and buy a namebrand.

Dave

[new welder guy]

i got 200-300 to spend im look a good tool but not trying to brake the bank

[dakkasnik]

a list of good saws
1. 4.5 inch grinder with a cutting wheel
2. a 20$ air powered sabre style body saw
3. a 20$ nibbler from HF
4. a good sawsall style 120 volt saw....ridgid, milwaukee, porter cable, etc
5. a milwaukee band saw, buy milwaukee and also the stand attachment
6. one of new new metal cutting circular saws

I find that the, "order of usefullness", of these tools for my needs....

For a big bandsaw, check the one sold by Sears.....Ive seen it up close.....tight tolerances and good sealed bearings. costs more than the HF one, but the exact same style. I think the difference is in the quality of the parts and how well lit is finished out.

HF tools are ok....I think the more you pay...the better the bearings and motors though. It is DEFINATELY true with the chop saws...my 20 year old milwaukee will outcut any of those HF tools.....its the quality of the gears, motor and bearings....sometimes, quality is better than savings.

[mikecwik]

it might be fine for cutting exhaust, ive never tried that but i dread using a abrasive chopsaw. for me that was money poorly spent.
i dont know how well cold cut saws cut thin stuff but they do make different blades for it. thats what i wish i would have gotten. that or a band saw. i dont have much money to spend on stuff either but im guessing id be happier had i saved up for a year for a quality band or a few months for a cold cut which is what im doing anyway.

[nashvillebill]

I have the 4x6 bandsaw from Harbor Freight. Got it for around $159 I think (caught it on sale or either used a 15% off coupon)...

It's worked quite well for me. Granted, it's not made as well as one would like, but whaddya want for less than $200?? There's a Yahoo newsgroup dedicated to this saw, with all sorts of good ideas for improvements. It is quite serviceable and my go-to saw for weldments requiring precise fitups.

By comparison, I also have a Dewalt 14" abrasive cutoff saw ("chop saw") that cost around $200 about 15 years ago. I used it for years before getting a bandsaw. I also have a good Sawzall and a few other cutting implements such as air cutoff saw, etc.

Each tool has its strengths and weaknesses:

Bandsaw--
pros:
cuts nice precise cuts. No fumes or sparks (only "sawdust"). Start cutting and it'll continue the cut unattended. Quiet.
cons:
Relatively slow. Not portable. Cannot cut hardened material. Cannot handle irregular shapes well.

Chop saw (abrasive)
pros:
Quick. Cuts hard steel. Portable.
cons:
Sparks (I've caught grass on fire). Noisy. Gotta be there for full time of cut. Not very accurate (sometimes causing poor fitups for welding). Cannot handle irregular shapes well

Sawzall:
pros:
Cuts odd shapes. Very portable.
cons:
Physically demanding to hold for many long cuts. No precision at all. Cannot cut hardened steel. Exposed reciprocating blade.

[usmcpop]

With a bandsaw, you always want two teeth in contact with the work, which is a problem with thin material.

[SmokinPRanch]

I'm wondering if maybe a pipe/tubing cutter might work better in this application. It wouldn't work in any areas of bends but if you're cutting straight sections it might be ideal. Clean, square cut.

As Usmcpop said, getting a blade to work with that thin of material in a bandsaw will be tough. Abrasive saw probably work better. But i hate using an abrasive saw.

I don't know if they make them, but maybe an abrasive type band saw blade would work for tubing then switch to regular tooth blade for heavier material?

Al

[whateg0]

Exhaust tubing isn't all that thin. (Well, compared to 1" plate, I guess it is.) I've used an 18T blade in my band saw with thinner tubing. Depending on how thin it is, you may still have to babysit it and help the feed rate, but it can be done without too much trouble. I guess it depends on how much of this you'll be doing. I see that HF even sells a 24TPI blade. At that pitch, ideally the thinnest material should be slightly thicker than 14 ga steel. But I don't think it would have any trouble with it.

I guess a big lathe is outside the budget. That would work for parting off sections of straight tubing, regardless of the thickness. Maybe a tubing cutter would be less expensive. :rolleyes:

Dave

[new welder guy]

i have a sawzall for somethings but i want something for stright cuts and 45* angles

[old blue]

Are those intercooler components aluminum? Even if they're not, you're better off with a bandsaw. Cheaper, quieter, cleaner, safer, more accurate, faster...

Only if portability is THE PRIMARY CONCERN do any of the little 14" chopsaws make sense.

[new welder guy]

im not looking to move it alot more of a shop tool.can i cut 45* angles and what not on a band saw or do i need a chop saw for that?

[FabPeddler]

I have the Harbor Freight bandsaw, I have had it for 4 yrs, and it has been a great little saw. You can also cut up to 45 degree with it, and it works will with the 16 guage and 14 guage tube I mostly cut with it.

My buddy who has a muffler shop liked it so much that he bought a similar one on ebay from reliable tools. They rarely use the chopsaw in his shop any more. Advantage, no sparks and less cleanup.

I would say get the bandsaw and you can always add more to ur arsenal later.

[new welder guy]

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=93762 is that the type of band saw you guys are talking about?

[FabPeddler]

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=93762 is that the type of band saw you guys are talking about?

there's my lil baby,
only mine is green,
ol' skool I guess

[whateg0]

Mine is the red one shown. It's served me well.

Dave

[ksilinux]

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=93762 is that the type of band saw you guys are talking about?

Yep, this is one of the most frequently used tools in my shop and I can not imagine how I could do anything without it...

Not the prettiest one for sure but for its price it is an excellent tool. I have one for something like 6 years and it is still going OK. The only part replaced during that time was a bolt holding the vise to the table--the tread wore out. And it is used almost every day, quite heavily. BTW, don't get fooled buy other brands of the same saw claiming they are superior to the HF one. They are absolutely identical except for labels and paint but the HF one is way cheaper that its closest rival.

It cuts 4x4x3/16" steel tube @90 degrees without problems. I'm also able to cut it @45 degrees but original vise can not be used so one has to use improvised clamps for holding workpiece in place.

It cuts square and smooth once properly setup.

HF saw blades are cr@p; don't even try them. I use 24 tpi Ridgid blades for steel and 18 tpi ones for everything else. Steel I cut on medium speed, aluminum on fast one. Ridgid blades are available at Home Depot for for something like $10 or so. They are very durable and cut like a charm. There is no benefit in using more expensive blades; they are not any better that $10 or so Ridgid ones.

[new welder guy]

how long do the blades last when cutting piping or box tubing?

[whateg0]

Depends on the quality of the blade, feed pressure, thickness of material, blade pitch in relation to the thickness of the material, type of material, etc. It seems like these little saws go through blades quicker than bigger saws due to the diameter of the tires. At least that is my best guess. It seems like I break a blade about once a month with my usage. I was always told tighten as tight as you can by hand, but it has been suggested to me that maybe on these small 4x6 saws that it might be too much. I started to mill a blade welding jig the other night, and then I'll start rewelding mine. Not sure how much I can stretch the life, but I hate to throw away an otherwise good blade.

The cost per cut seems to be less than that of the chop saw, even if I were to discard my blades. I pay about $24 each at Grainger for Morse blades prewelded to length. Enco has about the same price for Irwin blades, but I would have to pay shipping unless I catch a special. Right now, Enco has the 10% + free shipping on orders > $100, so I may go ahead and order a couple of blades on top of some other stuff I need.

I will also add, that using bimetal blades is almost a must on these saws. You could probably use the blade that comes with the saw for, um, balsa wood though.

Just my 2.1¢.

Dave

[JoeS]

if you are just going to use this saw to cut exhaust and intercooler tubing, meaning mild steel or aluminum, get yourself a chain cutter, specifically made to cut exhaust tubing. Here is a link to a typical one:
https://www.autobodytoolmart.com/kd-exhaust-tailpipe-cutter-2031-p-14739.aspx

they are relatively inexpensive, and are fantastic for the job you need it for. you can make s a straight cut, or one that is offset up to about 10 degrees.

if you plan to cut stainless steel tubing, either a sawzall, or a portaband of your choice is the best bet. invest in good bimetal blades, no matter what you cut with them.

I will follow up cuts on a disc/belt sander because i have one, but it's not necessary if you plan your cuts accordingly, though it makes it very easy to tweak your cuts for fitup.

these are the tools i use when building exhaust systems, up to 3.5" inches. the chain cutter is only good to around 3", before the handles are spread too far apart to finish a cut, but i often use them as a cut guide, once it scores the material. I also assume you have a bench vise that can hold the tubing, that really makes the job easy.

you can easily pick up a both tools(chain cutter/either saw) for under the budget you are looking at.

[new welder guy]

great info thanks for the help ill be sure to get good blades when i get my own band saw :D



Depends on the quality of the blade, feed pressure, thickness of material, blade pitch in relation to the thickness of the material, type of material, etc. It seems like these little saws go through blades quicker than bigger saws due to the diameter of the tires. At least that is my best guess. It seems like I break a blade about once a month with my usage. I was always told tighten as tight as you can by hand, but it has been suggested to me that maybe on these small 4x6 saws that it might be too much. I started to mill a blade welding jig the other night, and then I'll start rewelding mine. Not sure how much I can stretch the life, but I hate to throw away an otherwise good blade.

The cost per cut seems to be less than that of the chop saw, even if I were to discard my blades. I pay about $24 each at Grainger for Morse blades prewelded to length. Enco has about the same price for Irwin blades, but I would have to pay shipping unless I catch a special. Right now, Enco has the 10% + free shipping on orders > $100, so I may go ahead and order a couple of blades on top of some other stuff I need.

I will also add, that using bimetal blades is almost a must on these saws. You could probably use the blade that comes with the saw for, um, balsa wood though.

Just my 2.1¢.

Dave

[bvk]

another vote for the HF red bandsaw with the 1HP motor. get a good blade, align it properly, change the gearbox crap chinese oil out (and make sure it's clean in there) and it goes for ages reliably.

If you join the yahoo group there's plenty of ideas for a better table, adding a coolant system and blade brush etc.

I have previously bought one of the $50 HF chopsaws, what a piece of crap, it wobbled out of the box and I stupidly lost the reciept.... $50 down the tube.

[new welder guy]

i was at the tsc the other day and they have a like band saw for 250 bucks just like the hf ones so i think ill get one from the tsc for the same money and it looks to be built better to me andit sure dose weight more and the poeple at tsc seem really nice about helping

[new welder guy]

http://www.tractorsupply.com/tools/power-tools-accessories/power-tools/power-saws/clarke-metal-cutting-band-saw-4-5-in-3901611

[SmokinPRanch]

http://www.tractorsupply.com/tools/power-tools-accessories/power-tools/power-saws/clarke-metal-cutting-band-saw-4-5-in-3901611

Looks like a fair machine. Take the time to go through it and make sure everything is aligned, tightened, clean, etc. and it should serve you well. These little saws work good if you don't push them past their limits.

Maybe throw them casters in the scrap bin and build a frame/cart for the saw to set on and add some rigidity to the stand. Be a good little welding project.

Going easy when starting a cut and some cutting fluid will stretch blade life.

Al

[nctox]

Although I'm not a big fan of Harbor Freight tools, I did buy the 4x6 metal bandsaw on sale for $199.99 minus the 20% coupon = $159.99 plus tax. I downloaded the product manuals for this one and the one at Northern Tools ($219 , if I remember right) and the HF saw seemed to be a smidgen more robust, 1hp vs. 1/3-1/2hp. the TSC saw is 500w (appx 3/4hp, I think).
SmokinP's advice is right on about the stand that comes with the saw. Mine is rather flimsy, but once assembled it's ok. I have made a couple of dozen cuts on the HF saw and it is exactly what I expected. Cuts smoothly, and adjustments seem easy to make.
One thing I realized only after buying it, is that when cutting at 45 degrees, the stock can extend only appx 1 1/2' past the blade. unless you use a spacer to move the stock aft. You might check that out on the TSC saw. It makes for two cuts instread of one, and some waste. But you only get what you pay for, sometimes.

Good luck with whatever you decide on.

[snakesaver]

hello gentleman; im pretty sure HF sells a portable bandsaw as does milwaukee,etc,etc. HF is if you dont do much but i try to buy quality whenever it fits my budget and the 'ol lady allows it.;)

[whateg0]

The portable was $75 or so in a recent flyer.

As far as cutting at different angle's goes, I bolted the fence at 90* and once it was purty durned close, I haven't moved it at all. If I want to cut an angle, I use a jig that allows the workpiece to rotate at the end of the fence nearest the blade. I have fixed jigs for 30* and 45* and an adjustable one for other angles. I also use wedges of wood for short runs.

And to combat the clamp tilting and so that the only contact is at the bottom which causes some pieces to want to rise or vibrate (I use a single pitch 18TPI blade because much of what I cut is thin and 14TPI looses teeth.) I place a piece of pipe or round in between the clamp and the workpiece. This way as the clamp rises, the round piece just rolls upward a smidgen and pressure is maintained on the workpiece.

Dave

[new welder guy]

so is the hf chop saw a good saw or is it something that will not cut tru and last a couple mouths im starting to shy away from a band saw for the cost of the saw and the cost of the blids i feeel a chop saw is best for my needs right now

[newyork]

I bought a milwakee 14 inch from Northern tool for 199 and free shipping
good heavy duty saw go for it

[epjohnso]

I recently bought the HF Bandsaw, and it's worked fairly well cutting the square and round tubing 14ga and 11 ga stuff I've been working with recently. My prior experience was the tools from my welding class, and off course, the Community College has all these wonderful tools that you can't afford at home. What it did allow me to do was experiment with the Horizontal Bandsaw, the Chop saw, a handheld bandsaw, and a shear. Well, of course you can't cut tube of any type with the shear, but overall there was no comparison to cuts made between a bandsaw and the chopsaw.
For the chopsaw, no matter how hard I tried, going exceptionally slowly (letting the saw do the work), the saw tends to push the stock away from the blade, and I kept getting these sort of curved cuts. 90 degree cuts are fine, but 30 or 45 cuts were miserable, I ended up having to cut the stock long, and then grind it on the big sanding disc machine to make it 45, or I had the gaps, which tended to burn through. The bandsaw didn't have this problem - of course, as I said this was a $1000+ unit, with coolant, hydraulic lift and close, etc.
So, I knew I wanted a bandsaw - just didn't have the cash for the big one!
I also considered a Sears and Jet, and decided if I get that much into projects I'll consider one of those saws.
So far, I'm not disappointed in the HF saw. Made lots of cuts for several projects with the standard shipping blade, but I bought a better bi-metallic blade based on others advice. I'm still using the standard blade, figuring to change it out when it's totally toothless - It has lost about 1/3 of it's teeth, but still cuts fairly well. Some adjustments out of the box, but nothing that's unexpected. I did set the tension real high as someone suggested, but the motor wouldn't start sometimes - backed it off, and haven't had that issue.

I have a good Delta wood cutting band saw, but didn't want to mess it up with the metal shavings and stuff - and the HF was a good choice. I think it will definitely last for the projects I have planned. I have also reviewed some of the mods other people have made, such as coolant and better stand, but I'm not sure after using it, they'll be worth the trouble. I think if I got more into heavier stock, like 1/4 inch or so, I think those would be good considerations. I also like a nice tight fit, yes for my welds too. I have a 12 inch sanding disc which I can set at 45 to make the butt joints for my mitered corners fit real well, and rarely have burn through for the tight fitting joints.

I did get my saw for $151 - $189 with 20% off coupon. I don't think the clerk was suppose to give me the 189 price and 20% off, but I don't think it matters to them.

EPJOHNSO
-------------------------------------------------------------
HH187
Gas operation
HF 4x6 Bandsaw
lots of grinders and sanding discs

But not enough clamps or 45/90 degree angle magnets yet-based on someone's comments.

[nctox]

I too bought the 4x6 metal bandsaw from HF. I was somewhat apprehensive about my choice, but with the 20% off the $189 sale price, I figured it was worth the chance. I have cut 2x2x1/8, up to 1/2 flat stock without a problem. I did break one of the HF bi-metal blades, but replaced it with a Morse bi-metal and it is still going strong. I replaced the thick grease in the gear box with 140 wt gear oil, like the owners manual specifies. I also built a stronger and higher stand for the saw. The flimsy one it came with was holding up OK after I got it bolted together, but it wasn't tall enough to use with any of my roller stands.
I wouldn't rely on this saw to make a living, but for a weekend hobbyist, it is all I need.
Below is a pic of the stand. Nothing fancy like some seem here and other forums, but OK for me. I replaced the small casters (in the pic) with 4" wheels. Easier to roll around. The trapazoidal shape of the sides are actually more true and square than the pic looks. LOL:D

[SidecarFlip]

I envision the Hardon Fright bandsaw being made by some kid casting parts in a pit in the back of his hut........:D

I have one too so I'm guilty as well. The motors are junk, you need to replace it with a good domestic made motor with some starting torque.

Get good varible pitch, pre welded, hard back blades, like Lennox or Starrett or Irwin from Enco or MSC (you can get the bandsaw there as well, shipped to your door).

I modified mine with real sealed roller bearings in the band wheel hubs and filled the gearcase with synthetic grease. It's cut a ton of structural and DOM tubing. It actually cuts square but (mine has a stop adjustment that needed set with a square the first time) if you want any angle other than 90 degrees, you need to use a protractor to align the fence to the backstop angle, the scale attached to the bed is wacko.

I think I paid about 120 bucks for mine. I also have a Kalamazoo cold saw but I prefer the cheap band saw because it's less messy.

Lowes has a real nice Delta vertical, 3 speed band saw on a floor stand for around 350 bucks. It will cut metal with just a blade change and comes with a fence.

I have the Lowes/Delta abrasive belt/disc grinder/finisher and it's a great machine for deburring and chamfering edges prior to welding or removing rust.

Again, I get my blades and abrasive belts/discs at eith Enco or MSC. Much cheaper and the UPS man delivers them.

[GilaSlim]

I envision the HF bandsaw being made by some kid casting parts in a pit in the back of his hut...:D

Flip, sounds like you remember "The Gang of Four" and the "Cultural Revolution" where they shut down most or all the commercial steel mills and had people making all their steel in back-yard operations. The stuff wasn't fit for making garbage cans. During that period, Time magazine had an issue with photos of the back-yard mills. After the Gang were deposed and executed, the real steel mills were reopened.

Just one of many reasons I try to avoid Chinese products.

[epjohnso]

One item the NCTOX mentioned, was setting the fence at 90 degrees. I did the samething - got the saw set at 90, then made a few "angle guide jigs" to get 45 & 30 degree cuts. I also extended away from the guide about 1 1/2 inches, because as someone else mentioned, the end of the stock being cut will hit the guide on the saw. When using the guide, it just fits over the existing fence, and then the clamp tightens up against it, to hold it in place. For my initial guides I made them out of 2x8 wood stock, because it's what I had handy, but eventually, I want to make them out of 10 gauge sheet stock. Just haven't gotten around to buying that yet.

So, instead of setting the fence for angle cuts - at least for common angle cuts, you just slip the guide into place and clamp up against it. I've included some pics of what I did - by the way, this isn't my idea, the community college where I took my welding classes has these jigs - made out of metal - very heavy metal!

[BC Iron works]

my grizzly works great and not made in china

[SidecarFlip]

Without reading the whole thread, I cut hundreds of pounds of mild steel and stainless rounds as well as structural shapes in various thicknesses (gage) and I've always used a horoziontal band saw. I have 2. One is a cheapo Clarke that I built a more substantial base for and one is an expensive Miluwaukee. Both do the same job. The Milwaukee is built to last, the China saw isn't. I upgraded the China saw with roller bearings in the bandwheels, a quality Marathon single phase motor and Timken guidewheels. Both cut a straight kerf and both cut angles well. If you buy a China saw and you plan on cutting angles, use a protractor to set the fence. The Chinese aren't too good with their angle scales.

The Miluwaukee has a hydraulic dampened downfeed and flood coolant, both desireable but not necesaary if you pay attention to feed rates and don't skimp on blades. The blade makes the saw and contrary to another posters remarks, cutting different gages of materials requires distinct tooth pitches. I try to use variable pitch blades all the time. I also buy the best available hard back or bi-metal bandsaw blades. Carbon back blades don't last. I know. I've tried Starrett and Nicholson and Lennox and I have the best life with Lennox. They aren't cheap but they last, especially in alloys.

Finally, if you buy a China saw, plan on replacing the motor with a more substantial motor, preferrably a capacitor start/induction run motor. The China motors are wimpy and turn into toast quickly and stink up the shop.:eek:

[rayc]

hey BC yeh i know tiwan is so much better????

[epjohnso]

BC Iron works, Anytime your ready to part with that great looking saw, (especially if it's for $150.00), let me know.

Of course, it's all about the utility we have for the tool. If I needed the quantity and precision a saw like that could provide, I would have gotten that one too - I like Grizzly tools. Just in my case, I didn't see the point in the difference between the Grizzly 4x6, or the Sears model, or the Jet model, and I considered all of them. Just when I looked at the 300-500 cuts per year I'd need it for, just didn't seem worth it.

[SidecarFlip]

I was going to mention that any machine sold by Drizzley Grizzly is made is some foreign land. That's not all bad so long as you know that going in.

I'm not really fond of the Grizzly stuff because mosyt of what they sell is home shop stuff, not production quality machines, b ut for what it is, it's a pretty good bargain, so long as you realize it's limitations.

Case in point, I own a Dashin Prince Taiwan made 16 x 60 geared head engine lathe that will run right beside my LeBlond Servo Shift for accuracy and deflection on heavy cuts. Of course I had to refit the Prince with a real 220/3 motor and drain the soy oil lubricant out of the gearbox and replace it with some quality Shell spindle oil but aside from those relatively inexpensive upgrades, it's a fine, very accurate machine. It's all meehanite castings and hardened bedways and it has the bulk of the LeBlond at less than half the price.

[SidecarFlip]

my grizzly works great and not made in china

.............I know it wasn't produced in any land that has the Stars and Stripes flying above it......:eek:

Again, realize the limitations. The Grizzly will never be a Kalamazoo nor will it be a Roll-in and it will never last as long under regular use either.

Grizzly's stuff reminds me of Lagun. Lagun (Dhinese) bought a Bridgeport Series I, exported it to China and proceeded to copy every part. They built a complete Bridgeport clone and eventually put Bridgeport out of business. Bridgeport was bought out by Hardridge but not at the preservation of hundreds of jobs.

While Lagun is a good machine, I still prefer the Bridgeport Mills and that's what I run.

[BC Iron works]

i wanted a ellis but for less money
i got the saw and sander (both made in taiwan)
roller table moble base for saw and extra blades
and sand paper

[SidecarFlip]

I think I'd be repainting that Philco in the background and selling it. It's an antique. If it still works it's worth more than your Grizzley saw........

Machines in my shop are bolted down or sitting on vibration pads because most are way too heavy to move around.

I'll trade my Delta for your Griz......:D

[SidecarFlip]

Flip, sounds like you remember "The Gang of Four" and the "Cultural Revolution" where they shut down most or all the commercial steel mills and had people making all their steel in back-yard operations. The stuff wasn't fit for making garbage cans. During that period, Time magazine had an issue with photos of the back-yard mills. After the Gang were deposed and executed, the real steel mills were reopened.

Just one of many reasons I try to avoid Chinese products.

I do. I'm in my 'twilight years' or so my wife tells me. I still look at young lasses and have lecherous thoughts......:D

[Ironman50]

Check www.utilitybandsaw.com . They have various band saw machine selections. The price lists and the product specifications are provided in that site.

[SidecarFlip]

In as much as the OP was 2009, the original saw is probably worn out........:D

[gnewby]

For exhaust pipe I would recommend the chop saw. If you try using a band saw you better be standing right there with it as it cuts through the outer edge or else it will try cutting too fast and ruin the blade. The chop saw you can use to cut the exhaust tubing like hot butter plus use it to dress the outside of the pipe.

[MagGeorge]

Select from a variety of band saw machines at www.utilitybandsaw.com .