View Full Version : 115/220 vs 120/240 ???
eddie
08-28-2009, 08:04 AM
First of all what's the difference here? I also see 230....???
As it applies to plasma cutters, do you toggle up or down depending on the thickness of cut?
thx
Zrexxer
08-28-2009, 08:28 AM
http://www.hobartwelders.com/weldtalk/showthread.php?t=34912
ptsideshow
09-01-2009, 06:35 AM
First of all what's the difference here? I also see 230....???
As it applies to plasma cutters, do you toggle up or down depending on the thickness of cut?
thx
You use the amperage control on the machine!
Biggest thing is what is the line voltage in you local area.
110/220v
115/230v
120/240v
As in Detroit, the public lighting dept generates an assortment of voltages not because it wants to but, because of equipment (old, breakdowns, problems and grounds through out the system). Had a meter hooked up all the time it varied from 98 volts to 127 volts on a good day:eek:
If I remember correctly at 97 volts computers will quit working as the voltage from the power pack falls below what it needs to function properly. Same with any and all electrical equipment.
Low voltage will result in lower voltage from transformers, Higher voltage will result in Higher output.
A brown out/low volts, a bright out/high volts.
One time we had a spike to around 150volts popped a couple of light bulbs. Computers don't like spikes either.
The point being that the equipment is designed to work in those voltage selections. So they only have to make one model that covers the country.
:D
usmcpop
09-01-2009, 08:36 AM
I thought this was rather good:
One thing where things might get a bit confusing is the
different numbers people bandy about for the voltage of
a circuit. One person might talk about 110V, another 117V
or another 120V. These are all, in fact, exactly the same
thing... In North America the utility companies are required
to supply a split-phase 240 volt (+-5%) feed to your house.
This works out as two 120V +- 5% legs. Additionally, since there
are resistive voltage drops in the house wiring, it's not
unreasonable to find 120V has dropped to 110V or 240V has dropped
to 220V by the time the power reaches a wall outlet. Especially
at the end of an extension cord or long circuit run. For a number
of reasons, some historical, some simple personal orneryness,
different people choose to call them by slightly different numbers.
This FAQ has chosen to be consistent with calling them "110V" and
"220V", except when actually saying what the measured voltage will
be. Confusing? A bit. Just ignore it.
One thing that might make this a little more understandable
is that the nameplates on equipment often show the lower (ie: 110V
instead of 120V) value. What this implies is that the device
is designed to operate properly when the voltage drops that
low.
208V is *not* the same as 240V. 208V is the voltage between
phases of a 3-phase "Y" circuit that is 120V from neutral to any
hot. 480V is the voltage between phases of a 3-phase "Y"
circuit that's 277V from hot to neutral.
In keeping with 110V versus 120V strangeness, motors intended
to run on 480V three phase are often labelled as 440V...